You don't need a speed sensor with a hub-based system. That's why they're sold separately.

You also don't need a cadence sensor with a hub-based system. The algorithm they use is spot-on.  But you may want the speed sensor if you don't race with your PT wheel.

I plan on getting a cateye stealth 50. Cost $120 with ride Brooklyn discount, a cycleops powercal $80 with team deal and garmin speed cadence sensor $35. The cateye is ant plus and has power reading and GPS. So $235 for the set up. Powercal does a good job at extended efforts....shorter intervals not good. DC Rainmaker did a review and the power readings seem consistent if not accurate. I think the powercal is better for training than hr alone....not as good as a strain gauge power meter. I would say powercal training vs true power meter training = 80% of the benefits with 10% of the cost....the power cal is a hr strap so even of you wind up getting a real power meter you can still use the hr strap. another option is a wind trainer with power readings. They are getting cheaper and are great for doing power intervals. Yacks

@ Jules-Interesting. Pretty site, not cheap, no dealers east of Oklahoma.

@yacks:  Can I assume that the garmin speed/cadence sensor is ANT+ and will therefore work with any compatible computer (e.g. cycleops joule). They only mention compatibility with garmin devices on their website.

I have a powertap training wheel, but don't always want to ride it (like in races or when I'm too lazy to switch between tires suitable for my trainer and for the road).

OK, never mind. This web site explains it all.
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2011/07/ant-bike-speedcadence-sensor-everything.html

for those having Garmin Soft strap issues:

twoyacks said:

http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126200267&TID=367&gclid=CJv2pJCNkbUCFdOf4AodIEUAWg

Yaks is that website a parody?

No you scoundrel !

Slight dilemma

This piece below, which sits on the outside of the locknut on my DA Front hub was lost, it's not the entire cone, just a small serrated washer thing.  I've been trying to source it but the only thing I can find is the whole locknut and cone which is over 45 dollars.

Even though the wheel clamps in OK without it, I don't want to risk it since the fork isn't contacting a large area like it would with the washer...

Are there any cheap alternatives for this, or maybe someone has a trashed hub I could scavenge from?  Perhaps I don't really need it? 

I read this and now I'm curious if anyone has paid for these reports.

I'm kind of interested. I could use an extra 7W.

I have.  is knowledge of 7w worth $10?  

The lube results are in the print version of this months Velo. Interesting stuff, and my bet is that they will follow up with other drivetrain parts in subsequent issues. Bottom line: parafin wax is best by a mile, in both efficiency and durability in nasty race conditions. Its the one that chops 6 watts. ProGold Prolink is a decent 2nd place, though maybe not the best in nasty conditions.

joaquin,

@mugwump, you're right, it was rock n roll gold in second. Parafin sounds nifty, if you can spare an hour to lube your chain. Might make sense for ultra A priority races, I guess, or perhaps if using a rotation of chains. Also a great candidate for CX, what with the muck and all.

It also has the potential to cause your apartment to explode. Very meth labesque.

@mugwump, what other FF reports did you order (if any)? Worthwhile?

Bought them all.  I think it was $10.  Yes, worthwhile, though nothing is earth-shifting.  

Converting a powertap from shimano to campy.... easy as swapping out the cassette body that pops out and replacing? Or more complex?

depends on the model and year.

Hey seeking opinions again...

I'm intrigued by the new 510 with it's touch screen magic. Anyone have actual experience with the technology? Maybe someone out there riding a Garmin 800?

Also, thinking about PT wheels...what's the bomb-proof set up? Is Wheel Builder the guy to go through? Does he "match" our discount from PT? Anyone riding the alloy wheel from PT directly?

I got the PT with Mavic Open Pro alloy rims. They feel like a training wheel should. The rim is wide, in case you like that new fashion. I actually got a wheel set, because the discount at the time  was so sweet. No complaints so far, except that the rim strip that they provided was installed badly and I got a couple of flats (from underneath) until I realized what was going on and put in a new one.

If your riding 10 speed, it will work in campy or Shimano. Just adjust derailleur to match middle cogs.

When i got my powertap wheel it was fitted w/ shimano and bought a campy hub body on ebay for 30dollars- all I had to go it pop the old one out and lock the new one in- that's it. 10speed that was.

And there's a third option, a conversion cassette--splined for Shimano, spaced for Campy.

My SRAM Rival brake hood split in 2 places after 10 months.  Should I anticipate having to replace them this often?