So I got my second powertap up and running after a just over a year of procrastinating and not training with power metrics (stupid me).

Now I'm ready to send off my first power tap pro hub back to Saris, but before I do, I'd figure I would throw this out here before I ship it.

Gear stopped giving me wattage numbers. it would give me heart rate information for about a minute or so, then shut off completely.

Prior to this happening, I had replaced the battery in the computer.

Could there be another battery that has to be replaced in the hub itself, and if so, can a totatly inept non-wrench type like me get to it without risking making a fatal move that would permantly and totally damage the hub?

Any help would be apprceciated. Opinions about my mechanical non-inclinations should be withheld. (or not)

Thanks,

Rick

Yeah, there are two little watch batteries in the hub. You open up the hub with the hub cap wrench that came with the PowerTap.

Hub cap wrench:
http://www.cycleops.com/en/products/accessories/powertap-accessories.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images_norating.tpl&product_id=201&category_id=14

It's really very easy to replace the batteries if you have the wrench.

Great,

I have the wrench that came with my set. I'll try it.

I really appreciate the feedback.

Hope that's it, but if it isn't then at least I know I tried.

Have a good one.

You may have to re-pair the hub with the computer when you are done.

Speaking of sad... What's the verdict on neck warmers/gaiters? Who makes the best one?

Posted By: Jules RoazenSpeaking of sad... What's the verdict on neck warmers/gaiters? Who makes the best one?

Grow a beard.

Tried that. I'll be retired before it's thick enough to stop a hungry mosquito, let alone keep me warm...

My bike is making a sort of dull honking sound that **I think** is either coming from the bottom bracket area or the seatpost. I've never heard a sound like it coming from my bike before, which makes me worry its a frame problem (crabon frame, or course). It almost sounds like a goose or something. Definitely a dull rubbing kind of sound more than a creak or a click, though I can't tell what is rubbing on what.

Also, while I can't tell exactly where it's coming from, I can feel a vibration up the seat post that seems to coincide with the sound.

It's more pronounced when pedaling hard.
It's more pronounced when pedaling hard SEATED than standing.
If I pedal only with left leg I don't hear it. If I pedal only with right leg I do hear it.
It's getting worse. I've noticed it here and there for a few rides but today it was every pedal stroke of any force.

I don't even really know how to start trying to fix it. Should I pull cranks and regrease everything? Do a general overhaul and tightening of chainring bolts? Any ideas?

Posted By: Jules RoazenSpeaking of sad... What's the verdict on neck warmers/gaiters? Who makes the best one?

after trying everything, my favorite thing was this cheap piece of crap from the dollar store. imagine a loosely knit acrylic scarf knit as an open ended tube. i pull up to cover my nose when the going gets really tough (20s), and the knit is loose enough that i can breathe through it much better then neoprene stuff. plus it has a pom pom in the back.

Ryan,
So many places it could be. If it's more pronounced seated than standing, I generally would not think it the bottom bracket and focus on your seat post. But then, if there's any noise at all when standing, that would seem to eliminate the seatpost.

Why not start by greasing the easy stuff and then moving to the hard stuff? I'd start with your pedals. they're easy to check and get off. Take them off, check the axle action, grease the threads, screw back in. then check seat post. mark it, pull it, clean off the old grease, pull the clamp and clamp bolt and grease both, then grease the seat tube and put back in the post. If you can grease the saddle rail clamp bolts without dissassembling the seatpost or altering your saddle position, do that next. Then, if there's still creaking, move on to the bottom bracket. I assume the chainring fixing bolts are tight, but all the same check 'em, too.

Check behind you to make sure no geese are in-tow (they may be homing-on on that tasty-looking trout on your forearm).

My recent honking/sqeaking might have been caused by my rear axle not having been seated correctly.

But, I'd go with JP's suggestion of checking the pedal first. I had the honk/sqeak last year and the venerable Mr. Purdy thought it was my BB, which he tightened and said it "yeah, it was a little bit loose, so I tightened it". But the squeak persisted. My regular mechanic immediately went to the pedal and that squelched the squeak.

If that isn't it, maybe check your rear hub tension.

Good luck.

I read the first sentence and actualol'd in a lecture

Best of luck, big guy

It's so wrong of me to say, but that shit is fucking funny. Honking? There should be a hall of fame for this stuff...

That said, I really hope it's just something loose that can be tightened or greased. The check-one-of-a-time method is a good one. I'd start with your seat - it could be as easy as a rail that's loose.

You could also throw it on a trainer and have a friend aka teammate listen in various locales...

J

PS, oh, and be sure you don't have a Canada Fucking Goose suck in your rear derailleur - those fuckers can't be trusted.

Damn Mattie!

Um, is that an icicle?

Cable housing against the frame. Brake pad against rim. Saddle rail torqueing in saddle. My best guess? Seat post needs lubing/trimming because it's rubbing inside the seat tube.

A few years ago something similar happened to me. I swore it was coming from the headset. I took everything apart, cleaned and regreased. It was still there. I pulled the cranks, took the bottom bracket apart cleaned/regreased/reassembled. Still there! FACK! Finally, someone recommended checking the QR skewers. I swapped skewers and lo and behold: squeak gone. I'd check those as well.

got something like that post-Catskills after soaking our "whips" in the driving rain. Think it was the bottom bracket. Would make a similar sound from the right crank under any sort of force. Didn't actually figure it out b/c I just removed everything to swap over to the Cannodale and haven't ridden since. Boooooo.

Yeah, mine started up after all that rain racing as well. In fact, my rig got poured on for hours the next weekend too at Tokeneke.

Well, I've done everything that ISN'T the bottom bracket and its still there. So I guess that's next.

Can anyone recommend a shop? Giving my dad my old race bike aka The Big Red Machine.

Jeff,

I don't have a shop to recommend for that but I'd say it's really easier than you think. You can get a bike box for free from a shop and get yourself some bubble wrap and tape. wrap all the tubes and the fork and secure it with the extra padding, tape the heck out of it, and you're good.

(it's not quite that simple, obviously, but you'll figure it out)

Of course if you're busy and you just don't wanna mess with it, that's understandable.

^heh.

Last winter I learned that my breath will freeze to my bears within 30seconds of being outside in -20F. For my commute, my beard will freeze to my fleece turtle.

anyone good with adjusting these things?
Luka's went out of adjustment...

Any one know what's up with Forte? The brand Performance seems to really be pushing now

They got 10 speed Carbon levers for 150 bucks, 380g.
Shimano DA carbon shifters: 450 $ 378g.

Forte carbon rear derailleur: 50$, 196g
Shimano " " " : 200$, 170g

seems like 1/4 of the price while keeping the weight equal, not sure about performance/ durability
Doesn't look like they equip any of their house brand bikes with it though

No breaks no fear. He's old enough for you have gotten him a brakeless IRO for his epic commutes by now.

Anyone?

I don't know this for sure, and I don't know if folks have had good or bad experiences with them, but I'd bet Dixon's on Union could take care of it.

umm, good idea

Guys,

Hopped on my road bike for the first time in a week or so and discovered my rear brake seems to have no return spring. Cables seem to be moving well, caliper lever is closed all the way, etc.

Any idea what's going on? I inspected it as best as I could but to my eye everything seems normal.

Some of the adjustment screws too tight on the calipers...spring jumped outside of resistance pin....Hard to say. Snap a pic and post it.