Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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I think it can be removed? I recently got a quark spider and swapped from hidden bolt to non-hidden without any problems. Not sure if that addresses the same issue though! 
Jules said:
Jules said:
Does anyone know if the SRAM 5th "hidden" bolt can be removed from the chainring or is it bonded/glued in there?

I'm in a small world of hurt trying to repurpose my 130 bcq quark bb30 crank for my new 1x bike.
I believe it's called the "knurled" nut.

FFS why they make stuff so f-ing difficult?
I would think you could tap it out.  Just put in the bolt on the inside, put the chainring on a flat surface, with a cut-out of sorts to push the nut down, and then get a mallet.  Conversely, I suppose you could thread it from the outside and use pliers to pull it out.  
Yeah so it turns out I have both my old cx chainring and a brand new (old, never used) 53 tooth (yeah I’m laughing too) chainring with knurled nuts in them. Both seemed locked in there at Eitri’s forge.

That or apparently I’m not the rightful king of England.


WD40 soak, a couple of taps with the "persuader" on the bolt, then fit a metal tube over allen wrench for more leverage?
Putting a bit of blue loctite on a bolt actually ensures it won't seize (red not so much).
I am looking to convert my Van Dessel CX bike to thru axle. It’s been nearly two weeks and the folks at Van Dessel have the fork I need, are too busy to complete the purchase. 

I was considering going with a third party fork. ENVE makes a nice, albeit a little expensive, CX disc fork. Anyone able to recommend another fork manufacturer worth checking out? 

Im waiting to hear back from Ilya if he has any recommendations, but I thought I’d ask the Kissena hive mind while I wait....
Patrick , curious why?
Primary reason is future compatibility. Some time in the future I will get another wheelset or another CX bike. I’d like the new bike to work with existing wheels or new wheels to work with existing bike. I think bikes and wheels with disc brakes and QR skewers are going the way of the dodo
Primary reason is future compatibility. Some time in the future I will get another wheelset or another CX bike. I’d like the new bike to work with existing wheels or new wheels to work with existing bike. I think bikes and wheels with disc brakes and QR skewers are going the way of the dodo
Keep in mind there are a zillion thru axle standards right now. Also, how would that work with the dropout in the back?
Yeah, don't you love how the word standard means exactly the opposite when it comes to the bike industry?

I think I am relatively safe with 12mm TA in front and back. VD likes to go with Speed Release which is of course a different TA standard. The upside (unless I am mistaken) is that you can use the same wheels with 12mm TA and 12mm Speed release - just a different skewer.

As for the rear wheel, the FTB is designed with replaceable dropouts which include the derailleur hanger. You can choose QR, TA or speed release. 

While speed release seems nifty, one of the reasons I am looking at non-VD options is that going regular TA should be a more common "standard" in the future


Jules said:
Primary reason is future compatibility. Some time in the future I will get another wheelset or another CX bike. I’d like the new bike to work with existing wheels or new wheels to work with existing bike. I think bikes and wheels with disc brakes and QR skewers are going the way of the dodo
Keep in mind there are a zillion thru axle standards right now. Also, how would that work with the dropout in the back?

Primary reason is future compatibility. Some time in the future I will get another wheelset or another CX bike. I’d like the new bike to work with existing wheels or new wheels to work with existing bike. I think bikes and wheels with disc brakes and QR skewers are going the way of the dodo
Tell me about it , i was looking at upgrades for my Giant MTB , which disapointingly came with QR wheels , really limited on 
non boost options 
I like Mavic's Speed Release for thru-axle wheels.  Makes more sense to me than regular thru-axles.

It also should be noted that a number of companies make adapters for their disc-brake hubs.  That, more than the design at the fork tips and dropouts would be something I'd look for in new disc-brake wheels.
Just to add, when it comes to cx, the most common thru axle is 12/100 for the front and 12/142 in the back, with 140 rotors. This is pretty standard today. 

It is almost the same in the road, except there's a tendency to sometimes make the front rotor 160. 

How the axle screws into the frame, depends on well, the frame. That is, the axle belongs to the frame, or fork, and not the wheel. Whether it is speed release, or needs a hex allen key, there's nothing that the wheel needs to do as long as the width and diameter is as above.


The 140/140 f/r rotor arrangement was something Shimano was pushing when they first were doing rotors for the road, but they were an outlier.  

SRAM and others were initially pretty much 160/160 for the road.  Looking at DQS and Bora-Hansgrohe, I think they/specialized/shimano are 160/140 for road.  

Looks like Katusha runs their Canyons (SRAM) that way, as does Trek-Segafredo with their bike (SRAM).  At the same time, it looks like Specialized is running 160/160 with their SRAM eTap, and 160/140 with Shimano Di2 if you buy built up.  The Specialized Crux looks like 160/140.
What a fucking mess.
yah, I find the rotor mismatch on the road to be more annoying than thru axles.

Granted is still new(ish), judging from the Crux, I cannot image ever needing 160 rotors, and hope that too normalizes to 140/140 -- just like the axles are normalizing to 12/100 & 12/142.
eloy said:
yah, I find the rotor mismatch on the road to be more annoying than thru axles.

Granted is still new(ish), judging from the Crux, I cannot image ever needing 160 rotors, and hope that too normalizes to 140/140 -- just like the axles are normalizing to 12/100 & 12/142.
I don't know about that.  I understand the aesthetic issues of rotor mismatch, but so long as it's across-the-board, as in all 700c wheeled bikes have it, then I think it's good.

I even wonder about the value of 140, as most of the stopping power is on the front wheel.  Which is to write, I think there has been little in the way of actual testing to determine limits and such.

Where I'm concerned is the 140 for cx and 160 for road.  It's easy in this area to go 45mph downhill, and while overheating isn't so much of an issue because no descent is really long, I like the slightly better leverage of 160, especially if we're talking about standardization.  There are plenty of 200-250lbs people riding bikes these days, and there are plenty of areas with longer and bigger hills than ours.  And there should be the expectation that people are taking their cross bikes on the road for training and hitting those kinds of speeds.    

I bet a bigger rider could overheat some disc setups just on a neutral start down Lake Welch Drive in the Harriman road race.  I think the descent is long enough that if you're dragging the brakes the whole way, there could be a problem.
The good news is that you can swap brake calipers between 140 and 160 with relative ease. It's just a case of adjusting the mount.
Jules said:
The good news is that you can swap brake calipers between 140 and 160 with relative ease. It's just a case of adjusting the mount.
that's "good" news.  It's not fast, and you're probably not doing it on the road.
for procrastination, I've been poking around websites, trying to figure out what manufacturers are specifying.  Felt's SRAM Red disc bike comes with 160/160--this seems to be what they gave the Rally UHC team.  

Fuji's Supreme with Red comes with 140/140.  Fuji has four disc brake modeled Supreme bikes.  The next two come with Shimano calipers and 140/140.  The cheapest has 160/160 with TRP Spyre calipers, but the two smallest sizes come 140/140.  The Tibco Team that races Fuji Supremes ride 160/160 on Shimano.

It's a mess.  
(I'm so glad to have mentioned rotor sizes, haha)

Does anybody know what size hubs Spacing i would need to order if I were to upgrade the wheels that came on my giant MTB
it’ll be way easier to just buy a new bike with the better wheels ;) (check with Ilya but I think it is 110 mm front 142 mm back)
Forgot to mention , the frame and fork are QR only
its really confusing
Ok, I measured the drop out and fork 
142&100
🤞
So I'm not at all qualified to evaluate the technical merit of this analysis but damn buddy, tell us how you really feel?

https://youtu.be/GWDztuezn0g


Hambini is an interesting character for sure. But he is also insane at burning bridges, I have learned thru the years, that it doesn't matter how good you are at the technical stuff, if no one likes you, then, maybe, you are not a good engineer.
eloy said:
Hambini is an interesting character for sure. But he is also insane at burning bridges, I have learned thru the years, that it doesn't matter how good you are at the technical stuff, if no one likes you, then, maybe, you are not a good engineer.
Well I agree with the former and the latter is not a reflection of his engineering skill.

Also there are very few ways to point out an entire industry is selling snake oil and still be polite.
Hey guys. So, I will be traveling for a couple of weeks and I’m will be bringing my bike with me. Air travel makes me nervous as I don’t yet have insurance on my bike.

Are soft bags safe for air travel? Or are hard cases a much better option?

which bags/cases would you recommend (I will be out for three weeks, so renting a case would come off too pricey)

thanks! 


Soft side cases like the pika pack are great. If you’ll be traveling often you may want to do a little less reassembly though. 
soft bags will be fine -- insulating pipes and bubble wrap work wonders on protecting your bike. There are plenty of youtube videos on how to pack things. Some obvious tips, protect the derailleur hanger, and make sure nothing is loose inside the bag (regardless of hard/soft shell) -- basically, disassemble the bike, but tie everything together with tape/velcro straps, so the frame, bars, seatpost, etc. are one unit that moves as one, and no piece can bang any other.