I usually pump my tires once on new year's day and then wait until april to add more air. I feel the aging process helps with both cushioning and cornering

never really sure why people are so obsessed with "new air"

lance mentioned it in 2006 and suddenly everyone wants to own their own "pump"

I pump my tires with epoxy cement. Heavy as hell. My tires don't deflect over bumps because they are rock-solid. Training advantage.

Just switched over to tubeless/tireless makes all the difference in the world. Doesn't roll as well but for the weight exchange its worth it.

hahaha i'll give it a try!

What options do I have if I need to replace the fork on my Cannondale System Six? I see Easton makes some tapered forks but they go for over $500... will the SuperSix Hi Mod forks work?

Posted By: John SandersonWhat options do I have if I need to replace the fork on my Cannondale System Six? I see Easton makes some tapered forks but they go for over $500... will the SuperSix Hi Mod forks work?

Any 1/8-1/2 taper will work. The super six fork, system 6. More and more companies are making tapered forks now that it's caught on with other companies besides Cannondale. ENVE, Whisky co., and others.

thanks mattie

I might go with this, looks legit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannondale-700c-Super-Six-Carbon-Road-Fork-Tapered-1-5-1-1-8-White-/220987634719?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3373e3b41f

At your size, I'd also skip the easton fork. By all reports, they're a bit on the flexy side.

Question for the forum:

Hypothetically speaking, if one's wife drove the van into the garage with your bike still on top, and said bike wound up lying on the pavement - completely torn free from the roof rack with nothing but scratches... and the lawyer tabs ripped clean off - what exactly would you check and how?

Take apart the headset and inspect the fork... shifting, brakes, etc. Good enough?

You should just file lawyer tabs off, it's a lot more straightforward

Posted By: Jules RoazenQuestion for the forum:

Hypothetically speaking, if one's wife drove the van into the garage with your bike still on top, and said bike wound up lying on the pavement - completely torn free from the roof rack with nothing but scratches... and the lawyer tabs ripped clean off - what exactly would you check and how?

Take apart the headset and inspect the fork... shifting, brakes, etc. Good enough?

Oof. Pull the fork, check for cracks/scratched along the crown and steerer. Check the underside on the headtube, and the entire length of the downtube for bulges/cracks. I'd probably change the fork no matter what.

Oh man, hopefully not a hypothetical R3. Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

t's already been to the shop, been fully stripped down (fork, headset, etc) and given the "all clear" whatever the fuck that means - I mean, can they see anything that isn't a full-on crack?
Number 1 reason I now hate black carbon bikes; very tough to spot a crack. I guess I'll order up a new fork just to be sure?

Order a new wife?

Anybody have a decent source for Speedplay Zero cleats? I generally have to replace them at least once a year, usually twice, and $40 a set is pricey. I got the cleat covers, but you just don't always have them around.

I can't really find any places online that sell them for less than the $39.95 range.

Thanks,
-j.

If Mueller can race with his cleat covers in his jersey ...

I even ran up a hill at Hurts-a-tun-ic with them on. Not my proudest moment but my cleats are still rocking.

hhhhhmmmmm. BB30 maintenance. Should I attempt it on my own? I have a wicked creak developing. my first instinct is to pull the cranks and just clean re-grease and reinstall. I don't have the bb30 extraction tool. Is is worth getting, or is this just going to turn into some crazy project.

Mike

All you should need to do is pull one crankarm and tap out the axle. Some cranks, like SRAM's, have the bolt threaded into the arm, so it backs itself out. When I had a BB30 SRAM, I used an 8mm to get off the arm and then a rubber mallet to tap out the crank. I think you should get the tool because pulling and regreasing should be fast and simple.

The extraction tool for the bearings is force. I have the tool.

Poweragent users with Macs:

Tried to download the newest version off the cycleops website, that didn't work. Then my older version of poweragent refuses to open up at all. Ideas?

Never mind...I dumped it, emptied the trash, tried the download again. All is okay. except, not thrilled with power agent's functionality or interface.

Power agent really blows.
After years of grumbling I paid the hundred bucks for wko+ and promptly began cursing the uber-shitty application landscape that is our to enjoy... It's better than power agent but still kinda sucks. Very windows 1990 and you need parallels to run it.

Marc,

get golden cheetah. it is way cool.


back to my BB30 question - FU FSA. 10mm allen wrench needed to remove crank. why can't they just keep it at the standard 8mm that I have?

10mm allen? Easy to find at auto-parts stores, both an L-shaped wrench and a socket for a torque wrench.

I know, just frustrating when I have everything from 8mm to that really tiny one. will grab one to add to my collection tomorrow.

go to Lowes DEpot and get one, plus a 10mm socket - much easier to use, IMHO.

Posted By: mperlberg

get golden cheetah. it is way cool.

Maybe, except you need a degree in computer science to figure out how/what to download. Plus, my Power Agent now doesn't recognize my device. Just when I thought my PT troubles were behind me. Khaaaaaaannnnn!

I remember calling Saris to inquire how big the power agent QA "team" was... One guy was running the whole thing.
Sigh.