Bike Maintenance Routine - What's Yours?

Jul 29, 2015 at 02:17 AM

I've admittedly always been pretty bad at routine maintenance, but hearing Bruce describe his normal routine -- which sounds crazy! -- I realized that my schedule is woefully inadequate. With lots of new members, I realized I'm probably not alone.

So, what's your maintenance routine? What do you do daily/weekly/monthly/etc? Who among us is OCD, and who is laissez faire? And, seriously, how can I keep my gear from looking like !$&@?

eloy

Jul 29, 2015 at 03:04 AM

In this exact order, except I remove/skip any steps depending on time...

every so often: car wash
sometimes before the car wash: degreaser
then frame gets orange wipes
then it is wiped with paper towels
absolutely anything and everything that pivots or has a spring gets Tri-Flow, including the chain. Tri-Flow is magic and it is your friend -- this is the only step I hardly ever skip
often wipe the chain then apply some white lighting clean ride
done.

Looks like a lot, but it takes about 10 minutes, counting the ride to and from the car wash.

air in tires, whenever really, but usually Friday nights and Tuesdays (twice a week)

whenever needed, bar tape, cables, brake pads, tires, chains, shifters, derailleurs, hubs, or other parts are adjusted or exchanged, 98.5% of the time by me at home.

ian ellis

Jul 29, 2015 at 03:31 PM

Before each ride - Pump tires

Regularly (every week or 2 max in good weather) - Clean frame and parts with cleaner/polish product (motorex, etc). Check Di2 battery, (charge if necessary).
Check chain stretch (change if necessary), otherwise degrease chain (just by hand with a rag), oil and wipe off excess. Dash of oil to all pivots.
Check shifting and adjust if necessary (not necessary with Di2)

Annually - Change brake cables.

After a dry ride - check tires for bad cuts (change), check brake pads (change if necessary)

When - returning from a wet ride: Immediately wipe down the bike. Then within 24-36 hours: as per dry ride + a proper clean, polish, deep clean of chain (one of those bath things) and drive train. Good lube of all pivots.
If this is my race bike (check for water in frame and drain if necessary). Re-grease ceramic BB.
If this is my winter hack (steel) then additionally remove and re-grease seat rails, seat post, stem, full BB strip and refit, Re-grease of pedals.

The above is a bit of a pain, but less of a pain than missing a or race group ride because your bike has a flat, or low battery, or hardly any brake pads.
It is less of a pain than having a seized seatpost.
It is also less of a pain than being ridiculed and abused for being the person on a group ride with a bike that emits a hideous squeak from somewhere.

Bruce van-Schalkwyk

Jul 29, 2015 at 03:45 PM

Before I swing my leg over the top tube, every ride, check tightness of front and rear quick release. Pick the bike up and spin the crank, make sure the chain is smooth, it's in the small ring (I live on a hill), the rear brake works and garmin is picking up the magnet.

The easiest, quickest thing to do is hit the chain with lube while running the crank backwards - lean the bike against something so the pedals don't hit. Squirt the entire chain as it runs over the cassette. Get a rag - old t-shirts cut up, sheets that you don't use anymore - and hold it on the chain, below or above the chainstay, and continue turning the crank. Sometimes the chain wants to pop off, so go easy.

When I've done a couple of rotations, I use both hands on the chain and rub each link.

That's good to get the gunk off, keep the chain lubed, but get rid of the excess. Things get quieter, the chain looks good. Do this the night before a race, or the night before the last training ride before a race or long ride.

May want to use medical gloves because of the grease. Certainly have one of those sponges in the bathroom with the green side to scrub the hell out of your hands. While I think it's sexy you've got grease under your nails, USAC says I'm .01% in the city who does.

Me? Yes, then I use a couple of q-tips and swab each link, push it through, pull it out. What, you don't have Netflix? This will drop grease crud onto the ground, so wipe it up or put newspaper down. Or do it in the back yard. Yeah, right!

Then I remove the rear wheel, put it on my lap, and floss the cassette with a thin rag, the spacing between each ring. Until it shines. With the wheel removed, you get a chance to clean the seat tube and wipe down the brake pads, remove the build-up between the fins, if yours have them. Clean the wheel rim.

When someone rides behind me, they say, 'new chain'? Yes, new chain.

At home: windex, green degreaser, armor all, turtle wax. Plastic loves car wax. Tires love armor all, though the first 3 minutes on the road are a little slippery. Don't put it on your saddle, you'll slide off.

Extras for when it's raining.

Squirt the jockey wheels and hold a rag against each one as you spin the crank.

Oil the springs on the RD and FD and move them back and forth. Wipe them down.

Remove the wheels and clean the tabs - dirt can cause a terrible squeak you'll find only after you try to fix your bottom bracket.

JohnMalcolmson

Jul 29, 2015 at 04:20 PM

ian ellis said:

Check chain stretch (change if necessary), otherwise degrease chain (just by hand with a rag), oil and wipe off excess. Dash of oil to all pivots.

 < If you don't have one of these, they're magic. Diligent chain measuring extends the life of your cassette, rd pulleys and chain rings. 
Those with aero seatposts, it's worth getting a rubber sleeve for where the post hits the frame to stop water getting in the seat tube/BB. 
Lastly, check internal routing/Di2 weather seals and resist the urge to power wash your bike, ever.

Dan Reiners

Jul 29, 2015 at 04:36 PM

So much OCD here.

Adam, I am on the lazier end of the spectrum with you. Car wash (which I learned from Eloy), when I am disgusted with my bike or I am coming back from a particularly muddy CX race. Then relube chain, and pivots of derailleurs.

Occasionally degrease the drive train with Scrubbing Bubbles (most awesome thing ever). Then relube the drive train parts.

I keep some Lemon Pledge around to polish the frame, but it doesn't get it that often.

When necessary I check brake pads, tires, cables, chain and other parts that wear quickly, and replace as necessary (trying to buy when on-sale or at discount and stockpile since they don't take too much space and don't degrade).

This is all very casual (no q-tips) and no set schedule.

That being said, right now the CX bike is getting a massive overhaul (New: tires, tubes, cables, jockey wheels, chain, brake pads, bar tape, pedal cleats; rebuild/repack: BB, pedals, headset, hubs and seatpost), which is all necessary after neglecting that maintenance at the end of the last season because of injury.

eloy

Jul 29, 2015 at 05:04 PM

what Dan said.

I list them as bullets, but attitude is totally suave relax. I am somewhat lazy, and it is done at my convenience.

Ultimately, it doesn't take much effort, but it does take some, to keep a bike in good working order.

Chain checkers are a ridiculous way for companies to sell you more chains than you'll ever need.

All my current cassettes are about 8 years old, never used a chain checker, never had an issue with cassete wear.

Jules

Aug 04, 2015 at 12:52 AM

My favorite trick is a bit of electrical tape on the seatpost just where it meets the frame. I can tell instantly if the post is beginning to slip and spare myself the ensuing knee issues.

Other trickery:

- Get yourself an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for chains & cassettes (thanks Adam!)
- Bit of dish soap between the brake pad and brake shoe make replacing them a breeze

eloy

Aug 04, 2015 at 01:05 AM

Jules said:

- Bit of dish soap between the brake pad and brake shoe make replacing them a breeze

I actually put a dab of grease, on the inside of the pad (the part the slides in, obvs) works like the awesomeness!

Dan Reiners

Aug 23, 2015 at 05:39 PM

Jules said:

- Bit of dish soap between the brake pad and brake shoe make replacing them a breeze

It makes braking in rainy races fun too. Who doesn't love BUBBLES!

mugwump

Aug 24, 2015 at 12:16 AM

Jules,
How big an ultrasonic cleaner?

Lt. Dan,
Scrubbing bubbles? Is that better than degreaser? Why?

Dan Reiners

Aug 24, 2015 at 12:30 AM

Scrubbing bubbles is awesome because:

a) it works exactly the same as degreaser.
2) the bubbles get into everywhere so it can clean places that are harder to reach so you don't use all your Q-tips like Bruce.
III) It is easy to find in every Duane Reade or supermarket.
* Significantly cheaper than bicycle specific degreaser (oz per oz cost).

Finally you can use it to clean your bathroom after you've cleaned your bike in the tub (potentially saving your marriage).

Jules

Aug 24, 2015 at 01:07 AM

mugwump said:

Jules,
How big an ultrasonic cleaner?

Large toaster. It's juuust wide enough for a 28 tooth cog to sit flat.

mugwump

Aug 24, 2015 at 02:41 AM

Jules said:

mugwump said:

Jules,
How big an ultrasonic cleaner?

Large toaster. It's juuust wide enough for a 28 tooth cog to sit flat.

brand? Model?

mugwump

Aug 24, 2015 at 02:43 AM

Dan Reiners said:

Scrubbing bubbles is awesome because:

a) it works exactly the same as degreaser.
2) the bubbles get into everywhere so it can clean places that are harder to reach so you don't use all your Q-tips like Bruce.
III) It is easy to find in every Duane Reade or supermarket.
* Significantly cheaper than bicycle specific degreaser (oz per oz cost).

Finally you can use it to clean your bathroom after you've cleaned your bike in the tub (potentially saving your marriage).

https://youtu.be/LsicyXCITHA

Dan Reiners

Aug 24, 2015 at 01:27 PM

Clean bathroom = Happy wife

Happy wife = Happy life

because of transitive properties therefore: clean bathroom = happy life.

Thierry Bonnaire

Aug 24, 2015 at 02:04 PM

My brain is going to burst Dan.

Jules

Aug 25, 2015 at 12:44 AM

mugwump said:

Jules said:

mugwump said:

Jules,
How big an ultrasonic cleaner?

Large toaster. It's juuust wide enough for a 28 tooth cog to sit flat.

brand? Model?

Amazon history to the rescue

Dan Reiners

Aug 25, 2015 at 01:27 PM

Jules said:

Amazon history to the rescue

Do you use that with the gun cleaning solution or the jewelry cleaning solution?

Jules

Aug 25, 2015 at 03:38 PM

Standard degreaser

mugwump

Aug 25, 2015 at 06:41 PM

Jules said:

mugwump said:

Jules said:

mugwump said:

Jules,
How big an ultrasonic cleaner?

Large toaster. It's juuust wide enough for a 28 tooth cog to sit flat.

brand? Model?

Amazon history to the rescue

That thing is huge! So 'Merican of you. Goes with the Hummer I guess. the investment in degreaser must be significant as well.

I'm looking into jewelry/dvd ultrasonics. Deep enough for an 11sp cassette with a 28t cog. They seem to run a good bit cheaper. Should be able to fit a chain in as well. And bearings, too. Though maybe not all at once.

Jules

Aug 25, 2015 at 09:26 PM

^it's the size of a toaster.

mugwump

Aug 25, 2015 at 09:37 PM

A 2.5 liter tank is a pretty big toaster.

how about something that fits in more NYC homes?
like: Basket Dimensions: 6"L x 5"W x 1 3/4" Deep

Image: http://www.brookstone.com/webassets/product_images/700x700/606376p_alt3.jpg

David Yang

Aug 26, 2015 at 02:10 PM

My wife has one of those for her jewelry. I'll fill it with my grungy chains and cassettes and report back on how it worked out. It might be a while since my wifi doesn't quite reach the doghouse...

Craig Zolan

Aug 27, 2015 at 05:02 PM

I was actually wondering about that. Would it be grungy after bike parts such that you wouldn't want to use it for jewelry afterwards?

mugwump

Aug 27, 2015 at 05:21 PM

Craig Zolan said:

I was actually wondering about that. Would it be grungy after bike parts such that you wouldn't want to use it for jewelry afterwards?

I don't see how it would matter.

but I'm happy for Yang to try.

Jules

Aug 27, 2015 at 08:21 PM

Craig Zolan said:

I was actually wondering about that. Would it be grungy after bike parts such that you wouldn't want to use it for jewelry afterwards?

Yeah. There is a plastic tray that sits in the bath and it seems to collect grease. I'm sure you could degrease it as well but where does it end?

Adam

Aug 27, 2015 at 10:58 PM

When this enters your tool kit therein it shall forever stay. Not back to wifey. I bought my most recent one for $60 on Ebay.

You don't need to put anything other than your chain in as wiping your cassette and chainrings does the same thing and is quicker. For chains you *need* this as it is the only way to clean between plates. Watching your chain take a bath is mesmerizing so in the long run you will save money by canceling your Netflix.

Jules

Aug 28, 2015 at 12:34 AM

MESMERIZING

ThomasChen

Aug 23, 2022 at 01:51 AM

hi guys! so... my aluminium seatpost is stuck to my carbon frame... it started to move a bit after I spray wd-40 on it, and using the hot-cold water method from GCN. but currently it's only moving up 2cm/day hahaha... also i bought penetrating oil which some blogs recommended... in the mean time, anyone knows a few tricks to unstuck a seatpost? thanks!

mugwump

Aug 24, 2022 at 02:12 PM

ThomasChen said:

hi guys! so... my aluminium seatpost is stuck to my carbon frame... it started to move a bit after I spray wd-40 on it, and using the hot-cold water method from GCN. but currently it's only moving up 2cm/day hahaha... also i bought penetrating oil which some blogs recommended... in the mean time, anyone knows a few tricks to unstuck a seatpost? thanks!

Ouch!

I've read that Coca-Cola can disintegrate corrosion bonds, but I don't know if its safe for carbon.

I unstuck an aluminum post from a steel frame, but I could use the frame for leverage. Not sure if that would work with carbon.

Here are some articles with advice I've seen before:

https://www.velonews.com/gear/making-it-work-get-that-post-out/

https://www.velonews.com/gear/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-permanent-seatposts-and-what-to-do-about-them/

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/seized-seatposts-and-stems