Jan 09, 2013 at 02:22 AM
Tito - buy caad10 with rival. You have SRAM already, right? That's the ticket.
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Jan 09, 2013 at 02:35 AM
Taiwan for the aluminum.
105 ids pretty damn good stuff. If I had current stuff I'd run it on my cx bike. I currently run 9 speed 105 for cx. Awesome stuff.
Spend on wheels.
105 ids pretty damn good stuff. If I had current stuff I'd run it on my cx bike. I currently run 9 speed 105 for cx. Awesome stuff.
Spend on wheels.
Jan 09, 2013 at 03:47 AM
I lerve you guys.
@Marc - thank you for the recap. Do you do separate funny voices for each person?
@Yacks - I do have some guilt about all this, 'cause my current C'dale is made in the USA and I feel like I'm selling out.
@Mike - I'm actually dying to get away from SRAM - I'm done with the whole 1-to-1 pull ratio.
@Eric - that is all the endorsement I need.
Jan 09, 2013 at 05:24 AM
My big problem is that I hate all the paint jobs. What were they thinking?
Jan 09, 2013 at 11:38 AM
buy a used european frame on ebay...and swap everything from old bike upgrading slowly.
Jan 09, 2013 at 02:22 PM
I'm with Perlberg. I'm sold on SRAM, and Rival is pretty much as good as Ultegra. I have two bikes, one with Force and one with Ultegra, and Ultegra doesn't match up well.
Jan 09, 2013 at 03:07 PM
FWIW:
i have a 2012 caad10 with rival and love it, with some caveats:
- the front shifter's plastic housing seems to slowly deform, eliminating the adjustable reach feature which functions by adjusting a cam that interacts with the plastic housing. i bought the bike in april 2012, had left shifter warrantied in July or so (SRAM customer service diagnosed the "deformed housing"). now, several months after the replacement with a brand new left shift lever, i notice that the lever seems to be creeping inward and defeating the adjustment cam as it did before. sigh. maybe i should shift less?
- i crashed and hit the right shifter and now it requires additional movement to engage the shift, especially at the outside of the cassette. of course, i did land on it, so i guess i'm lucky it works at all. in fact, maybe this speaks to its durability?
my girlfriend has the 2012 caad10 with 105, and it is much heavier than mine despite being smaller. granted, we have different wheels and i suspect mine are lighter, but haven't weighed them.
Jan 09, 2013 at 03:58 PM
My $.02
Shimano lasts forever
I've warrantied 5 Rival shifters, and yet my 9year old Dura Ace and 11 year old Tiagra is still working.
I love my Red shifters, but you can't get Red for everything.
Jan 09, 2013 at 04:32 PM
@WilliamDC: out of curiosity, what did you warranty them for? what years were they? i'd like to get a sense of what sort of inconveniences i can look forward to down the road and whether i should try to warranty these ones before the 1 year of free shop service/2 years of SRAM warranty expires
maybe i just like the rival shifters because the ones i had before that were Sora, haha...
Jan 09, 2013 at 05:24 PM
@brendan rigby
they either had the paddle snap off during normal shifting or the internals broke and wouldn't shift properly
My rivals were 08-12, all carbon/plastic dealies, not the first gen alloy ones (which, apparently, are more sturdy)
SRAM's saving grace is that they are super easy about warranties. basically, no questions asked as long as you go through a shop.
ride them until they break.
Jan 09, 2013 at 05:32 PM
I have what I believe is first-Gen Rival on my bike now (alloy), and those shifters are pretty tough. I've beat them
to crap and never had issues. what I don't like is the shifting action - I want the burlier pull ratio of Shimano. Plus I've had to suffer through William's warrantee pain, and I can't bear to be hurt like that again. I just...sob...can't.
Jan 09, 2013 at 06:32 PM
Can we get an badge for Supportive Embrace?
I need to give Tito's post one of those, STAT!
Jan 10, 2013 at 12:16 AM
I have been rocking a Sram red kit since it became available...Not sure how many years now 6? It is a much simpler design than Shimano...not as refined or smooth...but I have found it to be bombproof for me. The light weight brifters replaced shimano 9 speed anchors on the front of my handlebars. The sram brakes were never as good as shimano dura ace....they don't modulate as well. I replaced them with some TRP's because...well because they were black....I've lost my train of thought again.....
Jan 10, 2013 at 12:25 AM
If you can find Dura Ace 7800 and don't mind the antiquated look of the cables out front, the damn things are smooth, comfy, and definitely indestructible. Can't tell you how many things Ive run into and have hit them but they work perfectly.
Jan 10, 2013 at 01:15 AM
I loved my Red shifters. Yokozuna cables dramatically improved the shifting, but they don't last more than a season. At 50 bucks it seems worth it..
Jan 10, 2013 at 01:54 AM
Yokozuna cables rule. If you ride a lot, cables/housing should be replaced annually. Plus, you can generally find them online at places like treefort for $35-40. So much cheaper then Nokon, Gore, or shimano and better.
Jan 10, 2013 at 02:54 AM
Annually? replace cables every six months. Housing annually. (with gore you can go a year on one set of cables and housing). Nokon housing can last years, but replace cables every six months.
Jan 10, 2013 at 02:58 AM
Really? I go one to two years. Is it the Campy or that I swap bikes for training and racing. Or is it lack of wet rides?
Jan 10, 2013 at 04:08 AM
Regardless, your bike will shift better on shorter service intervals.
But I suspect it's both.
Jan 10, 2013 at 02:31 PM
in my limited experience, cables and housings seem on schedule to last a season or more. when they get grimy and hesitant, i restore smooth operation to my Shimano PTFE cables (the $40 stock-ish ones) by loosening the cable from the brake or derailleur, sliding the housing off of its normal spot on the cable and cleaning under it, applying a thin lubricant (pro-link or dry PTFE lube) to the areas that sit under the housings, and then moving the housings back into place. i was surprised to find how little crud worked its way in there after 6 months that included plenty of rainy rides. i found the shift and brake quality perfectly adequate after this operation. though maybe my expectations are low because the cables aren't yokozuna/gore to begin with.
gore ride-on is ridiculously low friction. i was adjusting my girlfriend's mom's front derailleur (that's what she said?) and could not maintain cable tension by hand because it kept slipping out of my fingers. i think i'll grab some of those when it comes time to replace the ones i currently have.
is anything other than Shimano housings available in orange? i want orange housings but it seems like all the high-end cables come only in boring colors.
Jan 10, 2013 at 02:54 PM
Jagwire comes in orangeBrendan Rigby said:is anything other than Shimano housings available in orange? i want orange housings but it seems like all the high-end cables come only in boring colors.
Jan 10, 2013 at 06:30 PM
Brendan,
Gore cables and housing are on the way out. Gore is discontinuing. Guess they were low friction to the public as well.
I'm bummed because I really like the stuff. I think you can get their housing in white, blue, red, black.
Jan 10, 2013 at 08:25 PM
Jan 10, 2013 at 08:40 PM
Yokozuna's rigid brake housing has problems with tight turns. Mark Purdy has a lot to say on that topic. My bike unfortunately has such a situation (a cable stop was placed too close to the head tube imho) and so Yokozunas don't work for me.
Jan 10, 2013 at 09:08 PM
I am going to order some Yokozuna's. Because it just sounds cool to say, "I ride a Spooky Skeletor with Yokozuna's.". The question is, white or smoke housing?
Jan 10, 2013 at 09:30 PM
White. I've never had a "tight turn" problem with the yokozuna. I basically go straight though.
Jan 11, 2013 at 12:53 AM
White. All the better contrast when your opponents start spitting blood.
Jan 12, 2013 at 07:05 PM
I dare you to try and get through this Zinn article. It's punishing to trudge through. I gave up.
http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/news/bright-future-for-disc-brakes-fades-briefly-under-a-coating-of-verona-mud_271112
http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/news/bright-future-for-disc-brakes-fades-briefly-under-a-coating-of-verona-mud_271112
Jan 13, 2013 at 02:40 AM
Basically, mud and organic brake matter are a bad mix. The pad material on rotor brake pads (as opposed to rim) is minimal. A lap or two of grit can eat brand new pads to the metal base. And then, you have no brakes.
Edwin Bull (Mr. Van Dessel) has been talking about this for two years. He had several occasions when pads wore to nothing in 40 minutes or less of racing.
THere's a chance that if you go with semi-metallic or sintered, you'll get more life. there's a chance that with hydraulics you'll get more life. However, semi-metallic or sintered will lose you modulation and possibly bite at low speeds. And with hydraulics, even if the pads wear evenly (they don't on cable-actuated), you could still eat through a set in less than the length of a cross race.
And yes, people who are salivating about road discs should be worried about this phenomenon.
Jan 13, 2013 at 04:56 AM
I wonder how disc brakes work so well in off-road motor sports.