David Yang said:

mugwump said:

I want to lengthen the cleat mounting slots on my mtb shoes.

A Dremel might be best.  But as I don't have one, I'm wondering about faking it.  Perhaps wrapping a drill bit with some sandpaper, or just drilling.

Thoughts on what to do?

I say just use an appropriate diameter bit to extend the slot.  I would be mindful of how thick the sole is where you're extending into so you don't drill straight through (though it's probably not a big deal)

Please remove shoes from foot before attempting. That is all.

mugwump said:

jim_nelson said:

I rode home in that rain. I was soaked but the Diacomp 500's slowed me down.

Like Brendan, you were riding disc brakes.  

But your rotors are larger and don't heat up as much.  And your caliper can stop more quickly with less force thanks to greater leverage.

although once you factor in the hydraulic actuation, the force required at the hands is approximately 4-7 GAJILLION times less than with rim brakes (srsly i did the math!)

the only way to settle the matter once and for all will be an epic rainstorm showdown between the diacomps and the rival 22 hydro brakes.  a reverse-drag race braking contest

Rim brakes are for weaklings.

True hardmen use tree branches for braking needs.

ak

Ben...are you sure that picture wasn't taken last week?

Frame bag
Beard
Tweed
Fixies

Everything old is new again.

David Yang said:

mugwump said:

I want to lengthen the cleat mounting slots on my mtb shoes.

A Dremel might be best.  But as I don't have one, I'm wondering about faking it.  Perhaps wrapping a drill bit with some sandpaper, or just drilling.

Thoughts on what to do?

I say just use an appropriate diameter bit to extend the slot.  I would be mindful of how thick the sole is where you're extending into so you don't drill straight through (though it's probably not a big deal)

Tried with a regular drill bit.  Didn't work.  Just ordered a Dremel 194 High Speed Cutting Tool.  It's a tiny bit narrower than the slot width.  Looks like I should be able to mount it in my regular drill.  

David Yang said:

Diacomp 500 = Poor man campy record  That's the bizzombizzles right there.

Also having a good wet braking rubber compound for rim braking makes a y'uuuuge difference on rim brakes.

I'm assuming disc brakes have an advantage in the wet since the calipers basically use sandpaper to create friction on the rotors instead of rubber?

My guess is that both the rotor brake pads are more abrasive and the smaller diameter means the rotors heat up faster than 700c rims.  It's a disadvantage in some conditions, but probably not here.

mugwump said:

David Yang said:

mugwump said:

I want to lengthen the cleat mounting slots on my mtb shoes.

A Dremel might be best.  But as I don't have one, I'm wondering about faking it.  Perhaps wrapping a drill bit with some sandpaper, or just drilling.

Thoughts on what to do?

I say just use an appropriate diameter bit to extend the slot.  I would be mindful of how thick the sole is where you're extending into so you don't drill straight through (though it's probably not a big deal)

Tried with a regular drill bit.  Didn't work.  Just ordered a Dremel 194 High Speed Cutting Tool.  It's a tiny bit narrower than the slot width.  Looks like I should be able to mount it in my regular drill.  

Didn't work like the bit wouldn't go through the fiberglass/carbonfiber sole?  Or the bit broke?  Might have had luck using a different type of bit and making sure to use a high rpm/low torque setting on the drill (if you have those options).  I guess you may also need to have the shoe secured so you're not holding it in one hand while you're doing it.

Take pictures!

Dan Reiners said:

Ben...are you sure that picture wasn't taken last week?

Frame bag
Beard
Tweed
Fixies

Everything old is new again.

Six degrees of hipster....

David Yang said:

Didn't work like the bit wouldn't go through the fiberglass/carbonfiber sole?  Or the bit broke?  Might have had luck using a different type of bit and making sure to use a high rpm/low torque setting on the drill (if you have those options).  I guess you may also need to have the shoe secured so you're not holding it in one hand while you're doing it.

Take pictures!

This is the tool.  The slot width is 5/32.  The head diameter here is 1/4.  Dremel suggests a use is lengthening slots.

I'll have it in my hands tomorrow.

The drill bits I have were not sanding off any of the carbon-fiber/plastic sole.  I held the shoe between my knees as I was sitting down. I don't think it was the speed.

Interesting. Curious if it would have worked if you drilled directly into the sole like overlapping into the slot instead of trying to shave it from the side?

David Yang said:

Interesting. Curious if it would have worked if you drilled directly into the sole like overlapping into the slot instead of trying to shave it from the side?

I considered that, but was concerned about the extended hole not lining up.

@David Yang

The 194 was smaller than I should have gotten.  The 196 is much closer to the slot width, though still narrower, and I ordered two. (they come in two-packs).  The larger diameter would have made the work go faster.  And a more flexy sole probably would have been faster as well.

One thing that makes it easier with this, and many, mtb shoes, is that there's a long cleat backing plate is between the outer sole and insole.  It's hard to cut through that with the Dremel bit. 

I lengthened the slots on the back end by about 3mm.  Before and after shots of one shoe below.  Going to ride them in Vegas this week and when I get back, will decide on whether or not to do some more Dremeling.  I also might do it to a second pair of shoes if I like the results.

Should be safe.  I asked around and I learned that it's not uncommon for pros do ask their shoe sponsors for this.

anyone have a spare rear 11 speed quick release hub (or wheel) they would pawn off to me? just need something for the trainer

rigby.b@gmail.com

Need lights. Not crazy full beam action, just functional and not fugly. Recco's?

anything light and motion is good IMO but those tend to be more beam lights that you're not looking for.  their rear light, vis180, is sweet.  waterproof, usb rechargable, nice attachment mechanism that isn't a PITA to undo

Knog has great lights and they are awesome for functionality and easy to use.

Vis 180micro looks really well designed Brendan, you think it'll fit aero seat post? 

I do like Knog, although I've had silicone/rubber fail and it's non-replaceable which is hugely annoying. Their road offerings seem a bit overpriced — $100+ for front/rear seems a bit egregious.  

Lastly, what's up with USB lights? Isn't charging after every ride a PITA? 

I would say the Knog ones have gotten better, with replaceable silicone bits, and the USB can be annoying if you're running them for lighting the way rather than just informing folks you're coming/going by being blinky. If you're blinking you will run for weeks without needing recharge.

https://usd.knog.com.au/bike/lights/blinder-mini-chippy-twinpack.html

i only have to recharge usb lights once every couple rides. the headlight (used for riding in areas with no street lights at night) has an indicator, i charge it every 3-4 rides and could probably charge less frequently. rear light seems to require less frequent charging.  if you go USB, it is worth it to get one with an indicator because otherwise you randomly guess and end up riding in the dark with no lights

i will say if anyone is hesitant about the rubber/silicon straps styled like this one that i've never had the strap fail.  i have had plastic parts of the this light break after ~1 year of use, warrantied it.  come to think of it maybe i'll take back that recommendation given that it only lasted a year and it cost $40.  i do like light and motion headlights, very easy to get on and off, good service, and bright.  my urban 700 has been going strong since 4/2014 and was given as a free upgrade from a warrantied urban 500 before that

LIM is great but ain't cheap. Knog's are nice - usb charger's built in. They don't seem to last long without a charge.

This badboy is clearly the peaches....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vgNh3fLxJc

I'll third or fourth the Light in Motion stuff. I have the Urban 500 and generally use it on flashing for my commutes (about 60-70 minutes each day) and I charge it once every two weeks at my desk. It's bright enough for CX practice in the dark which is why I got it initially (when I was using little bity flashy Knogs for commuting).

oh no jim, you're one of THOSE?! every time i see flashing headlights i cry.  i bet you point it right into the eyes of oncoming traffic too.  look behind you as you ride and you'll see the fallen, seizing bodies of all the photosensitive epileptic cyclists cursing you and your reign of LED terror!

re: price, i bought the light and motion thing because i went through at least $60 of shitty headlights that didn't work, fell off, weren't bright enough anyway, yadda yadda, and said hell with that, if i spend around $100 at least i know it will last me 2 years and not fall off my bike in the rain in the dark. if you commute, which i recently started doing, or ride in unlit areas (the park i go through is not lit after dark in some sections, wtf), you'll need a light that can actually illuminate the road enough to see potholes and menacing road stalagmites

also sometimes i think that cars/other road users who are approaching me head on probably see a really bright light, assume i'm a motorcycle, and give me a little more room.  wishful thinking, perhaps

Brendan Rigby said:

oh no jim, you're one of THOSE?! every time i see flashing headlights i cry.  i bet you point it right into the eyes of oncoming traffic too.  look behind you as you ride and you'll see the fallen, seizing bodies of all the photosensitive epileptic cyclists cursing you and your reign of LED terror!

Exactly. While I may still be killed by an oncoming car, at least they'll be doing it on purpose. 

I turn it to the steady mode and aim it down a bit when I'm on the bridge, the west side path, or any other place that has other cyclists coming directly at me.

Just throwing this into the discussion as well, you should compare throw angles and how wide the light beam is on the road.

I have two lights, a Lezyne that is 300 lumens max and a Cygolite at 350 lumens max.  Both are incredibly bright, certainly enough for general use, but the Lezyne one throws a wider angle so more of the road is lit.  In a side by side comparison, the Cygolite is brighter, but more focused on a narrow patch of the road while the Lezyne is dimmer, but gives you a little more coverage of the sides.

Blinky mode is great during rainy or cloudy daylight hours because a solid light gets lost in the general light pollution/noise of the streets.  A seizure inducing blink pattern is highly visible and in this regard the Cygolite's blinky mode is fantastic, it is similar to an emergency vehicle's siren light pattern.  Drivers definitely notice me more when I used it (useful when bombing down avenues in evening commutes next to cars going 40mph).  The Lezyne is a slow and steady blink which from my experience garners only marginally more attention from drivers than a solid light.

During my bike commuting days I used both, the Cygolite to throw light farther down the road or to use the blinky mode and the Lezyne for lighting up the road more directly in front of me.  The nice thing about both lights was that the mounts allowed them to be pointed left or right, which on the bridges, is courteous for riders riding the opposite direction as you.

Brendan Rigby said:

also sometimes i think that cars/other road users who are approaching me head on probably see a really bright light, assume i'm a motorcycle, and give me a little more room.  wishful thinking, perhaps

When I ride with my LIM setup in the park when I overtake other cyclists they often call out to each other "car" because it's so insanely bright.

(note to reader - I'm slow and fat so I'm not overtaking shit unless it's flatted on the side of the road)

Not to be an old fogey, but 10 years ago, the only way to get lights that bright was to have several giant nicad battery packs strapped to your top or down tubes powering halogen bulbs and they would last like 30 minutes.  We're living in the golden age of bicycles and bicycle accessories...

Totally agree it is better than ever. But we are not there just yet.

All these accessories are difficult to maintain and disconnected from each other. Somewhat removing the simple beauty of cycling.

We are if you will, in the dumb, starting stages, of making bicycles and their parts smart.

For example, all these lights should connect and be controlled by your garmin or phone, there you should be able to set them, turn off/on, get clear indications on how much power is left, etc -- the same is true for Di2, Power, eTap, etc... 

I look forward to building this, and to what the future will bring.

^ Done. The newer Garmin's with light level detection can wirelessly control lights. Also rear sensing radar so you can tell when someone is going to smash into you from behind. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/into-sports/cycling/varia-smart-bike-lights/prod506138.html

yes! but exclusive to Garmin.