Ouch.

Nugent?

Not Neugent....He actually uses drive side rear wheel washers to prevent this fiasco.  Those wheels are Amrican Classic 2218 rims laced to Alchemy Elf/Orc hubs built by Jeremey Pruitt...the guy who designed and built those hubs...Any way 3 years went fast on them...next build will be using Boyd Altamount Lite rims with that Oh So 90's ceramic brake track...

Now I understand why American Classic went out of business.

I still have an am classic 350 rear wheel and my mtb rolls on their wheels
surprisingly Yack’s rolled on am classic hoops for years without many problems (save a rear hub that locked up while I was in a winning break)...look Spint 350 wheels...and a snapped carbon crank

Thierry Bonnaire said:

Now I understand why American Classic went out of business.

Um...  https://amclassic.com/

um...  http://www.bicycleretailer.com/industry-news/2018/01/05/american-classic-closes-factory-puts-ip-assets-sale#.WmgGQ56nHEY

Don't worry JP...you will always be able to find their seatposts on ebay

twoyacks said:

Don't worry JP...you will always be able to find their seatposts on ebay

Their old post was awesome--easy to adjust, easy to lock in place.  Their new post is ok, but it hasn't failed me, so I haven't replaced it.  

Slingshot got new kicks
Dt Swiss R460 tubeless ready rims with Schwalbe One's and a 36 tooth ratchet upgrade on the rear hub 

Speaking of DT Swiss. What the funk is this all about?

yeah...replace that and when you do it...upgrade that engagement ratchet to at least 36 teeth.  The problem with the stock 18 tooth engagement is that the wind up is kinda long and when your cassette finally grabs the freehub body it's got some torque behind it and it'll gouge the shit out of it.  White Industries uses a titanium cassette body (do I really need to go down this road) to prevent gauging.  American Classic hubs used some very smart steel inserts in he cassette body to stop the gauging yet maintain a lightweight aluminum cassette body
this video gives a little 411 on this...just look at the engagement differences around the 5 minute mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wtA72zCryo

Hugely helpful thanks Yacks. Any way to salvage bearings? I just got shop to overhaul the ratchets and bearings.  

I think old bearings are like soiled underwear...you could salvage them...but do you really want to?

john that gouging is pretty common in the aluminum freehub body world we live in.  various solutions exist, some outlined by yacks above.  

to answer your question about moving bearings...

taking bearings from one freehub and putting them into another is not going to be recommended by any manufacturer since the removal process is generally viewed as damaging the bearings unless you have super expensive tools.  that said i've done it without issues, just not in a DT swiss hub

DT Swiss freehubs have some seals that others don't that are probably best removed and installed with special (expensive) tools.    it's within item 7 on this diagram: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/technology/wheel-technology/ratchet-system-technology/  you probably won't be able to get the "high quality rotary seal" back in place perfectly

it's cheaper to just buy a new freehub, i think they are MSRP $85 or so

I only have one question concerning Johns picture...What's "11 speed"?

John, I may have misID'd your wheel.  You might not have a star ratchet at all, it might be a pawl mechanism (it came with the wheels on your Foil, right?).  Those freehubs would cost you only about $50 MSRP I think.

this is why u don't build my wheels...

I took to Jefe at the LBS and they say no big deal, ride it with the gouges. Can't see how that squares with Shimano engineering, but seems to shift fine. I'm prolly going to pony for the replacement freehub, but at least in the interim an unexpected visit to the top tube seems unlikely. 

twoyacks said:

this is why u don't build my wheels...

no reason to have anyone (including me) build them if you can get ergott to do it!

also, you misIDd it too yacks, pawls not star ratchet!

john, even if it is ridable, the gouges make it a huge PITA to remove the cassette (as i'm sure you experienced).  some people replace it just for that reason, not because they suspect a top tube snack

Yeah you're right it is a pain, you have to file down the burs. It is actually a ratchet freehub though, gonna go for the steel DT version.

JohnMalcolmson said:

gonna go for the steel DT version.

but the grams!

Yacks is going to need to rebuild my aluminum road clinchers at some point this season....time to raise funds....getting my side hustle on...

^ Is that Amagansett?

rung what ya brung

https://www.cxmagazine.com/jen-malik-collegiate-club-raleigh-rxc-2018-reno-cyclocross-nationals

my stages gen 2 meter is constantly dropping signals outside.  Inside all is good...wtf?
I've included 2 pics...one from last year using a gen 1 stages meter and 1 this year using a gen 2



see the difference?

this has been going on for awhile...i went back to the club championships cuz I was wondering how we averaged 27.7 mph and I only put out 259 watts...
look at all these drops...that was probably a 300 watt + race
I had only been riding my cross bike that I put my gen 1 stages on...no probs

What are the variables? Different head unit/bike computer vs an ant+ dongle on a computer? How about connecting the stages directly to your phone via app?