Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

8105 comments · 108281 views
Yeah. PBK and the like, if you wait for a sale, AND if you have a discount are hard to beat. I got my 500 for under $200 for the complete bundle. Sorry LBS!
i think the sponsorship PDF recommends speaking to al and pete about expensive items and seeing if they'll beat whatever price you're trying to get.

on one hand, you risk looking a bit rude.  on the other hand, they can't really expect you to pay $100 more if you can't afford it.  especially if you make it explicit that that's what you're doing and give them a chance to get your dollars.  as opposed to silently walking in, trying on their pearl izumi stuff, and buying it on amazon.
Nifty looking outfit here

http://www.racewaredirect.co.uk/#/shop-main/4559567824/Garmin-Mounts

disregard

To Brendan's point: if you plan on buying from the interweb then you should do your research that way too. Don't go into an LBS and waste their time and then buy online.

Personally I buy big ticket items with a low risk of needing support from wherever is cheaper globally (eg a dura ace front derailleur from Germany); big ticket items that may need support (wheels, frames) from official US channels online, because 8.875% sales tax can be substantial ; everything else from an LBS.

I'd buy more from an LBS if it I was possible to try the stuff out first (eg being able to take a pair of Zipp 404 and a pair of zipp 303 for a ride on a windy day might be very useful before buying), but LBS don't do that, in which case their is little to be gained from buying that particular product locally. Since I have to research online to help me make a decision I may as well buy online too.


Chains:

I am considering getting a Wipperman Connex 10s1 to replace my SRAM PC-1091R once it's worn.  Anyone have experience with Wipperman chains?  My feeling is that the stainless steel inner links will endure longer than the "nickel silver" inner links of the SRAM chains.  But, as with any aftermarket manufacturer, I am concerned about compatibility and shift quality.
Brendan, i swear by KMC X10SL chains. Veeeery good stuff. Never tried the Wipperman, but have heard good things.

I don't know about the endurance aspect, but I've been riding a wipperman for a while now and my only real "complaint" is that I don't love their master-link. It works fine, and I haven't had a problem with it, but you do have to get it set up in the right direction and it gives the impression of it ready to pop off in a way the SRAM links never have felt. That said, I have never had an actual problem with the chain or the link. IT HAS NEVER POPPED OFF or come lose.
I second KMC.  I've got an X10 SL on my race bike, and just got in the mail a new X10.93 for my other bike.  Nice chains, and the missinglink thing makes putting them on and getting them off relatively easy.
@Brendan: Why are you ditching SRAM chains?
for the same reasons I do lots of my own repairs  thrift, and curiosity.  i am 100% happy with my sram chain experience; not switching for increased functionality.

SRAM chains are made with a nickel alloy.  the wipperman 10s1 chain is made with stainless steel (steel-chrome alloy) inner plates and nickel allow outer plates.  inner plates are where most of the wear occurs.  modern bushingless chains feature an inner plate offering an inward extrusion (intrusion?), providing the equivalent of a bushing without adding an additional, separate, bushing pressed in.  sort of like the new one-piece hollowgram cranks, taking several separate pieces and putting them all together into one for increased stiffness and simplicity.  

the interface of this bushing/extrusion/tube and the pin is, apparently, where wear occurs that lengthens the chain, making it sit higher on the cog teeth, and wearing out cogs and chainrings. (http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.htmlhttp://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html)

two variables I want to asses with the wipperman chain:
  1. durability.  stainless steel is famously durable.  i want to see if it makes a difference in this particular application.
  2. shift quality.  the chamfered outer link is slightly different on the wipperman chain than on the sram chain.  but it appears that the most important surfaces to chamfer, the inside of the outer plates, and the rounded outside edges of the outer plates, are similarly chamfered.  i want to know if the varied shapes result in any noticeable difference in shifting.  i suspect it won't.
it's only a ~$25 experiment (PC-1091R is $53 on amazon, 10s1 is $78).
I am a fan of the KMC chains as well for SRAM drive-trains. cost effective and just as durable as SRAM chains. Why spend money you don't need to?


+1 for KMC
I run all my 10 speed stuff with them.
As my 9-speed SRAM wear out, I am moving over to KMC as well.
If the new chain doesn't already come with one, are you reusing the master link you already have or buying a new one?

All this talk of new chain has given me new chain envy.
sometimes after reading the tech/gear thread, just sometimes, i come to the conclusion that we need to get out and socialize more.

Yeah, let's talk about this shit in person!

i can't be bothered to socialize. too busy "lubricating my chain" and "adjusting my derailleur"
craig: i often "reuse" my "master link"
Which KMC chain? PBK has dozens. Some which are like $70-90. I've heard some compared to Ultegra and would like to save cashola. The one Ros suggested was pretty pricey.
The Shimano's have arrived...and they are wonderful
Very nice shoes!  Too nice for bike riding, I think. . . 

@Jeff, this one  on ebay is 46.50 and free shipping.  The X10.93 I got for my other bike was $25 and had solid links, so it's heavier.

Yacks, we may never agree on the beauty of carbon fiber, but I have to say that a few years back I had a pair of Shimano shoes that fit me so wonderfully, that I periodically wonder why I don't just pony up some money and get me some more, again.

Ryan, any chance we can get a Shimano sponsorship?

Hahahahaaaaaahahaaaa,cough, cough. gag.

hmm. so I threw on my chinese carbon hoops. the front spins smoothly as the first use, but this time the rear seems to spin smoothly but then quickly slow down. Nothing is rubbing as far as I can see. 

What else could cause a slow spin? Is the hub the only other potential cause? 
The hub. Check with john neugent
the bearings on Neuvation hubs tend to die fast

i've replaced several
is this normal for speedplay zero cleats?  spring completely snapped after ~2250 miles
2k miles is a long way...
Huh!? I'm not exactly a kilometer beast, but my pedals are expected to last way more than one season (try 10 and then I put them in a box and wait until I'm building a bike for the kids). If not, I switch manufacturers.


@ Stokes 

I completely agree. I put my Shimano pedals on and forget about them. My first set of dura-ace pedals lasted me 7 years without maintenance. I'm amazed at what speed play fans are will to put up with. 
Pedals or cleats?