I'll port mine, the only swag I seem to score are piles of stickers and chamois creme samples. I'm doin it wrong.

please bring me back one of each flavor

I would like u to find Tyler's vanishing twin....or some good bike computer options. sigma keeps upgrading my computer when I send it in for service...I'm on my 3rd upgrade and I now have their top o the line model Roc 9.1 which works really good on paper. They are plaqued by sensor drop off. I'm going back to my cateye triple wireless and my old faithful Polar Coach hr meter which downloads using my computer microphone....ancient technology but dependable.

I thinking of dropping money on this for winter training- apart from the fact that it may need a new battery. will it need re-calibration and things? is that easy to do?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PowerTap-SL-Comp-Wired-Powertap-MAVIC-Open-Pro-SSC-wheel-700c-Campagnolo-Saris-/320981852082?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abc025fb2

@mugwump - more info on the Stage Cycling StageONE power meter. Seems like a cool crank based power meter at fairly low cost:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/interbike-2012-tech-stages-cycling-stageone-power-meter

good idea or something a little silly?

http://gearjunkie.com/icedot-helmet-crash-sensor

Cheeky question.  Give me free stuff to use!!

how tall are you?

5'10".  I ride a 56 cm road bike.  Not to sure what conversion to MTB that would be...

Coming soon to a peleton (or hole shot) near you:

Need new road shoes. Been riding the heat mold able shimanos for about 5 years. Velcro is cooked. How are the lake shoes? Shimanos gave me no troubles. I Hear the boa system can shit the bed. I ride speedplays so the lake shoes wih speedplay soles interest me. Yacks

I miss my shimano shoes...once you find kicks that fit you well, I wouldn't risk changing. Replacing Velcro on shoe straps seems like something most any NYC shoe cobbler type could fix...or maybe the person who does your alterations on finer clothes?

The cobbler isn't the problem on replacing velcro.  It's the velcro.  I've never been able to source the right stuff.

Drats I'm a 46...also I need a wide width...likey go shimano agin

tandem cx or mtb needed for Staten Cross

Uh oh, looks like Joe and I have some competition!

@JeffOwens I'm getting the sticks to throw in wheels ready now. 

Just mounted my winter training tires. Get this.

I just glued my first set of tubulars in over 30 years, and I am looking for a little guidance. At some points along the tire, there is a tiny gap, just enough to slip a toothpick or the edge of a piece of paper, where the tire meets the rim. I don't know if this is acceptable for 'cross tubulars. That said, I rode them Saturday at Cunningham in the trails, which is probably more technical and twisty than anything we race on, and I'm still here...Can anyone give me some advice?? Also, when checking them, how much hand pressure should be put on them?? I want to use enough pressure, but at the same time, I don't want to pull them off...Back in the old days, we put glue on the rim, none on the tire, slapped them together, inflated, and went......without a helmet.

p.s. I did put a little glue into those spots using a syringe, and will let it cure for a couple days before checking them

add some glue to the spots. need an unbroken seal to prevent water getting in there

Oh god yes. Someone buy me this for Xmas please!

http://meli-melo.typepad.com/.a/6a0147e3b2d8b0970b017c318ba9ba970b-pi

KILL IT WITH FIRE!

Came across this by accident on eBay.  a super-strong cadence magnet that can mount to the inside of your pedal--no zip tie and can be mounted an inch from the sensor.

Sounds like extra work to push the pedal past the sensor.

but you'll get a boost to the sensor.  

has anyone ever gotten a bike fitting at Ride brooklyn? if so who did it,Miguel or Al? ...thoughts? they use the Serotta system and the price is right at $160. 

You could try a pedal system that has little to no float in the cleat. That should hold your foot in a fixed orientation, which might feel strange to you, but would prevent the contact with the crank.

@jp. I was just trying to be a Maxwell's daemon.

I have iclic2 racers for pedals. I've futzed around with left cleat position turning toe in/heal out and that helped keep the heel from banging. But my knee started to hurt a little so I moved it back somewhat

Rick, if you have the iClic, you can swap your cleats to move your Q-factor out or in, and there's the guide on the washer to adjust up to 5-degrees of cant.  Have you tried these?