Feb 08, 2016 at 04:21 PM
@David
Pictures ?
Pictures ?
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Feb 08, 2016 at 05:47 PM
@Phil Maronilla Thanks! Maybe I can swing by after work later this week to pick it up?
@Mark Taylor Not ready for photos yet (the guy I bought it off of had it set up as a utility bike with racks and baskets, etc.), but it's a 1991 Schwinn Crosscut. 7 speed freehub so there are a few vintage and modern brifter options out there. I have an old Cinelli XA stem and Giro drops I'll probably use, but might go with a threadless adapter conversion because the XA design (binding bolt behind the clamp as opposed to below like on a classic 1A) has a reputation for weakness and cracking.
http://bikecatalogs.org/SCHWINN/1991/Catalog/Crosscut.html
http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1991_2000/1991_18.html
@Mark Taylor Not ready for photos yet (the guy I bought it off of had it set up as a utility bike with racks and baskets, etc.), but it's a 1991 Schwinn Crosscut. 7 speed freehub so there are a few vintage and modern brifter options out there. I have an old Cinelli XA stem and Giro drops I'll probably use, but might go with a threadless adapter conversion because the XA design (binding bolt behind the clamp as opposed to below like on a classic 1A) has a reputation for weakness and cracking.
http://bikecatalogs.org/SCHWINN/1991/Catalog/Crosscut.html
http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1991_2000/1991_18.html
Feb 08, 2016 at 06:22 PM
@David Yang,
I have some Shimano bar-con shifters that are 8sp that work with 7sp, A nice crisp Jackson claims them.
I have some Shimano bar-con shifters that are 8sp that work with 7sp, A nice crisp Jackson claims them.
Feb 08, 2016 at 06:34 PM
David Yang said:So I bought a vintage (lugged steel Schwinn, what else) :"hybrid" bike that is a stem, drop bar, and STI shifters swap away from being a "join Eloy at Cunningham" CX bike. I just need suitable tires and the Clement MXP seems like a good and affordable all-rounder. Any other suggestions?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFJcWdur3iM
Feb 12, 2016 at 04:23 PM
a wearable power meter
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/videos/cycling-tech/worlds-first-wearable-power-meter-smashes-e100000-crowdfunding-target-in-less-than-24-hours-video?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/brimbrothers/the-worlds-first-wearable-power-meter-for-cyclists/
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/videos/cycling-tech/worlds-first-wearable-power-meter-smashes-e100000-crowdfunding-target-in-less-than-24-hours-video?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/brimbrothers/the-worlds-first-wearable-power-meter-for-cyclists/
Feb 12, 2016 at 04:34 PM
Eloy, i like the idea of a thin plate underneath the speedplay cleat registering the current created by the spark or stretch...
http://velonews.competitor.com/2016/02/news/brim-brothers-launches-440-wearable-power-meter_395221
I do wonder about the pod. Not particularly elegant looking and we're all pretty vain when it comes to looks...
Feb 12, 2016 at 10:36 PM
I feel like this product is waaaaayy too late to the table. Single sided crank based meters have proliferated. My Stages has not had any problems for about a year now...
Feb 12, 2016 at 11:54 PM
Related, I never realized how much the Pioneer meter looks like the Stages until I saw ads all over the interweb. I wonder if Stages has any of the drive side chainring widget pods in the works?twoyacks said:I feel like this product is waaaaayy too late to the table. Single sided crank based meters have proliferated. My Stages has not had any problems for about a year now...
Feb 13, 2016 at 12:09 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm6fxICaA_Q
Feb 13, 2016 at 02:04 PM
Feb 14, 2016 at 10:48 PM
http://youtu.be/KM6mzE5lQ0w
Feb 16, 2016 at 08:14 PM
Hey, so I'm fun'n around with Training Peaks Athlete Premium Edition and on the ATP window, despite having added race events and noted them a, b, or c, and them appearing on my calendar, on the ATP view, it still gives me "0" weeks to event both in the bar graph and in the chart/list below. Any ideas why this is happening?
Mar 06, 2016 at 09:19 PM
Cool bike rack for minivans/SUVs.
Mar 17, 2016 at 10:13 PM
Heads up for those that have Zipp wheels...
http://road.cc/content/news/183020-zipp-recalls-quick-releases-and-front-hubs
http://road.cc/content/news/183020-zipp-recalls-quick-releases-and-front-hubs
Mar 22, 2016 at 09:33 PM
so I am going to try this for my road tubulars this season. I am putting my delicate skin in the hands of Caragona (according to the site its pronounced Car-own-ya), and means carrion. I hope this doesn't mean my flesh splattered all over the road for vultures to pick over my bones.PatrickG said:I tried the Caragona tape in my road tubular this year. I am impressed and would use it again. The first advantage is that it is a much quicker and less messy approach to tubulars. For some of us who have been used to Belgian tape and whatnot, it stops away some of the romance of gluing tubulars in the loving fashion of an Italian craftsman from so distant era, but on the other hand, it's easy. You pick.
The Caragona tape is a strange gelatin glue that apparently was initially developed for undersea applications. On my road bike it seems to hold plenty strong. I haven't tried it with cross tubulars but it certainly seems like it would be sturdy enough. By the way clean up is also infinitely easier than scrubbing the chunks of mastic and Belgian tape off your rims with as stone for hours. This stuff comes right off.
One more thing. When I bought it in the late spring early summer there was a narrow tape and a wide tape. I have wide tubular rims so I went with the wide tape. That was a mistake. The width of the tape was 1mm wider than the rim and I had to cut it down. Measure carefully because I It's sort of a pain to cut down. After emailing the distributor they recommended that the rim always be wider than the tape. This makes sense to me but the website suggested otherwise.
Patrick seems fully intact, so I have hope.
Mar 22, 2016 at 09:47 PM
I used this product for my tubular wheels and so far so good. Make sure you get rid of any residual glue by using their glue remover and I also finished cleaning the rim with acetone.
Mar 27, 2016 at 05:31 PM
@SeanMiles
tubeless. I wanted to post here about it to avoid hijacking the L&C thread.
general info:
installation can be a morass if you're not used to it or if you happen to have the wrong tire-rim combo. rims are getting better, however; the Pacenti SL23 rims I use released a new version last year to deepen the main channel and ease fitting of tubeless tires.
i've never had to resort to a compressor for tubeless tire install despite what some might say. even with big, higher-volume CX tires.
tubeless. I wanted to post here about it to avoid hijacking the L&C thread.
general info:
- schwalbe one tubeless among top 10 lowest rolling resistance tire, tubes included?
- GCN seems to say not worth it for road (non-gravel) use
- bikerumor articles about the state of road tubelearss part one | part two
- downsides are that it's +150 grams heavier, some report less supple at same pressure as road (but really you should be running lower psi with tubeless because you can), replacing tire can be more difficult, mounting tire for first time can be one of the most frustrating bits of bike maintenance you perform
installation can be a morass if you're not used to it or if you happen to have the wrong tire-rim combo. rims are getting better, however; the Pacenti SL23 rims I use released a new version last year to deepen the main channel and ease fitting of tubeless tires.
i've never had to resort to a compressor for tubeless tire install despite what some might say. even with big, higher-volume CX tires.
Mar 27, 2016 at 05:51 PM
Thanks Brendan. If I were to make the switch I'd go s-works turbo's - lowest rolling resistance of any tire as per velonews review. Picked up a set of clinchers of the turbos but have not installed them so might just switch them out.
As for weight - I'm not sure how it would be too much heavier as the tires are only about 30g difference (for s-works 24's) plus sealant, I would think that sealant + 30g would be only marginally heavier than an 80g lightish butyl tube/ heavy latex tube.
GCN notes not as good of feel. but the Schwalbe tires are 100g difference where others are much closer, I wonder if the s-works are noticeably less stiff.
My rims have a pretty deep channel so hopefully getting the tire on there wouldn't be too bad.
As for weight - I'm not sure how it would be too much heavier as the tires are only about 30g difference (for s-works 24's) plus sealant, I would think that sealant + 30g would be only marginally heavier than an 80g lightish butyl tube/ heavy latex tube.
GCN notes not as good of feel. but the Schwalbe tires are 100g difference where others are much closer, I wonder if the s-works are noticeably less stiff.
My rims have a pretty deep channel so hopefully getting the tire on there wouldn't be too bad.
Mar 27, 2016 at 06:38 PM
I've never ridden super-duper nice tires, just Conti 4000 or 4 seasons and never with butyl tubes, also never ridden tubulars, but I will say that Schwalbe One tubeless at around 75 PSI makes a noticeable difference in the roadfeel I usually get with my CAAD10. it's like a different, much more forgiving, bike. 75 PSI might not be good for rolling resistance, but it's great for comfort in my experience
Mar 28, 2016 at 02:57 PM
Brendan,
I'm looking for backup on this, but I'm pretty sure the tubeless Schwalbe One gets its low rolling resistance numbers by either removing a "breaker" fabric under the tread or a dramatically thinner casing, or both.
In other words, I think it likely that you're going to get more cuts through the tread with the tubeless One. Whether or not this matters with the goo rolling around is up for debate.
I'm looking for backup on this, but I'm pretty sure the tubeless Schwalbe One gets its low rolling resistance numbers by either removing a "breaker" fabric under the tread or a dramatically thinner casing, or both.
In other words, I think it likely that you're going to get more cuts through the tread with the tubeless One. Whether or not this matters with the goo rolling around is up for debate.
Mar 28, 2016 at 04:09 PM
Brendan, you've never ridden until you've ridden tubulars with latex tubes, or seen attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion.
Recently I have been riding Conti 28mm Gran Sport, they barely fit under my brakes, but ohh, so buttery soft, and i can ride them down to 65psi. I can't get those wide ass tires in or out without deflating them, but boy are they nice to roll around the park on. Like pillows instead of pneumatic tires. They're ideal at about 80psi in front and 85psi in the rear (because my ass is super fat this time of year).
Mar 29, 2016 at 04:55 AM
Mar 30, 2016 at 08:04 PM
Is there a way to do maintenance on BB86 (press fit) bearings without the need for: 
I have a feeling that when I installed the Stages crank-arm I over tensioned the Hollowtech II bolt a little, causing a bit of sideways load on bearings and consequent BB noises. Replace bearings?
I have a feeling that when I installed the Stages crank-arm I over tensioned the Hollowtech II bolt a little, causing a bit of sideways load on bearings and consequent BB noises. Replace bearings?
Mar 30, 2016 at 09:15 PM
What kind of noises?
My Ultegra crank needs to be pulled off, cleaned, retightened at least twice a year. I get a definitive squeak on a downstroke. I can make it disappear if I pedal by pulling up with my hamstrings, not pushing down at all. When I do that, and the squeak goes away, it's time to redo the crank arm.
Is it an intermittent squeak?
My Ultegra crank needs to be pulled off, cleaned, retightened at least twice a year. I get a definitive squeak on a downstroke. I can make it disappear if I pedal by pulling up with my hamstrings, not pushing down at all. When I do that, and the squeak goes away, it's time to redo the crank arm.
Is it an intermittent squeak?
Mar 30, 2016 at 09:28 PM
It's low level noise until I go over 400 watts and it really complains, I dunno about up down. I haven't touched it in 9 months, so it sounds like it needs to be pulled. Does the maintenance you do involve pulling the bearings out or can you do it without?
Mar 30, 2016 at 09:29 PM
John,
First, Redbeard. They do excellent work. I'm sure you can schedule a time with them to bring the bike in.
Second, have you tried backing off the preload ever so slightly?
First, Redbeard. They do excellent work. I'm sure you can schedule a time with them to bring the bike in.
Second, have you tried backing off the preload ever so slightly?
Mar 30, 2016 at 10:29 PM
I haven't had an issue with the bearings. I did just change the bottom bracket last year on my Trek after 5 years, but that's with the screw on 68mm BB. I haven't touched the PF on the Orbea yet.
For the crank arm, I pull everything off, clean it all, regrease the threads, whack the drive side crank in to make sure it's snug, put the crank arm on, tighten the dust cap slightly more than hand tight with that little tool, then put the pinch bolts in, push down the black plastic shield that sits between them, tighten one just a bit, the other, one, the other, evenly, until they're hand tight, alternating each. The squeak goes away immediately.
I've had to replace the pinch bolts before, as well, because they have a soft cap and strip easily.
I'd recommend trying this out, first, making sure the pinch bolts get tightened down evenly. I'm not surprised that you're hearing noise. The watts you put out has probably made the bolts slightly uneven.
If that doesn't work, then yep, the bearings may need adjustment or replacement and for press fit, best to let a store monkey with it.
Mar 30, 2016 at 10:50 PM
Thanks Bruce, I went through that whole left-crank-arm-install protocol as you described when I installed, except I didn't take the right side crank out and grease the drive shaft or touch the bearings.
I hear differing stories on how hard you tighten the tension bolt, didn't realize it was so nuanced:
- torque is minimum necessary to eliminate play in the crank-arm system when the pinch bolts are tightened. You don't need a torque wrench for this. The Shimano plastic tool was made that way so it was very hard to over-torque. Proper adjustment is with the arm fully pushed on, preload a bit more than finger tight, cinch up both bolts and test for play.
- turn the crank frequently while tightening, and if you notice any increase in resistance, back off the torque a bit. Actual torque 0.7 - 1.5nm
I hear differing stories on how hard you tighten the tension bolt, didn't realize it was so nuanced:
- torque is minimum necessary to eliminate play in the crank-arm system when the pinch bolts are tightened. You don't need a torque wrench for this. The Shimano plastic tool was made that way so it was very hard to over-torque. Proper adjustment is with the arm fully pushed on, preload a bit more than finger tight, cinch up both bolts and test for play.
- turn the crank frequently while tightening, and if you notice any increase in resistance, back off the torque a bit. Actual torque 0.7 - 1.5nm
Mar 30, 2016 at 11:24 PM
PF86 BB is probably easier to maintain than a threaded BB. If you have the right tools all you do is knock out the bearings and press them back in. Unlike threaded there is zero chance of the tool slipping off the BB cup resulting in an ugly scratch on your BB shell and a bit less skin on your knuckles.
Thing is you do need the right tools - and enough courage to swing the hammer hard to knock the bearings out of your frame - which will be required if red loctite was used on the BB cups to prevent creaking.
Redbeard seems sound advice.
Thing is you do need the right tools - and enough courage to swing the hammer hard to knock the bearings out of your frame - which will be required if red loctite was used on the BB cups to prevent creaking.
Redbeard seems sound advice.
Mar 31, 2016 at 12:58 AM
Chris King and the tool....create your own sound effect
