Posted By: twoyackshttp://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/news/giro-tech-rise-of-the-25c-tire_218011

They forgot to mention me riding my 25mm tires this morning at Prospect....soooo smoooooottthhhhhhh

I've been on 25s for at least 2 seasons now. Love em, between those and wider clincher rims, paradigms shifting!

ditto

intersting, I am on 22mm tubies with normal 21mm wide rims - fine by me. though I do like fatter tires. fattie likes fatter tires - HA!!!
maybe next pair of tubies...

I have raved about these lights before. Love them.

They are on sale. I would strongly recommend that anyone who commutes gets one. Really, best lights I ever had, by far.

http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=821c7f91245541b26efac4d47&id=5add72ce30&e=faf62b915a

@Adam: Which pattern do you use?

I have it on random. It flicks between the 12 or so patterns on there. I personally like the Space Invaders pattern, as it is intimidating to motorists, and dislike the hearts pattern, as it is of negligible intimidation value.

I will try to head out to our next Kissena meet up on my bike with this light to show it off. Great piece of kit.

Man those carbon only brake pads are 'spensive! I really would like to get a vote from the vox pop here before I commit - what are you all using on your carbon rims?
OEM?
koolstop?
swissstop?
TRP?
Zipp?

zipp

swissstop yellow seems to be the choice of pros

Go with your rim manufacturer's suggestion first.

The SwissStop yellows have worked well for me on Lightweights, Mavics, and Zipps. I'm now playing around with SwissStop/Zipp Platinum pads. They work very well in the dry and wet (tested out today) on Zipp rims. Problem is, they're not supposed to be good on aluminum rims. This is a problem for some racing--what if you get a wheelchange in a race and are handed an aluminum rim? I'm probably going to stick to racing the yellow pads because I know these will work with aluminum.

On Zipp's Firecrest, I've also used cork and it seemed to work fine in the dry. I haven't yet had a chance to test them out in the wet.

I also think that Koolstop probalby makes the TRP pads. They definitely make the Zipp black multi-use pads.

I use Swissstop yellow. These were the choice of pro's in 2010, but I see and hear that there are better compounds out there now (better in the wet and less grabby in dry).

Shimano have some blue pads for carbon.
Zipp has a new platinum compound
Reynolds has a new model too

I've never tried the above, but there is a fair amount of noise in reviews,etc that all of these newer pads are a step up.

Wheel covers - what's the verdict? Useful?
I always thought the big advantage of a disk was the weight as much as the aerodynamics
I'm looking for a cheap yet effective solution for the TT's in Killington and Catskills. Quick upgrade for a 32 spoke box rim Power Tap.

depends on the course. If it's flat, yes, great. If rolling to hilly, depends on the gradient and how fast you go uphill.

Killington & TOC are both flat. So verdict is wheel covers are a benefit?

in other news, I have two new yet flat Tubulars for anyone who has time to spend repairing such things. One tiny glass hole in each.

Wheel covers = ghetto fast

Tubular repair, some guy in florida. Others have success with sealant. Eric has the valve core remover tool to make it a little easier.

I'm down with fast.
Tubular repair in Florida? That seems a bit much.

The wheelbuilder covers have a good rep. What makes them good is they're cut for specific wheels.

The sealant try seems worth it to me. You can get pit stop or any number of other brands. It helps to put the tire on a rim though. And after you put in the sealant, pump up the tire to full pressure, spin it for several revolutions and find the tiny hole and put htat hole at hte bottom so the sealant will pool on it.

Does this count as tech? We should send this guy a jersey or something...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=pyrKKeMzP9Y

I've known Jules for a bit longer than most folks here, and so I can say the following with some degree of confidence: He found that video on one of his "Canada leaf t-shirt" Google binges. Don't take the bait.

Hilarious

to which the only response is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBOxGFA7Oig

On the subject of Speedplay maintnance...

http://velocitynation.com/content/equipment/2011/speedplay-rebuild-mark-purdy

From what I've read, Wheelbuilder wheel covers have great wind tunnel numbers... according to er... them:
http://www.wheelbuilder.com/store/aerodisc-data.html

Ask Donovan. Go wings!

GREAT SCOTT !!!!!

http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/technology-blog/delorean-making-comeback-stainless-steel-bike-164751897.html

1.21 Gigawatts!

What's the word with BB30 and press fit 30 bottom bracket standards?

First: Are they two non-compatible standards?

I'm considering getting a quarq for my cannondale bb30 frame. Now that there are so many competing bottom bracket standards, I'm getting a bit nervous that as soon as I invest in a bb30 quarq the standard is going to go obsolete.

Is Cannondale sticking with it? are other manufacturers sticking with it?

JP?

Posted By: mperlbergWhat's the word with BB30 and press fit 30 bottom bracket standards?

First: Are they two non-compatible standards?

I'm considering getting a quarq for my cannondale bb30 frame. Now that there are so many competing bottom bracket standards, I'm getting a bit nervous that as soon as I invest in a bb30 quarq the standard is going to go obsolete.

Is Cannondale sticking with it? are other manufacturers sticking with it?

JP?

bb30 and pf30 use the same cranks/bearings. The difference is that in a bb30 frame, the bearings ride straight in the frame. In pf30, the bearings ride in a sleeved insert, and the whole insert is pressed into the frame. Theoretically, pf30 is a little nicer because you don't have to worry about ovalising the frame from knocking bearings in and out constantly, tolerances don't have to be quite as tight (less creaks) and the frame can be slightly lighter since you don't need an aluminum insert for the bearings to press into. The new SuperSix evos are PF30. But again, TL;DR, cranks are the same, so that standard going away shouldn't be a concern.

@ Mattie - so if I bought a bb30 quarq, I could use it in a bb fress fit frame if the standard went that way?

Ragot was explaining to me that bb30 frames are a pain because it is very difficult to align the bearings. does the press fit solve that issue?

Mike,
Yes.

As for Ragot's assessment, I daresay he's mistaken. My CX bike had the bearings set by the shop i got the frame at and it has been fine for four years now. I expect to need to service the new BB30 road bike more because I ride it more, but I don't forsee any problems and am thinking of buying the requisite tools to do it myself. Park makes a puller tool that comes with setting cups. It's $36 retail. You use the rings either with a headset press or you ghetto it with a long bolt and some washers from a hardware store which will might cost as much as another $10.

Mattie didn't mention another big deal of pressfit. It's cheaper to fabricate. For BB30, they have to use a shell and machine in two grooves for the circlips that the bearings press against. So with PressFit 30, you don't need the shell, you don't need the machined grooves. You just need two parallel 30mm openings that have a lip the PF cups can sit against. So ultralight frames will see more and more PF30s because they can be lighter and open up design possibilities. At the same time, I think it will take a while for PF30 to unseat BB30.

Cannondale will stick with BB30 for aluminum frames is my guess. For ultralight carbon fiber, they're probably going to be PF30 from hereon, unless the industry congregates around BB386EVO or BBRight. Making the success of PF30 seem more likely is I hear Cervelo is coming up with a NEW BBRight.