Nothing on the market collects HRM data all day. Everyone is sampling, and everyone is siloing the data. It's crazy (but understandable to me) that you cannot download YOUR OWN HR data. Feels like it should be one lawsuit away from a "give me access to my own medical data" perspective.

Technically you could just have an activity running all day, then download the file to access the HR data.  But that's an annoying workaround that may not even work with device battery life.

Edit - it looks like you can access all-day HR with an Apple Watch, but you'll need to process the data yourself via XML:

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/253784566

^ Related HR question: is there a platform to capture/analyze chest strap HR data? Right now I am getting it thru Strava/Garmin, but I see only zones. Garmin is kind of lame. Is there something that can calculate anerobic threshold for example or analyze heart rate over time?

JohnMalcolmson said:

^ Related HR question: is there a platform to capture/analyze chest strap HR data? Right now I am getting it thru Strava/Garmin, but I see only zones. Garmin is kind of lame. Is there something that can calculate anerobic threshold for example or analyze heart rate over time?

You can always use Golden Cheetah or Training peaks to calculate HR based thresholds.

There is nothing on the market that I know of that gives you access to the atomic data. The last time I looked there were four marquee silos of HR data and they were definitely not sharing. They're happy to share summaries, but only in their own platforms and the best you can export is a csv of their summaries.

Garmin
Polar
Wahoo
... etc

Not sure if it fits your bill, but I use DC Rain maker's analyzer for digging into ride data.  It is subscription based, but it's like $20/year, so not bad.

WKO allows you to look at the raw data (HR, wattage, speed, etc.) and has lots of other capabilities, but can be costly. As mentioned above Golden Cheetah is open source and provides similar functionality

Note that there is a difference between HR data (which is collected every second or so by head units) and HRV data Jules notes is sampled by Whoop  before you wake up

Looping back on my HRM question. I picked up a fitbit Inspire 3 on black friday. DC Rainmaker gave it pretty high praise for accuracy, battery life (about 10 day advertised life), capabilities and for $65 I was willing to roll the dice. So far, I have to say I'm pretty impressed. I'm using it without the fitbit subscription and based on what is included in the subscription itself, I'll likely pass on ever buying it.

I did some rudimentary accuracy tests and it seems good. Compared to the data from my chest strap when I rode yesterday, it was within 1-4 beats while working out (call that the margin of error for both devices) and my data throughout the rest of day was pretty close to my last day of Whoop data. The sleep data/hrv also are within the ballpark of what my Whoop was giving me so color me impressed so far. I still have a couple of days left on my Whoop subscription so I may wear both to sleep tonight and compare the two.

Some of the additional features like having texts/calls pop up, move reminders and the like I can take or leave. My wrist constantly buzzing for one reason or another is already getting annoying so I'll likely turn those notifications off. The other features like alarms and countdown timers are nice, but nothing revolutionary and the fitbit app is a solid okay. It takes a bit to get rid of the stuff you don't want and streamline it so that useful info is at the forefront, but once you organize it how you like, it gets the info you want in front of your face quickly. My least favorite part is that you need to take it off to charge and its a proprietary cable so it's one more thing to remember to bring with you if you go anywhere for a bit of time. That said, mine charged from 17% to 100% in about an hour or so today so it goes quickly.

If you're looking for a wearable without a monthly subscription, I'd recommend this little guy especially if you can pick it up on sale. 

Hi Team, any chance someone in Brooklyn or Manhattan has one of those feedback sports rear wheel trainers? (or similar)

Looking for something to help me warm up on CX Nationals -- would pick Wednesday or Early Thursday, return over the weekend. 

Please let me know know thanks!

Eloy - I don't have that but I have a Cyclops turbo trainer you are welcome to borrow.

Thanks, Jim, appreciate it. I have an old school dumb trainer I can bring, just thinking thru the logistics on how to attach the thru axle to the trainer, and some sort of roller(ish) would be so much easier. 

@eloy I've got some regular rollers if that works for ya.  Not sure how that'd work with knobby CX tires though...

eloy said:

Thanks, Jim, appreciate it. I have an old school dumb trainer I can bring, just thinking thru the logistics on how to attach the thru axle to the trainer, and some sort of roller(ish) would be so much easier. 

Ah, makes sense. Probably why we see these at the cross races....  Good luck up there!

@GregHoge thanks, weather on the day made it easy to just warm up on the road. Appreciate the offer.

Does anyone know if disc brake hoses are reusable? The internet seems divided with some saying no problem, others saying just cut a small portion and replace the olive and others saying replace the whole line. I’m upgrading to di2 so I’m not sure if I can reuse the hoses or if I need to run ones (reusing would definitely be easier because of the internal routing)

New brake levers are generally a good excuse to change the cables, sometimes new levers even come with the hoses already attached (altho ironically you likely need to detach to install) — all this to say that there are good reasons to install new hoses.

Else, brake cable hoses are totally reusable.

keep in mind that the system is usually sealed by squishing the olive thingahoop so that needs to be new (like you said, cut a small piece of hose on each end and install new olives) 

Thank ya sir! I was between replacing the olive vs the whole hose so I guess we'll see if the levers/calipers come with new hoses and then I'll make my final decision

As long as you have enough length and the hoses aren't chewed up anywhere, they should be good to use with a new olive and barb.

worth mention, that's the virtue of hydraulic brakes and electronic shifting, ideally, you never have to replace a cable ever again 

that's the gameplan- I have a shiny new Ultegra 12 speed groupset coming my way so I'll post pictures as I install and build up it up on my bike

I just built up a new 12 speed SRAM force group set on my road bike , but I ended up having my LBS do the hydraulic hose install , which I’ve found intimidating 
investing in a bleed kit as I’m now sram on both cross and road , no excuses to learn this in the new year 

@Mark Taylor GCN, Parktool and GP Lama's various videos make the process seem pretty straightforward and manageable as long as you have the right tools. I plan on turning back to these videos plenty in the next week or so to make sure I have the process right

I got a sram bleed kit and have bled my cyclocross brakes a couple of times.

One suggestion is to get the best syringes you can afford. The plunger seals are not as tight on cheap plastic syringes, so the same process used to remove air can actually introduce it, which is obviously annoying.

A whole other topic, is what a season or two of cyclocross sand and mud and washes can do to the calipers and pistons... I might be on the verge of discovering that, just like cantis, I might need to replace the full rear brake for a brand new one every few seasons.

Naturally, once committed, the Gods sting.

I've been running road tubeless road for a few months now.  Decided I should commit a bit longer, so when I was at Hilltop on Thursday night, I bought a pair of S-Works turbo road tubeless.  

So, naturally, I had a slow leak yesterday, which held.  

And then got a bigger cut today, in the rain, which did not.  Good thing it was only a cool rain.

I stopped to pump up the tire multiple times.  the later times, I would place the cut at the bottom, hoping that would seal it.  Nope.  I think the cut is about 2mm across, which I think is on the larger side of what sealant can handle on a road bike.  

I came home and decided to try a plug.  I didn't have it with me on the road.  The plug only seemed to make things worse.  I took off the tire and glued a patch on the inside, it seems to hold.

so, for those with more road tubeless experience, have you tried plugging holes on the road?  What works, what doesn't?  

I would even bother with a road tire , just stick a tube in 
gravel and MTB tire I use a plug 

Agree with Mark... put in a tube.

I'd never been able to effectively use a plug, when I flat with tubeless, it typically has been one of these:

1. Flatted and the sealant fixed it almost immediately. Likely wont realize until I am home and notice sealant on the frame
2. The sealant fixes it but only at low pressure. Putting more air just causes the air to scape until some low pressure when it holds -- This has happened a few times, usually holds aroud 35-40ish psi on the road, 20ish some on gravel/cx. Good enough to just finish the ride, go home, or to a bike shop. where you'll add a tube or patch the tire internally
3. Sealant tries but no dice. Only solution is to add a tube to continue or finish the ride. You can usually patch the tire internally.

Patching tubeless tires totally works, but like any other tire, multiple punctures are a good indicator that is time to replace the tire.

Sunday I noticed my back tire was low coming south on 9W. Seemed to be holding where it was so I kept riding. Used the pump at Hudson Bikes to bring it up from about 30psi to 70psi (which is where it was to start the day). I couldn't find the hole at the time and didn't see it when I got home either. I assume its very small and sealant just did it's job.

Lars van der Haar's Trek Boone, with new unique sram shifters...
https://road.cc/content/tech-news/new-sram-etap-axs-shifters-spotted-298013

This is behind Bicyling's paywall, so I don't actually have access -- but bicycling has an article about the new Shimano 105 12 speed mechanical (not DI2) with hydraulics brakes.
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a42389360/shimano-105-12-speed-mechanical/

https://youtu.be/juHlpsdnUzM

So this is a new one for me. I got new chainrings, install went fine and when I was putting the crank back on the self extracting bolt somehow sheared off -_- (I wasn’t even close to the torque setting for the crank so I’m generally confused on why the bolt went- maybe corrosion, maybe age, maybe a combo?)

Either way, a new self extracting bolt is on the way but I can’t find any videos or manuals explaining how to install this (the most I’ve been able to dig up is Calvin Jones at park tool saying don’t undo it when taking the crank off). I figure when I take the old one out, I can remember the order things are in and repeat that but any help/advice would be appreciated.