Apr 19, 2013 at 01:08 AM
Used mine today. The Rock n Roll Spider Web grease tube also fits on my injector head.
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Apr 19, 2013 at 01:57 AM
This evening my quarq chose to be a tremendous dick. It was fine for 30 or so mins and then right in the middle of an interval it started doing odd things. Basically every few mins the cadence reading would go to zero (with power quickly dropping to zero), sit at zero for maybe 1 or 2 seconds, and then correct itself.
I tried an auto and manual zero with no joy. This went on for maybe 45 mins and then all of a sudden it seemed to right itself. Odd. Anyone seen these kind of shenanigans before? I am guessing it has something to do with the cadence magnet but before I go down that path I wanted to see whether anyone has experienced similar issues.
Apr 19, 2013 at 02:22 AM
What head unit?
Apr 19, 2013 at 02:30 AM
Check and possibly replace battery.
Check and possibly replace firmware.
Unfortunately, for both, you need Qalvin and a Wahoo fitness dongle.
Apr 19, 2013 at 04:07 AM
Mark, that happens to my Quarq maybe once every two months. Don't know why either, but usually it corrects itself quickly before another ride.Mark Clifford said:This evening my quarq chose to be a tremendous dick. It was fine for 30 or so mins and then right in the middle of an interval it started doing odd things. Basically every few mins the cadence reading would go to zero (with power quickly dropping to zero), sit at zero for maybe 1 or 2 seconds, and then correct itself. I tried an auto and manual zero with no joy. This went on for maybe 45 mins and then all of a sudden it seemed to right itself. Odd. Anyone seen these kind of shenanigans before? I am guessing it has something to do with the cadence magnet but before I go down that path I wanted to see whether anyone has experienced similar issues.
Apr 19, 2013 at 01:36 PM
Apr 19, 2013 at 01:45 PM
Mark,
it is simple. But if you have an iPhone, Qalvin, and the necessary dongle, you can evaluate battery life. Still a battery is fairly cheap and changing it is really fast.
Apr 19, 2013 at 02:37 PM
how long do the batteries last in those things?
Apr 19, 2013 at 04:44 PM
300-400 hours is supposed to be the range, but it could be longer or shorter depending on a whole host of factors. Luckily, the batteries are cheap, $2-5 depending on what you get and where, and take all of a minute to swap, if that. I try to replace mine quarterly lest it dies on a ride. And I did have one die on a ride once. Just rode to the next town, found a five-and-dime type shop (didn't know they still exist), bought a new battery, put it in, and all was good.
Apr 19, 2013 at 05:20 PM
The magnet placement is usually the culprit, especially outdoors. Sometimes on home trainers, I've found that the signal can get lost amidst the other bluetooth and wifi devices in my apartment.
Apr 22, 2013 at 12:42 PM
Apr 22, 2013 at 01:21 PM
I've been struggling with some drive train issues lately and I'm hoping someone can give me some advice.
Here's the long story:
I've trained on my alloy Fulcrum clinchers for most of the winter and haven't really had any major issues. Recently I wanted to start using my Zipp carbon clinchers again for racing and training. When I put them back on and I found that they are making a crunching noise around the cassette especially when in the lower gears and when I'm applying a lot of pressure like climbing. I adjusted the rear derailleur and it seems to be shifting into the gears properly but the noise still persists. I thought it may be in between gears but that doesn't seem to be the problem. When it's on the stand it doesn't have the crunching noise but has more of a hollow droning noise (not sure I can put it into words, but it's definitely noticeable.)
I took it to R&A yesterday (where I bought my bike) and they said the wheel and hub was fine and recommended a new cassette and chain. I'm not against purchasing those, but the cassette and chain are probably less than a year old so I don't think that's going to make it any better. Plus last night I put another relatively new cassette on it and this morning had the same issue. Since I don't have any issues with the cassette that currently on the Fulcum wheels I'm going to try putting that one on the Zipps and see what happens there. My suspicion is it has something to do with the wheel.
A few questions:
1. Any thoughts on this predicament? I know it's difficult not seeing or hearing the problem.
2. Any recommendations for good mechanics in the area? I'd like to get this figured out by the weekend if posible.
3. How much validity is there to the chain and cassette must mate for life proposition? Meaning am I wrong to be using different cassettes and wheels with the same chain? How often should I change these? If I buy I new chain should I match it with a new cassette?
I'm eager to race on the Zipps, so any advice you can share will be helpful even if it's a reco for a trustworthy mechanic. Thanks.
Apr 22, 2013 at 01:45 PM
@Jeff - You should wait to hear from the more experienced on this, but I'm going to guess you need a new chain. I think the measurement is 24 links (pin to pin) should be no longer than 12 1/8" (that's from memory). A chain checking tool would help. The crunching is the chain not seating properly on the cassette particularly under load. You probably hear it more on the Zipps because the deep profile carbon amplifies the sounds coming from the wheel. I'd also guess you have close to 4k + miles on that chain. It's more likely the cassette on the Fulcrum is worn and should be replaced, which is why it doesn't make as much noise with the stretched chain.
Apr 22, 2013 at 01:53 PM
Mark Purdy. 646 201 9219 or sensei@ifixbyx.com
This issue can be with the cassette, but if you get the noise from multiple cassettes on the Zipp and those same cassettes make zero noise on the Fulcrums the problem in this case is with the wheel.
I think re-lubing the bearings and pawls within the freehub would be best first option. The lube used here is typically a lot finer than standard bike grease and doesn't last as long (I think Mavic actually use mineral oil). The Zipp grease is about $10-$15. The task is well within the reach of a home mechanic. It doesn't require expensive tools, just be patient and follow the intructions on the zipp site, but it you want a good mechanic Purdy is about as good as they get.
Apr 22, 2013 at 01:54 PM
Swap the cassette from the Fulcrum onto the Zipp - an excellent trouble shooting strategy.
The carbon wheels will amplify sound a lot - maybe the crunching noise is always there, but sub audible with the alloy wheels.
A new chain every year would be a minimal recommendation. If you have had this chain all last year, then you are overdue for a change. Chains can certainly make crunching noises. I presume you have cleaned it and re-lubed it generously.
Using multiple cassettes on a given chain is totally kosher. If you change your chain often enough, then your cassettes will last a decade. If you don't change your chain often enough, it stretches (longer distance between the links) and then deforms the shape of the teeth on the cassette. In that circumstance, when you change the chain then you experience skipping because of the deformed teeth (put the old chain back and it will work perfectly - so save your old chain just in case you need it).
Problems inside the cassette body usually do not manifest when you are putting torque on the wheel. The pawls and bearings might need cleaning and relubing, but they do not typically cause crunching noises. They squeal when you are free-wheeling at high speed.
In summary, maybe your chain has stretched out but the cogs have not yet been reshaped and the crunching noise is the chain gradually filing off the metal. This would imply that the teeth on the cassette on your Fulcrum wheels has become reshapped and that when you get a new chain it will work well on the Zipp wheels but not on the Fulcrum wheels. You say the crunching comes from the lower gears on the Zipp wheels. Not sure what you mean, but would these be the cogs that you use less often and therefore would be closer to their original shape?
Finally, you can measure your chain. What is it supposed to be, something like 12 links to the foot? You can look this up. If it is stretched by more than 1/8" over that distance, then it should be changed. JP will verify those numbers.
The carbon wheels will amplify sound a lot - maybe the crunching noise is always there, but sub audible with the alloy wheels.
A new chain every year would be a minimal recommendation. If you have had this chain all last year, then you are overdue for a change. Chains can certainly make crunching noises. I presume you have cleaned it and re-lubed it generously.
Using multiple cassettes on a given chain is totally kosher. If you change your chain often enough, then your cassettes will last a decade. If you don't change your chain often enough, it stretches (longer distance between the links) and then deforms the shape of the teeth on the cassette. In that circumstance, when you change the chain then you experience skipping because of the deformed teeth (put the old chain back and it will work perfectly - so save your old chain just in case you need it).
Problems inside the cassette body usually do not manifest when you are putting torque on the wheel. The pawls and bearings might need cleaning and relubing, but they do not typically cause crunching noises. They squeal when you are free-wheeling at high speed.
In summary, maybe your chain has stretched out but the cogs have not yet been reshaped and the crunching noise is the chain gradually filing off the metal. This would imply that the teeth on the cassette on your Fulcrum wheels has become reshapped and that when you get a new chain it will work well on the Zipp wheels but not on the Fulcrum wheels. You say the crunching comes from the lower gears on the Zipp wheels. Not sure what you mean, but would these be the cogs that you use less often and therefore would be closer to their original shape?
Finally, you can measure your chain. What is it supposed to be, something like 12 links to the foot? You can look this up. If it is stretched by more than 1/8" over that distance, then it should be changed. JP will verify those numbers.
Apr 22, 2013 at 01:58 PM
PS. badly worn teeth have a hook shape, whereas new teeth are symmetric shape like Devils Tower
Apr 22, 2013 at 02:13 PM
I've heard the worn cassette phenomenon called shark-finning.
Apr 22, 2013 at 02:21 PM
Thanks all. I going to try the Fulcrum cassette switch for kicks, but will look to replace my chain in the meantime. I may be back for chain installation advice. I did attend Stokes wrenching workshop last year but probably need a refresher. Last time I installed my chain I snapped it during a sprint in a Cat 5 race giving off the appearance that I was much stronger than I really am.
Apr 22, 2013 at 02:24 PM
3. Chain-Cassette: Married for Life? i don't have a direct answer to your third question, as i haven't yet had to replace a cassette. when i replaced my chain, i had a nearly-new casette, and noticed no issues. sorry to be useless.
1. My thoughts? i'd love to see/hear it...
- increased noise certainly can be sign of drivetrain wear, as the parts no longer fit together as smoothly and must move around more in order to get into place.
- consider measuring your chain for wear using a tool. this will allow you to rule in/out the possibility of noise from worn chain. my chain, on-bike since Oct 25, 2012 (it's about 6 months old) already shows nearly .05% wear, which is a point at which many people replace theirs. my drivetrain is getting very noisy. i suspect chains wear faster in the winter due to the salts and chemicals applied to the roads and sucked up into your drivetrain.
- does it throw off any of the other signs of a worn drivetrain? (chain slipping, sloppy shifts)
- is the noise coming from the outer plates of the chain rubbing against the adjacent cogs? when you're in 16, look at the derailleur/cogs from behind the bicycle and see if the chain is being guided into the 17 instead of cleanly sitting on the 16 without touching the 15 or 17. this is a major source of drivetrain noise in my experience. it is also difficult to get the derailleur perfectly aligned to shift properly but never rub an adjacent cog.
- if you do opt to replace your drivetrain components, i would add that amazon.com sells chains and cassettes for about $40 less than physical stores do
2. Mechanic Recommendation: Gerald at Roy's Sheepshead is a knowledgeable mechanic. the shop is not close to most people. it is also not a sponsor. Minori and Will at Ride have been kind to me and (more importantly) my bicycle. my experience with drivetrain noise is that mechanics are more likely to recommend the nuclear option of part replacement than pursue the wild good chase of noise hunting. (my bicycle soundtrack currently features an odd whirring noise that i cannot divine the source of) if there's no diminished functionality, it's hard to justify an odyssey through the bike's every bolt.
Apr 22, 2013 at 03:23 PM
wow, i arrived late to that party. none of those were posted before i clicked post. sorry if i offered redundant advice.
Apr 22, 2013 at 11:19 PM
get new zipps...or better yet, get some lightweights (with white spokes, it would go well with your izalco).
Apr 23, 2013 at 12:13 PM
regarding chain wear, here's an interesting article that points out flaws with various methods of measuring it (including the old hold-a-ruler-next-to-it and the park tool that i use): http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html
Apr 23, 2013 at 02:31 PM
Jeff I run through a few chains every season. Get one of these bad boys.
Apr 23, 2013 at 02:36 PM
Or use a ruler.
The best way to determine whether a chain is worn is by measuring its length. A new half inch pitch chain will have a pin at exactly every half inch. As the pins and sleeves wear, this spacing increases, concentrating more load on the last tooth of engagement as the chain rolls off the sprocket, thus changing the tooth profile. When chain pitch grows over one half percent, it is time for a new chain. At one percent, sprocket wear progresses rapidly because this length change occurs only between pin and sleeve so that it is concentrated on every second pitch; the pitch of the inner link containing the rollers remaining constant. By holding a ruler along the chain on the bicycle, align an inch mark with a pin and see how far off the mark the pin is at twelve inches. An eighth of an inch (0.125) is one percent, twice the sixteenth limit that is a prudent time for a new chain.
The best way to determine whether a chain is worn is by measuring its length. A new half inch pitch chain will have a pin at exactly every half inch. As the pins and sleeves wear, this spacing increases, concentrating more load on the last tooth of engagement as the chain rolls off the sprocket, thus changing the tooth profile. When chain pitch grows over one half percent, it is time for a new chain. At one percent, sprocket wear progresses rapidly because this length change occurs only between pin and sleeve so that it is concentrated on every second pitch; the pitch of the inner link containing the rollers remaining constant. By holding a ruler along the chain on the bicycle, align an inch mark with a pin and see how far off the mark the pin is at twelve inches. An eighth of an inch (0.125) is one percent, twice the sixteenth limit that is a prudent time for a new chain.
Apr 23, 2013 at 03:39 PM
Thanks. I'm sure it's the old chain on this newish cassette as I changed the older cassette (previously on the Fulcrum wheels) to the Zipps and didn't have the same problem when I rode this morning.
I'm getting a new chain tomorrow. Any advice on installing? Last time didn't go so well for me.
Apr 23, 2013 at 04:13 PM
Measure it correctly the first time and check the installation instructions for the particular chain.
And use a good chain tool.
And yeah rulers are fine, but a nice chain checker tool from Park or anyone else is generally under $10.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes
Zipps back in action = you win this week. Promise.
And use a good chain tool.
And yeah rulers are fine, but a nice chain checker tool from Park or anyone else is generally under $10.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes
Zipps back in action = you win this week. Promise.
Apr 23, 2013 at 09:16 PM
Ordered the Garmin Edge 500 with HR and speed/cadence. Should be shipped in a week-ish.
Wooo.
Wooo.
Apr 23, 2013 at 09:34 PM
You would already have it if you went to Ride BK.David Yang said:Ordered the Garmin Edge 500 with HR and speed/cadence. Should be shipped in a week-ish.
Wooo.
Apr 23, 2013 at 09:47 PM
I actually agonized over buying local, but the $75 bone difference was too much and that's after a 10% cat5 discount.vlad said:You would already have it if you went to Ride BK.David Yang said:Ordered the Garmin Edge 500 with HR and speed/cadence. Should be shipped in a week-ish.
Wooo.
Apr 23, 2013 at 10:56 PM
Dont mean to put down bike shops but where'd you get yours? Ive been considering getting one. College students need their pennies worth...I actually agonized over buying local, but the $75 bone difference was too much and that's after a 10% cat5 discount.vlad said:You would already have it if you went to Ride BK.David Yang said:Ordered the Garmin Edge 500 with HR and speed/cadence. Should be shipped in a week-ish.
Wooo.