Feb 05, 2013 at 02:28 PM
(it was the one on the right)
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Feb 05, 2013 at 02:37 PM
Hey, guys. What software do you use for analyzing data from a Garmin? I'm on an Apple computer, and just bought a 500.
Feb 05, 2013 at 02:52 PM
Feb 05, 2013 at 03:03 PM
Brendan,
Brake hoods are replaceable. 10 months seems a bit short, but replacement interval varies tremendously.
Nathaniel,
I'm a big fan of WKO+. But it's pc-specific so you need to have Parallels or Fusion, and it is really geared toward power meter users.
I also use Garmin Training Center for its mapping and Garmin Connect. Garmin is ok for ride data and looking at intervals, not good if you want to create charts. If you want to explore more cloud options, take a look into the free version of Map My Ride.
Feb 05, 2013 at 05:25 PM
Frankencassete?
Fearing the hills to come this Sunday, I think I want to get myself a better option than the 11-23 I'm currently running in the rear. Luckily, I own two PG1070 cassettes: an 11-23, and a 12-26. I own these two similar cassette sizes due to bike shop error (they built bike with wrong cassette, by the time I noticed I was in GA for the summer and when I got back it was too used to swap out. The gave me free Red derailleur to make me feel better. It made me feel better.)
According to SRAM's description of the cogs in each cassette, I have all the individual cog sizes I need to assemble an 11-26 cassette using SRAM's own cog configuration for that size: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-26. I would simply swap the 16 for a 17, the 17 for a 19, and then plop on the 21-23-26 from the 12-26 cassette.
Has anyone got experience amalgamating cassettes? Is this a terrible idea? The cassettes are about equally worn.
Can I just add the 11 cog onto the outside of the 12? It looks like the outermost 2 cogs on each cassette are more robust and do not use the aluminum spacers. I'll fiddle with the two cassettes later tonight.
Feb 05, 2013 at 05:31 PM
FWIW- I like my PG1070 12-26 as is. The 12 means you spin out a little sooner on fast downhills. I also find myself using the 16 a lot
Feb 05, 2013 at 06:26 PM
12-26 is totally fine. It's not like you are going to get dropped on the downhill.
For campy cassettes, the neighboring cogs do make a difference. There is some magic formula with a's and b's. Not sure about that other cr*p.
Feb 05, 2013 at 06:51 PM
Assuming you have a 52 or 53 up front and not a 50 then you really don't need an 11. In fact as Rick highlights you get the 16 with the 12-26 and that is much more useful.
Feb 05, 2013 at 07:41 PM
Thanks everyone for the input and information. I'll likely proceed with the experiment despite the complete lack of necessity. I hazard this audience understands better than most the urge to undertake inconvenient alterations to one's bicycle without a guarantee of tremendous, or even marginal, payoff. Then again, maybe I'm just crazy...
Feb 05, 2013 at 08:57 PM
@Brendan-What you say is undoubtedly true about "the urge to undertakealterations." But whatever you do, please resist the urge to drill holes in your crankarms, bars, fork, and seatpost as weight saving measures. Folks tried that in the 1970's with some cool looking, but scary dangerous, results. http://ww.tarckbike.com/node/14073
Feb 05, 2013 at 09:04 PM
Feb 05, 2013 at 10:17 PM
@Neilx That is ridiculous! I can promise you i'll never undertake such a suicidal project...and not just because I don't have a drill. Because I prefer riding on my bike, not directly on the asphalt
Feb 06, 2013 at 12:43 PM
(the homemade 11-26 cassette works like a charm. turns out the outer 3 cogs are unique, so if you wanted to change those, there might be trouble, but here all i did was switch out one cog fairly deep into the cassette, where identical aluminum spacers are used)
Feb 06, 2013 at 05:38 PM
^nice one!
Feb 07, 2013 at 09:09 PM
I am about to enter the exciting world of mediocre power guesstimation...
Feb 07, 2013 at 09:27 PM
three instructions...too complicated for me. I'll let you techies take this on.
Feb 07, 2013 at 09:54 PM
I've wanted to try this running because I don't know if I should put strain gauges on my legs or my feet.
Feb 07, 2013 at 10:28 PM
since this thing is supposed to work with any ant enabled device...you are welcome to borrow it JP... anyone is welcome to try it out...think of my power cal as the village bicycle, everyone gets a ride...Yeah Baby...Yeah !!!!
Feb 08, 2013 at 12:18 AM
lol yacks madman lol
Feb 09, 2013 at 03:48 AM
Electric shavers. Any recs? I've been a razor user for a long time but would like a speedier option for the legs.
Feb 09, 2013 at 04:04 AM
mike
dude
never go full retard
Feb 09, 2013 at 04:05 AM
hair clippers. I've been doing the first round with a battery-operated one for years. It's dying, so I'm going to find an electric replacement soon.
Feb 09, 2013 at 10:17 AM
FYI, Manhattan Macy's has an old-school counter tucked away on one of their upper floors where they not only sell electric razors/clippers, but they do repairs/sharpening as well.
Feb 09, 2013 at 12:27 PM
FYI this stuff is amazing
Feb 09, 2013 at 12:40 PM
oh that happened a long time ago.WilliamDC said:mikedudenever go full retard
Feb 09, 2013 at 02:46 PM
Is electric faster? I would not have thought that.
Feb 09, 2013 at 04:05 PM
another quick question: I thought I was sucking really hard this week until I realized the cadence magnet to my quarq had come free of its little putty position and was affixed to the bottom bracket bearings. the good news is that I'm not putting out only 220 watts for 20 minute intervals @ 180 bpm HR. the bad news is this is a pain in the ass to get back in the correct position.
basically I need to remove the cranks, scrape off the old putty, and re-do the whole process.
is there a better solution? It seems like this is a real design flaw on QUARQs part.
Feb 09, 2013 at 04:30 PM
I am trying to swap out the BB30 crank on my new Cannondale so I can install my Quarq and I'm a little stuck. At first it looked like I could just use a 10 mm hex on the drive side, remove the spider, and then slide it right out through the other side (this is how my Force GXP was on my Giant, it was very easy).
So I removed the drive side crank and spider, but it seems clear there is something else that needs to be loosened because it won't slide out. Not easily, anyway. The obvious thing would be to loosen the non-drive side crank (but there'a big old "do not remove" there, as you can see in the pictures). I'm just nervous about experimenting on the brand new bike so I want to be sure I know what I'm doing.
I haven't yet found a clear explanation online. The pics show pretty clearly where I am in the process. Any help much appreciated.
Feb 09, 2013 at 04:31 PM
Pic 2
Feb 09, 2013 at 04:32 PM
Pic 3
thanks
