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Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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I meant the ceramic one rather than unsealed one...

I am blissfully ignorant about Shimano (and iPhones), but get TACX derailleur pulleys.

Maybe try some penetrating lubricant, like WD40, and let it soak in overnight. Then lube again with something like triflow.


Rick did you check for mice?
With the bushing pulley, clean out with a Q-tip and degreaser.  Air-dry, a lube like triflow, or phil wood tenacious oil will do the trick.

For the bearing pulley, you can pry off the seal with a razor blade.  Try to degrease, sit, blow out with air, air dry, and then use a lube like above.  Push back on the seal last.  

I'm also a fan of the Tacx pulleys.  They make both 11- and 10-tooth versions.  
Does any key know the difference between "Gator Skins" and "Gator Hardshell?"
Hardshell is Gator skin plus some more.

The Gatorskin has long been a favorite of riders looking for a durable tire that preserves ride quality and now Continental has added even more flat protection with the Gator Hardshell.

Three types of anti-flat breakers are used starting with a bead to bead top layer of Duraskin using a polyamide fabric to protect the casing against cuts, punctures and abrasions. The next layer is the deeper Hardshell core which is a super-tough layer that extends into the sidewall without tacking on too much weight weight or sacrificing suppleness. Finally, the PolyX breaker further wards off flats directly under the tread using tightly woven polyester fibers often used in automobile tires that also preserve ride quality.

The only thing wrong with the above quote is the statement they make about 'preserves ride quality'. I found gatorskins to ride dreadfully, they were hard, uncomfortable and were a bit 'squirrely' in the wet.
I could improve all of the negative factors by reducing to about 80-85 psi, but i think there are much better winter tires out there (Schwalbe durano is pretty good and the Vittoria Pave is excellent).

I also once totally failed to mount a pair on a campy neutrons. They simply would not go on, even with tire irons.
I ride 25mm Gatorskin Hardshells over the winter. They ride better than Specialized Armadillos. In fact, with 80-85 psi, they don't feel bad at all. I'm on my second winter on the same pair, and haven't flatted one yet. Probably wouldn't race a rainy crit on them.
Everything rides better than the Armadillos.  Probably the worst tire I've ever tried.  Took out the Vittoria Rubino 25's last weekend and liked them so far.  A bit heavy, but rolled/cornered well from what I could tell and look durable.  No more 20 minute 35b degree icy tire changes, right JP?
Please!

If you can't change a tire in less than five minutes, practice before the winter gets here.  

The rubinos ride pretty well, though I'm probably going to switch out for Conti' four seasons or my folding Armadillos when winter arrives.  The original Armadillos rode like the solid rubber tires I had on my Schwinn Pixie, and I had the 26mm tires which barely fit into my steel Merckx.  They weighed something like 420g per tire.  I interviewed Mike Sinyard several years ago and discussed how bad the original tires were.  He told me the newer tires rode much better and sent me a pair of the folding ones.  THey do ride much better, but not like a race tire.
I think the Maxxis ReFuse are not bad either. in 25mm they didn't ride too bad (better than the conti gatorskins I had) and were easy enough to mount and I think I got mine for less than $30 each, so they are somewhat of a bargain.
michelin krylion carbon I think other winter tires are overkill. I never flat on these and they ride much closer to a real tire than a typical armadillo or gator skin.
I ReFuse to comment for fear of jinxing myself.
I concur with ian on the ReFuse 25s
Refuse is garbage.
True. But it could also mean that they 'refuse" to flat.
offal is garbage too and it's awful
Second the ReFuse in the 25, not like rocking the open tubluars but still a reasonable tire that will last longer than a week and stays mostly flat free for a winter.
How do I know when to or how often do I need to aqua-seal my dugasts?

Is there any preparation I need to do to them beforehand?
Dugasts tires?? Fancy.......!
Jules said:
How do I know when to or how often do I need to aqua-seal my dugasts?

Is there any preparation I need to do to them beforehand?
Yes, First check to see if champagne beads up on the sidewalls of your dugasts, if yes, you can ride a little longer on your fancy tires. if it soaks in, blot gently to prevent staining, then aqua-seal. As for pre-prep. before starting take out an oz of caviar (beluga preferred but osetra will do in a pinch), and have on toast points, because you want to be fueled up before the difficult task ahead.

Apply aqua-seal on your sidewalls using a brush.

Return to quaffing champagne...
Jules said:
How do I know when to or how often do I need to aqua-seal my dugasts?

Is there any preparation I need to do to them beforehand?
Yes, First check to see if champagne beads up on the sidewalls of your dugasts, if yes, you can ride a little longer on your fancy tires. if it soaks in, blot gently to prevent staining, then aqua-seal. As for pre-prep. before starting take out an oz of caviar (beluga preferred but osetra will do in a pinch), and have on toast points, because you want to be fueled up before the difficult task ahead.

Apply aqua-seal on your sidewalls using a brush.

Return to quaffing champagne...
Well played sir. Now go back to color coordinating you tweed and bar tape combinations you godless hipster and leave me to this wretched business of *once again* explaining to Jeeves that the Bugatti is to be parked in the east wing garage while the Maybach belongs at the indoor track.
So I got a SRAM Red Quarq. I have removed and installed the Force cranks I am replacing dozens of times, always in a minute or two. I can't get the side to side play out of the Quarq. Ragot says there's a spacer that comes with it. I didn't get one. It wasn't in the box. This a GXP internal press fit 86 mm BB, with the GXP quarq, of course. Quarqs phone number hasn't been working. Does anyone have a picture of this spacer or something so I can at least know what I'm looking for?
is the Quarq GXP or BB30?
Gxp of course
http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/22439684.jpg
I think this might help.

http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/ZSoW_BrV0A9JwlOS8-IsmP_pCiGJWNIw5g5hlp962BY/mtime:1297962097/sites/default/files/techdocs/RED Crank BB PRINT.pdf
Thanks guys, (especially you, Jeff). 

I realized there are separate instructions for the GXP and the PFGXP. I need the PFGXP, and I think what's missing is this little squiggly in the green rectangle, which I believe is what they call a wavy washer/spacer. I think it may actually be a part of the bottom bracket that's missing and maybe for some reason just worked with the force cranks but won't with the Quarq.


image
I have a wavy around, I think...
You absolutely need the wavy washer. This seems to be standard piece of all modern cranks. Both my older Campy external bearings cranks and my newer FSA BB30 have this. Not sure if it comes as part of the bottom  bracket or the cranks. Bike shop will probably have one. They don't seem very special.