It's certainly more expensive, but the name brand bleed kit is worth the money. I had a cheap amazon special bleed kit for my Sram brakes and it worked well enough on the first bleed, less so the next time I used it, and even less so the time after that (seems like the rubber in the syringes is drying out so the seal is becoming worse and worse). I ended up replacing it with a Sram kit and the user experience and quality are better all around.

Also, spray bottles with isopropyl alcohol (for Shimano) and water (for Sram) to clean up any dripping is helpful. Beyond that, throw the bike in a stand and prep everything before you get going and it becomes a a pretty straight forward, simple process after doing it a few times.

Honestly any set of tools for under $100 is pretty solid in this day and age!

Also I'm assuming this non-braided hose cutter is good enough and I shouldn't spend money on the "pro" tool, even though it says "pro" and which is like catnip for suckers like me?

https://shop.sram.com/collections/tools/products/hose-cutter

https://shop.sram.com/collections/tools/products/pro-hose-cutter

As far as hose cutter, ironically the cheap Amazon one I bought like 5 years ago is going strong and are sharp as ever. That you can probably get away without name brand but boy that pro one is shiny

Nothing much to recommend, other than: yes, you will need two entire sets, as you can't mix them. Label them. 

DOT fluid can be corrosive but is water soluble, so just have water close by when working with it. Also DOT fluid kinda goes bad after prolong air contact, so most manufacturers make little 4oz bottles that are basically one and done. 

For both, a properly setup bleed will likely last years.  

Not that anyone asked, but if anyone is running a microspline cassette: Shimano updated their 12spd cassettes from 10-45t to 9-45t. I figured with the update I can run a "road" gear ratio on the top end.

With a 1x 42t chainring:
- 9t gear ratio is just under a 52x11 equivalent (4.67 vs 4.73)
-- 9-11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-33-39-45T
- 10t sits between a 52x12/13 (4.20 vs 4.00/4.33)
-- 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36-40-45T

It is a super minor change since I use the 52x11 almost exclusively during at park races and state line sprints, but did not get along with the 50x11 (4.55) I tried a few years ago. The jumps between gears are not ideal on either cassette range, so I consider it a wash.

And in typical bike standards fashion I needed yet another lockring tool since the 9t cog diameter is smaller and the lockrings have the teeth on the outer rather than the traditional inner.

I had to remove one chain link for proper tension and b-screw adjustment, but when all said and done the 9t spins about as smooth as the 10t in my opinion. Shifting is fine on the stand, but will need to see how it runs out on the roads (when it's not covered with ice and salt and sand).

Bonus points, the XT level 9-45 cassette is 100g lighter than the SLX level 10-45 I originally built up (420g vs 518g including lockrings). I couldn't bring myself to spring for the XTR level cassette at double the price which would have probably saved yet another 50-100g.