eloy said:

protect the derailleur hanger

Just a side note: I would recommend to everyone to pick up a spare derailleur hanger. It's the tiniest part, can be impossible to find in a shop, and can ruin a weekend in an instant. 

The RDH on my cross bike seems to be made out of repurposed tortilla chips and I've learned to keep a spare in my travel/race bag 

RobertMullen said:

eloy said:

protect the derailleur hanger

Just a side note: I would recommend to everyone to pick up a spare derailleur hanger. It's the tiniest part, can be impossible to find in a shop, and can ruin a weekend in an instant. 

The RDH on my cross bike seems to be made out of repurposed tortilla chips and I've learned to keep a spare in my travel/race bag 

https://derailleurhanger.com/

Just to add, just like Rob suggests, I travel with a extra hanger. I don't think it'll get damaged on transit, but just in case, specially if riding off road/gravel. 

Depending on destination I'll put new tires and maybe even a chain -- that is, a trip is a good excuse to replace that bit that is worn out or you been procrastinating about, it'll mean less flats, less issues, better shifting, more enjoyment during the trip, etc... often I'll even throw in any extra bubble wrap and a paper towel roll.

I was doing 20/10 intervals on a dirt path loop this morning. During one of the intervals, while out of my seat, my crank arm broke and I crashed spectacularly. I'm little bruised but surpassingly okay. I landed on dirt and my POC helmet (R.I.P.) did its job.

So what happened to the crank? Well my Carbon Quarq/SRAM crank failed and my pedal (and the metal part of the carbon crank where the pedal spindle attaches) sheared off the crank. It's a five year old crank that I have used almost exclusively for cross. I am sure its seen its share of impacts, but am still a bit surprised. Maybe I should be more surprised that it lasted this long.

While the coin test is not foolproof, I recommend you check your carbon parts each season and a after crashes. I wish I had...

@PatrickGrehan, glad to hear you're more or less ok. And good thing the POC helmet did its job, time for the Kask helmet...

Oof, glad you're ok.  Had that happen to me during a commute one time and slammed into the side of the bus.  I'm a little more careful these days stomping on my pedals, but still, this type of catastrophic failure is unnerving. 

It only happens to the best.

Hmm, you mean I shouldn’t be drilling holes into my crank arms to make them lighter?

Wow I'm so glad you made it out (relatively?) unscathed. That seems like a very violent way to go down.

I also have a SRAM Quarq that looks carbon... so now I'm worried!

Curious though... is this the kind of thing that should come up in a bike servirse?

DiegoSanchez said:

Curious though... is this the kind of thing that should come up in a bike servirse?

No. Carbon fatigue is not always visible to the naked eye.

Will you buy SRAM again Jules?

JohnMalcolmson said:

Will you buy SRAM again Jules?

Heaven help me if I have to buy more parts. As it is I feel like I have a small bike shop in my basement. 

Anybody remember that weird plastic claw thingy you need to take the battery cover off a powertap hub? I seriously have one of those still, ffs.

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone tried time xpresso or speedplay pedal system before, thoughts? whats the biggest difference to shimano? As my Shimano pedals wore out, I am intrigued about other systems or should I stay with shimano. thanks!

ThomasChen said:

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone tried time xpresso or speedplay pedal system before, thoughts? whats the biggest difference to shimano? As my Shimano pedals wore out, I am intrigued about other systems or should I stay with shimano. thanks!

I'm a Speedplay fan.  Been on them for years.  Started with their X/2, and when the Zero came out, I switched to that.

compared to Shimano, it's lighter, has lower stack height, and better cornering clearance.  Double-sided is a plus for starting out.  Time is probably closer than Shimano to Speedplay on those things.  (The Speedplay inventor thinks the Time system is the second best to his, and he feels a bit bad that Time has been hurt by his success rather than the Shimano/Look system losing users)

One of the things I love about the Zero is how easy it is to dial in where my heels are relative to the cranks.  I just set the heel in limit screw so that my heel won't hit the crank when I'm wearing booties. Leave the heel out position way out so there's lots of room for your feet to float.  As you start to figure out where your ankle needs to be relative to the crank, you can reduce the play and reduce the play until you've got it right.

I think figuring the fore-aft is a bit harder with Speedplay because of the two-layer cleat, though if you get shoes with Speedplay-specific soles, it gets easier and the stack height is lower.  The only other critique of Speedplay is It probably necessitates a bit more frequent lubrication.  

Like JP says, Speedplays need lube. Every 6 months, otherwise they'll eventually seize, which makes for one shitty end to a ride/race. Whereas I have Time pedals on my beater that I haven't touched in 25 years.

Thanks. I guess the biggest problem for changing system is to position the new cleats. I will have another look.

JohnMalcolmson said:

Like JP says, Speedplays need lube. Every 6 months, otherwise they'll eventually seize, which makes for one shitty end to a ride/race. Whereas I have Time pedals on my beater that I haven't touched in 25 years.

I think I do mine every three, or when they're not smooth.  

I also think that most people don't replace cleats often enough.  I do it every 4-6 months.  

And they're totally rebuildable.  When the puck is worn, you don't have to replace the whole pedal, just the pucks. 

ThomasChen said:

Thanks. I guess the biggest problem for changing system is to position the new cleats. I will have another look.

Ilya at redbeard is specially good at finding the right place for cleats

eloy said:

ThomasChen said:

Thanks. I guess the biggest problem for changing system is to position the new cleats. I will have another look.

Ilya at redbeard is specially good at finding the right place for cleats

Or you can go full Hanson and just slam them back al the way run some 180 or bigger cranks... see you again after 20 consecutive tours!

I personally never took to the speed play pedal, although I do agree with all JP says above in terms of benefits
i always struggled engaging the cleat and much prefer a larger pedal platform.

I have mentioned before, on occasion I consult with the Hammerhead team on their Karoo cycle computer. 

They are looking for some riders that, ideally, are not very familiar with the Karoo to do some testing.

If you are interested please check this form:
https://forms.gle/dth4ZgaGSGzDvHfi7 

or please let me know eloy@groovylab.com or eloy.anzola@rga.com or 347.225.1058

--- was gonna post a GCN video about the computer, but then realized that their email read:  "We're looking for some riders who aren't terribly familiar with the Karoo to do some user testing" so if you see the video, maybe you don't qualify

lmk.

Need to change tires. Should I get 23mm or 25mm? What are your thoughts?

25. Vittoria Corsa. Order thru redbeard.

If you can fit 28s then get 28s.

Agreed^ def 25+. Been running 28 Corsa’s on my Allez/ Roval wheelset and I really like them! I’ve used them primarily for racing, but I’ve done a good deal of training miles on them as well and I only had one slow leak flat that I didn’t even notice until I was already at home (obv, n=1 or I guess 2?). three of us at Killington ran corsas and none of us flatted. Also bikes shouldn’t be run without tan sidewalls imo. 

That said, if RB still has that bonkers deal on the Conti GP4000s in 25s, id get those in a heartbeat. 

@RobertMullen
 You can fit 28s on the Allez, I may pick up a pair of 28 for myself then. How do they hold up in the winter?

@cpulvidente for sure! I have mine on pretty beefy Rovals so I think they widen out a good deal and I’ve got room.

And that’s a good question. The last pair I had lasted a pretty long time and when they started to show some wear, I ignored it and then got all the flats with @RichardCornetta and @mugwump. I don’t believe they’re the most durable tires on the market, but they hold their own from my experience. I think the gap between “nice” and “winter” tires has narrowed a bit. I’m sure others will have more insight. 

And Vitoria Corsa vs Conti GP5000? Any thoughts on that?

I have the GP5000s with tubes and they're awesome, can't comment on the Vittorias though. The GP's last forever and are pretty puncture proof in my experience.

Bicycle Rolling Resistance has a nice table: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/compare/continental-grand-prix-5000-tl-2018-vs-vittoria-corsa-speed-g2

I think you're looking at a slightly more supple and faster tire for Vittorias but less durable.

Same opinion on the 5000s as Will. I had one small pin hole flat on the GW (Rob was there) but otherwise they’ve been beyond reliable for many miles.

But if Redbeard still has the 4000s I’d get those in a heart beat (still have a few pairs knocking around that have been alive and kicking for years)- great price for a great tire