Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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Oh, you silly, cracked jockey wheel on my filthy sram red derailleur!  
For spring cleaning, this is the equivalent of dust bunnies beneath the bed.

I stripped the Orbea down to the frame and also found a broken derailleur hanger, gritty headset and BB30 bearings.
Once I'm done rebuilding, there's absolutely no way I'm riding it. 


I can't imagine how your bike would have ridden without BB30 bearings.

I know, right?  And after tearing my bike down, I shot an elephant in my pajamas.
Woot.
I'd be up for a team talk on dangling modifiers, if there's something in the works being worked on.

Bruce

get yourself some new less breakable jockey wheels

http://www.amazon.com/Lerway®-Aluminium-Jockey-Derailleur-SHIMANO/dp/B00G33IVJU/ref=zg_bs_6389290011_34

and one of these too

http://www.amazon.com/Elements-Style-Fourth-William-Strunk/dp/020530902X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1460560847&sr=1-1&keywords=strunk+and+white



Hey Dan, does that second item take metric or imperial allen keys?
good style is 100% metric. obviously.
I see what's happening here...replacing plastic parts with aluminum ones.... me likey    why not go with a jockey wheel that will outlast your der.  your bike and you...and yes...it's ti


Yacks, I imagine the bearings in those will explode about a century before you see tooth wear on that thing. 
well, this thread actually made me order some red pulley thingies.
Do any RDs come stock with metal pulleys?
Do any RDs come stock with metal pulleys?
HAHAHAHAHAHA!

LMAO

You kill me!
Haha, no seriously? I'm not necessarily talking about race oriented gear (i.e. everything must be made of lightweight composites that only have to last a season).  I'd imagine touring or certain MTB RD designs would focus on longevity and robustness.

Ultimately what I'm trying to figure out is, are the component manufacturer bean counters just trying to save a buck or is there a functional (not weight weenie related) reason why these things are all made of nylon or composites or whatever.  Chain wear? More drag? 
It is pretty interesting the variety bike manufacturers have out there for jockey wheels.  It's like oil pans for cars, I think no one pays too much attention to them until yours finally breaks.

In my research, I found plastic with metal bearings,  bushings, plastic with ceramic, aluminum and titanium with metal or ceramic bearings.  And there's one set of carbon fiber wheels kicking around - No.
Aluminum and Titanium wheels were discussed by those often on mountain bikes, where grit and hard wear seem to be more of an issue than on road bikes.  
  
The wheels I am replacing are plastic/composite with ceramic bearings - standard on sram red, and I believe Dura Ace moved from a ceramic bushing to a regular sealed cartridge bearing.

I read a lot of reviews about the bling factor and how it really wasn't worth making the upgrade, which I ignored because I had to replace broken wheels, and costs are low for quality aluminum wheels with ceramic bearings.

I can only assume why there are levels of quality on jockey wheels, and that centers around price and maintaining those levels.  If SRAM Rival, Force and Red all had ceramic jockey wheels, there would be less of an incentive to buy Red, and since Red comes with Ceramic bearings, there's more of a reason to increase the price.  Which seems to beg the question, could you buy a lower-end Rear Derailleur, replace the wheels, and have an RD that functions better than the higher end and keep it around the same weight?  I think that also depends on whether or not you want to.

In the end, the differences seem to be marginal, even with a bearing vs a bushing, so an RD coming with ceramic bearings would appear to be for marketing more than performance - I read calculations that put the differences around .02% in some cases.  The wheels spin incredibly fast, around 550 rpm normally during regular cadence (give or take), and their purpose is to maintain proper, sharp shifting.  They apparently have very little load placed on them, and the difference between an old wheel and a brand new one would probably be greater than the difference between a new plastic one with metal bearings and a new metal one with ceramic bearings.

That being said, I think the aluminum and Titanium wheels look beautiful, but most bike parts do before you introduce them to Floyd.
I thought there were some real watt benefits to fast ones - JP?

If I install these things tonite, will I destroy my shifting and miss tomorrow's race, or will I win?

Stay tuned for *night before the race tinkering adventures*

Usual time Fridays and Saturdays from 9PM to 1:48am.

Jules said:
I thought there were some real watt benefits to fast ones - JP?
There are.  Though I don't think the big difference is in pulley material as much as it is bearing material and pulley size.

Here's an image to give you an idea.  




The company who did the test is friction facts.  I bought the test.  we've discussed this in the past, and as selling test reports is part of how he makes his living, I won't share all the details. 

I reviewed Ceramicspeed bearings years ago, when they were probably slower than they are today.  As part of the review, I used analyticcycling.com to see what kind of difference .5w of savings would make, which was less than the alleged difference between my stock pulleys and the test pulleys .5w at my size can save you 1cm a second (aka 60cm a minute, 36m per hour).  (NB, these differences are more important the slower you go)

While I'm not going to spill the beans on the FF's test, I'll tell you that based on what I read, I decided to go for Tacx's 11t ceramic-bearing pulleys.  And for those still on 10-speed, and with 10t pulleys, these should retrofit w/o issue.  

But if money were no object, I'd probably spend on Ceramic Speed's pulley system.  


I like the look of the 'self-cleaning' nature of the fancy machined jockey wheels. I find plastic ones harbor muck big time.
clearly, I expect these to be better than plastic -- wait until you see the disaster they are replacing.

However I also fully expect those holes to simply harbor muck big time.
@eloy I've tinkered with stuff at 5am just before riding off to the park to set up the reg tables and race, praying that my wheels don't fall apart and my handlebars don't slide out of the stem.  I'd like to think that we're adventurous adrenaline junkies.

@eloy

I know definitively those are going to be faster. Why, you ask. Because they are RED, and we all know Red bikes are emperically faster. Also doing it at 1AM after a few drinks will mean you will probably have to install the chain two to three times to make sure you get it around the jockey wheels correctly.
hahaha, you think I'm actually gonna remove the chain to install these?!? 
You can get these without a fork now...juuust sayin
http://www.vynlbikes.com/order/colors

This is what was removed last night.



oh, and btw, dan was right, I did not remove the chain, but did route incorrectly, so had reinstall one of then. fun times.
The incorrect re-routing is so typical I am almost alarmed when I screw up and get it right the first time...
Eloy those are the grosses ninja throwing stars ever
Eddy Merckx: Disc brakes too dangerous for racing

http://velonews.competitor.com/2016/04/news/eddy-merckx-disc-brakes-dangerous-racing_402468
mugwump said:

While I'm not going to spill the beans on the FF's test, I'll tell you that based on what I read, I decided to go for Tacx's 11t ceramic-bearing pulleys.
+1. Bought the test, bought the Tacx pulleys to replace completely worn down stock ones. They weren't even that much more cash.
Something is percolating at Spooky

https://www.facebook.com/spookycycles/
Of course they are moving to Portland!! ( they owe me a goddam t-shirt)
Thierry, just be happy they don't owe you a bike.