If you thought the Powercal was good advice...get a load of Ergottwheels

The Shimano's are lovely off the rack wheels.  For the kind of bank you are spending though you can get a custom set made.  I paid about $900 for my set up but I went with Alchemy hubs ($600 for the hubs alone) and Stans Alpha 340 rims (1280 gram wheel set)

You can build a set of wheels with White Industry hubs and really good rims for less than $700 that will be lighter than the Shimano's with 23 mm rims and tubeless ready.  Using standard spokes makes fixing them an afterthought should disaster befell them.   

Ragot bought wheels from Erik at Ergott Wheels too.  Before you pull the trigger, check out his page on Facebook and send him your budget and what you are looking for in a wheel set.  He will send you some options....My wheels are stiff enough, wicked light and they roll like buttah!

I love them.

Erik can build lighter stuff.

Is somebody pulling my leg?

I picked them up while a party was going on and hung out for a while. 

I made both trips coincide with a visit to my sister, 10 minutes away.

Plus if there is a problem, I just can bring them back myself.

I'll go to him for more in the future.

I rode today and feel confident that the minor skipping on the rear cassette will cease once the new chain gets worn in a bit. However, there was a significant (even alarming) amount of chain noise coming from my small chainring. Large chainring seemed ok. When I got home, I saw the dreaded sharks tooth profile on the small chainring. However, the wear seems to be localized to two groups of teeth that are oriented 180 deg apart. In particular, they seem to be on top of the chainring when the right (or left) crank is oriented horizontally (i.e., the position where maximum torque is applied). 

I could simply get a new chainring, but given my ambition to move to crank-based power meter I have an interim idea that I would appreciate opinions on. Namely, how about if I remove the small chain ring rotate 1/5 of a turn (70 deg) and reinstall. That would seem to put less worn teeth where the sharks teeth are currently situated.

Does this make sense? Has anyone experience with such a maneuver (or a 39 tooth Campy chain ring with 135 BCD to lend me for a couple of months).

Little chainring on two bikes I just looked at has no special shaping to facilitate shifting, nor special pins (as the big chainring does) to indicate a specific orientation.  Seems symmetrical enough...I say got for it and let us know how it turns out!

Joacquin, I think that pin is universal.  That pin (the one behind the crank arm, facing away from the frame) prevents the chain from getting jammed in between the crank arm and the chainring in the event that it shifts over the large chainring.  It also orients the chainring and the shift ramps.  

The pins facing the frame on the big chainring give the chain something to be pushed onto sideways by the derailleur as the derailleur moves outboard.  You want these to stay where the manufacturer put them, as they are designed to grab the chain when you're applying the least amount of force to the pedals, at about 1-2 o'clock in the pedal stroke (or 4-5 o'clock if you're looking at it from the other side).

I don't see any little pins or ramps on the little 39T or 30T of my bike or my girlfriend's bike, but our bikes are not campy.  I'm inclined to think you can freely rotate the little chainring.