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Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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marc, you still haven't installed that thing?!  wtf?  why do you even own it?  i'll take it
No way dude. You're never beating me up a hill ever again.


marc, you still haven't installed that thing?!  wtf?  why do you even own it?  i'll take it

No way dude. You're never beating me up a hill ever again.
Them are fighting words. Time to lay off the cookies. Looking for a lean mean Bertucco machine

File this under world's worst equipment review write-up ever. Absolute trash. #stoppublishingshit

http://www.cyclingnews.com/reviews/zipp-404-firestrike-clincher-limited-review
Sold!
Hilarious. Obvs some kinda press release, not a review.

We all know at least a portion of Zipp's market is people who wanna spend a lot to feel they got the best --- regardless if it is any good or not.

No one that's a half decent cyclist would ever spend $3500 (or anything over $500~600) for a 1600 grams clincher wheel set.  It is such a stupid idea.



This interests me more than Di2. Seems like the future is almost here:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/sram-red-wireless-electronic-group-details-discovered
I used to have a wired SRM. The data is recorded was always clean and consistent. I have since used a wireless SRM, a wireless powertap, and both a power2max and stages powermeters with a garmin head unit.
Each of those wireless solutions occasionally record weird shit. Like a cadence of 300. Or they stop recording entirely for a while (say 5 secs - 20 secs). Not every ride, not indoors either. I'm tempted to think that riding past electric substations causes the freak out, but I'm not sure.

Anyhow .... that makes me suspicious about wireless shifting - at least generation 1.0 of it.
ian ellis said:
 I'm tempted to think that riding past electric substations causes the freak out, but I'm not sure.

Anyhow .... that makes me suspicious about wireless shifting - at least generation 1.0 of it.
I think most of you jokers ride in the wrong gear 1/2 the time anyway, I think a "substation shift" would be good for you.

Seriously though, I agree, generation 1.0, I'll always stay away from, but, it does make me think, well, I can hang onto 10-speed (literally) for say 2 more seasons (before all neutral support disappears), and then consider making an upgrade to version 2.0.
Ok, allow me to kill your wireless shifting boner.

What do wires allow us? Well, they connect everything. What happens when you get rid of wires? You have to put wireless radios in EACH component so that they can communicate to the other component. That means 4 wireless radios. That also means the introduction of 4 more complex points of failure. A wire is much more reliable than a radio. Why? Because it's simpler.

Ok, still chubbed? What else are wires good for? Delivering power. What happens when you get rid of wires? You have to put a battery in EACH component so that they can work properly (as well as communicate to the other component). The removal of a large (now typically hidden) battery means smaller individual batteries. Smaller batteries yield lower charge times. Have fun charging your tiny batteries... or replacing your shifter's 2032.

The article covers some of this, but I wanted to spell it out for you. SRAM already has a PR problem when it comes to reliability. This decision seems to fall in line with their philosophy, sadly.
vlad said:
Ok, allow me to kill your wireless shifting boner.


you forgot the biggest advantage of all the wireless complexity: a new excuse for not winning/making the break/finishing.

Adding to the complexity is diagnosing when your batteries need charging and how you charge them.  An LED indicator light.  Where is it? Will it just start blinking?  For how long?  Can you use your phone to check/diagnose/update?

I also don't understand this: "the system is lighter than comparable setups from Shimano and Campagnolo given SRAM's unique low-power data transmission protocol."  I would think its lighter for two reasons: 1. because they figured out how to make the motors use less energy, 2. because the charge doesn't last for as many shifts.  I also am having a hard time believing they're using some "unique low-power data transmission protocol."  Unique?  Are they a wireless company or a bike company?  

To me, if they've figured out how to use more efficient motors, having it wired would still render the components lighter.
While I am sure they'll have to go thru a few iterations, a company the size of SRAM can totally assemble a team of world class capable wireless developers or hire an agency (or wireless company) to help them out with this.

Re wireless vs wired. Well, okay. In my experience of an early generation wired PT, I can tell you that I have gone through at least 5 different bike mount kits over the years because all those reliable wires have a way of tearing.
While there is a case to be made for improvement through iteration, it does not address the fundamental differences between wired and wireless technologies. Despite what happens at the end points, radio waves are different from electric current. The use of wireless technology introduces more complexity which leads to more points of potential failure. It's as simple as that.

Data moves faster and more efficiently over wires. That's a fact.

The "unique low-power data transmission protocol" is Bluetooth LE, a standard. Dollars to donuts on that one. How many missed shifts will you tolerate in the race?

If they go to market, SRAM is going to fuck this up just like they did with the hydraulic calipers. I've actually seen it at races btw. It's sharp, but I don't think it's for the masses. Too much trouble IMO. Also, how serious is that NDA? Racers aren't talking because it probably sucks.
This all looks like very cool stuff.

If they're using Bluetooth transmitting from the shifters (master) to the slaves (front and rear derailleur), then that would suggest an app could be created for a phone for backup.  Not ideal, but if the battery goes out on your shifter, you could potentially use your phone's app to shift up or down, and at least get yourself home.
I'm guessing brakes won't be included, and that seems pretty telling.  If you're not confident enough to use the technology on brakes, then the technology is not fully ready.
I think brakes are a completely different challenge. It's not just the fact that the battery might die - or the system crap out (although those are clearly a concern).

Shifting is a binary operation. Either the derailleur moves a fixed distance to change gears OR it remains stationary.

Braking is not an all or nothing action. You need progression and modulation. You need feedback.

A good comparison is electronic ("fly by wire") thottle pedals in cars, They blow. A car with a throttle cable is better.
Total agree with the above
I am looking for a good tan wall road racing tubular.

So far found this:
vittoria corsa evo cx iii

But reviews suggests is very flat prone. Thoughts?

Anyone have any suggestions? Looking for light, 23 width, tan wall, 280grams or less, road tubular.
Challenge Strada,  Dugast Strada, Veloflex in several models.

I did decently with the Vittoria Corsa tires.  Didn't race them in the city though.
Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute doesn't seem terribly impressed with the execution of Mips at the moment

from their site:

"The first POC helmet with MIPS has two concentric layers, held in place
by a pin that breaks and lets the shells slip for about 15 mm upon
impact. The layer interface is coated with Teflon. All subsequent
helmets we have seen have just a thin layer of uncoated polycarbonate
plastic inside the normal helmet liner. It slips, but hold it down hard
with your thumb and you can hear it creak against the EPS liner,
indicating friction. Your skin does not do that. MIPS says that the
helmet is supposed to have a layer of slippery fabric between the foam
and the polycarbonate insert, but that turns out to be just small fabric
pads on some point. We saw MIPS models from nine manufacturers at the
September 2014 Interbike show. None of them had a full layer of sliding
enabler fabric, and we found spots on all of them where the
polycarbonate MIPS layer contacted bare EPS. In addition, the inserts
are sliced up to avoid blocking vents in most helmets. The MIPS layer
cuts down on ventilation where it impinges on vents."

http://www.bhsi.org/mips.htm
I am looking for a good tan wall road racing tubular.

So far found this:

But reviews suggests is very flat prone. Thoughts?

Anyone have any suggestions? Looking for light, 23 width, tan wall, 280grams or less, road tubular.

i have ridden nothing but Vittoria open tubs and tubs the past 6 years now with very few flats.  If I do flat a tubular...I just inject a small can of Cafeelatex sealant and that plugs it right up and prevents further flats.  I pre treated a rear tire in Sept. and have done several 57 mile training rides on it with no complaints.

@Eloy

Try FMB. I've had no problems with their Record, CX and seta CX. All are supposed to be 22 or 22.5, but they come up just a little larger.
New Shimano Power Meter?

http://lavamagazine.com/new-shimano-power-meter-spotted-in-the-wild/?cbg_tz=420
Not as aero as my stages (or quarq).
So much talk about training, diet and watts...and so little about things that have proven performance benefits...like bike mojo.  My moj correlates to a 10 watt improvement at  threshold (computrainer validated).image
Stages power meter....thinking of adding some aluminum foil between the battery and the door.  Meter dropped its signal again tonight during intervals...I didn't want to get off the bike and remove the battery door so I just reached down and pushed against the door with my thumb and it regained the signal...
Stages power meter....thinking of adding some aluminum foil between the battery and the door.  Meter dropped its signal again tonight during intervals...I didn't want to get off the bike and remove the battery door so I just reached down and pushed against the door with my thumb and it regained the signal...
Probably interference from that big old radio transmitter you run to keep the black helicopters from listening to that free radio you get from your fillings...
@Yacks, I've got extra gaskets if you think that might help.
a quick google leads me to believe that aluminum conducts electricity, making aluminum foil a poor choice for placement next to a battery.  you should go for plastic wrap?

regarding wireless signal loss with your stages, you seem to have this problem a lot.  as someone who is probably going to get a stages in the coming year or two, i have some questions:
  • are you riding indoors when you experience the worst signal loss? maybe there is interference from other more powerful wireless signals in your routers and whatnot.
  • do you experience the same amount of signal loss outdoors?
  • are you using it in bluetooth mode or ant+ mode?
  • what device are you sending the data to? phone? garmin? abacus?
the problem has not been profound...I use a cateye computer and ant+   The problem is likely due to the cheap dollar store batteries...they seem a bit slimmer than the quality batteries u may find at a Radioshack.
Fascinating discussion of heat and its effects on rims and tires, both tubular and clincher

http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/02/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-hot-tires-rims-oman_361634