Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

8105 comments · 108281 views
Neuvations are pretty darn good and reasonable with our discount.
They Boyds got more expensive when they went to the fatty rim.
450 is just one wheel.

Yeah, and I didn't notice that was the old narrow clearance style.

The November Rail52s are carbon clinchers for a decent price. Always heard scary heat explosion stories tho..., I wouldn't ride them in the mountains I guess (not that I ever do that), but with tubulars you never end up riding them to train at all b/c of flat worries, so they just sit around unused so much. I'm not sure which way i'll go next time I get some, T or C.

We had a Boyd deal?
Someone mentioning mentioning "tire pressure" again this decade...image
450 is just one wheel. Yeah, and I didn't notice that was the old narrow clearance style. The November Rail52s are carbon clinchers for a decent price. Always heard scary heat explosion stories tho..., I wouldn't ride them in the mountains I guess (not that I ever do that), but with tubulars you never end up riding them to train at all b/c of flat worries, so they just sit around unused so much. I'm not sure which way i'll go next time I get some, T or C.
Yikes, okay that puts it into a different perspective.  Maybe sell the old hubs, make some money back, and buy the new wheels?

And just my humble opinion, deep carbon rims and tubulars seem to go hand in hand, not so much with clinchers.

We had a Boyd deal?
Not really. They're willing to do group buy discounts.

For those rainy ay "emergencies"

http://ass-savers.com/

 

the prologo kappa that came with my caad10 creaks like an old barn door when i'm in the saddle.  which is most of the time i'm riding my bike.

i've already . . .

tightened every screw
lubricated the rails and where the reals go into the seat
removed, regreased, reseated, retorqued re-seatpost

any suggestions?  is 1 year the lifetime of a saddle?  how sad
What makes you so sure it's the saddle?  Have you taken it off, replaced it with another saddle, and the noise gone?  If you have not definitively done that, check:

QR skewers (both)
Pedals
BB
Seatpost/seatpost clamp junction
Headset
Stem/steerer junction




and chain ring bolts

I agree with Adam. The source of creaking is not always obvious. Ragot got rid of a creak by turning his front wheel around!

Sometimes it's as simple as a bottle cage bolt.
I nailed one by sawing my seatpost shorter.

...is 1 year the lifetime of a saddle?  how sad
Did you swap with the GF's saddle?
image
The worst kind of creak; existential creak.

Random note about the flouro-orange helmets and why they look so "normal" in pictures...

A day or so ago, Peter was in a magazine photoshoot sporting a grey and flouro orange onsie. Looking at the pictures, I noticed that the orange stripes looked totally NOT fluorescent. I mentioned this to the photographer and he said, it's one area where digital photography has trouble. It just can't capture those kinds of colors very well and so the retouchers would have to go to work before the images were printed.

Random note about the flouro-orange helmets and why they look so "normal" in pictures...

They look normal to the rest of us. 
This review sponsored by Ryan: http://www.artscyclery.com/reviews/RS260/RS260review.html
I think I found my next frame (should any tragedy befall my Spooky)......yes the welds are fat & ugly...but so are all of you !

http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/page/latest-news/?id=94553#.UcCTSJX6jFJ
CAAD10 at crazy club discount price not good enough for you Yacks? Or do you just like racing on ugly bikes?
He rejects Asian manufacturing.

I'm also considering a Rock Lob cx frame.  Heard great things and they're a lot less than other indie builders.

He who rejecteth the manufactures of Asia,
Rejecteth the kit of Champion Systems.
And so doing, Rejecteth Kissena. But lo, when
Racing, Wears His Contradictions for All to See
@twoyacks will surely appreciate....

The abundance of elements in the earth's crust - a ranking:

1. Oxygen
2. Silicon
3. Aluminum 
4. Iron 
5. Calcium
6. Sodium
7. Potassium
8. Magnesium
9. Titanium
10.  Hydrogen
11. Phosphorus
12. Manganese
13. Fluorine
14. Barium
15. Carbon 

#earthdontlie

(Stearnsy on fuego)
Back to gear, I have a new rear wheel and I can't screw the lockring on with a spacer. That requires me to adjust my derailleur, which means my race wheel shifting will be all messed up. Is there a way to measure what I need in order to have my two wheels have the cassette in the same spot other than through trial and error? Why don't all hubs have the same offset on the free hub body? (Other than for 9, 10 speed reasons)
you could take the spacer off on your race wheel, too.

Trial and error is what I find works best.  At this point, I have quite a collection of spacers.  However, you can probably call the hub manufacturers and ask them the width of their cassette bodies--this might take longer.  

And there is room for some imperfection in spacing--your upper pulley either floats or is thinner than the lower pulley.

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/friction-facts-bigger-pulleys-really-are-more-efficient

ZOMG!!!  TWO EXTRA WATTS!!!

image
Correction: 1.76watts

image
1.76 watts is worth about 3cm a second.  Or 260m an hour.
On a four-hour ride, that's over a kilometer saved.
If you were to ride the Tour de France as a time trial, it would be over 20km difference.

The shit is real.
I'm building up a track back next week and using the old set of wheels with the ancient tubulars from 1986 still glued onto them.

- After I take the old ones off, do I have to clean the inside of the rim?
- Glue or tape?
- What new tires do you recommend that don't cost $100+ each?