Aug 28, 2013 at 05:37 PM
I second Jeff's preference for the Yokos. He turned me on to them last year and I really like them.
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Aug 28, 2013 at 06:10 PM
mugwump said:Gore stuff, particularly the sealed stuff is good because the cable, both in the housing and outside of it, is covered by a thin sheath for the length of the cables. when you cut it at the pinch bolt, you put a grub seal over the opening. Pity they discontinued it.
Aican makes identical cable and housings and can be found on ebay. My Orbea road bike uses the Gore sealed cables because they route outside, but sit against the downtube, so Aican will be the new cables that go on next year.
Aug 28, 2013 at 08:31 PM
Wait, it looks like Gore is for sale what is this discontinued business?
http://www.treefortbikes.com/cat/0/115/Cable-and-Housing-Kit.html#navbar=pro___333222372675___739
Aug 28, 2013 at 08:35 PM
It's discontinued. But if you can find it, I think it's worth it. What you can find online is companies getting rid of existing stock.
Aug 28, 2013 at 08:54 PM
So the link I provided is the good stuff, just "new old stock" and I should scoop it up?
Aug 28, 2013 at 08:56 PM
My Avid's arrived. How much of a PITA will it be to swap them on? Do I need to recable the brakes completely or is it likely I'll be able to get away with clipping the existing ends and rethreading them?
(FWIW the instructions only differentiate between the two positions as "maximum mud clearance" and "lower profile" no mention of brake responsiveness.
(FWIW the instructions only differentiate between the two positions as "maximum mud clearance" and "lower profile" no mention of brake responsiveness.
Aug 28, 2013 at 09:23 PM
Another cross related gear question. Who makes nice grippy, sticky handlebar tape?
Aug 28, 2013 at 09:38 PM
Aug 28, 2013 at 10:46 PM
it's little nuggets like Bruce's here that make me think we should supplement the forum with a wiki. the better to record, and later locate, odd bits of static information.Bruce van-Schalkwyk said:mugwump said:Gore stuff, particularly the sealed stuff is good because the cable, both in the housing and outside of it, is covered by a thin sheath for the length of the cables. when you cut it at the pinch bolt, you put a grub seal over the opening. Pity they discontinued it.Aican makes identical cable and housings and can be found on ebay. My Orbea road bike uses the Gore sealed cables because they route outside, but sit against the downtube, so Aican will be the new cables that go on next year.
Aug 28, 2013 at 11:25 PM
Aug 29, 2013 at 12:58 AM
ArundelMarc Bertucco said:
Another cross related gear question. Who makes nice grippy, sticky handlebar tape?
Aug 29, 2013 at 01:05 AM
Aug 29, 2013 at 01:43 AM
Any disc wheel owners out there? I'd love to know the dimensions for the pump head opening, in length and width.
thanks.
Aug 29, 2013 at 01:55 AM
Fashioning your own crack pipe?mugwump said:Any disc wheel owners out there? I'd love to know the dimensions for the pump head opening, in length and width.thanks.
Aug 29, 2013 at 03:44 AM
Aug 29, 2013 at 12:00 PM
Aug 29, 2013 at 07:36 PM
I checked with Vanilla; they don't have any Wiki plugin currently on in the pipeline.Brendan Rigby said:it's little nuggets like Bruce's here that make me think we should supplement the forum with a wiki. the better to record, and later locate, odd bits of static information.Bruce van-Schalkwyk said:mugwump said:Gore stuff, particularly the sealed stuff is good because the cable, both in the housing and outside of it, is covered by a thin sheath for the length of the cables. when you cut it at the pinch bolt, you put a grub seal over the opening. Pity they discontinued it.Aican makes identical cable and housings and can be found on ebay. My Orbea road bike uses the Gore sealed cables because they route outside, but sit against the downtube, so Aican will be the new cables that go on next year.
Aug 29, 2013 at 09:27 PM
Has anyone on the forum used one of these, branded or otherwise?
Aug 30, 2013 at 12:10 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_d43NBqLmQ
Aug 30, 2013 at 01:12 AM
Jules,Jules said:Has anyone on the forum used one of these, branded or otherwise?
I tested it out at Interbike when it debuted. Felt pretty "road like" between the flywheel and the lateral sway. The problem as I see it for NYC people is the size. It's pretty big and heavy. Kreitler rollers with a headwind unit or a computrainer are lighter and fold up smaller.
Aug 30, 2013 at 03:12 AM
Work awesome. Mind blowingly loud. When you get to a decent tempo, say 300w, it sounds like an army of vacuums from hell.Jules said:Has anyone on the forum used one of these, branded or otherwise?
Aug 30, 2013 at 03:14 AM
Perfect for a home with small children then, is what you're sayin'...mattie davitt said:Work awesome. Mind blowingly loud. When you get to a decent tempo, say 300w, it sounds like an army of vacuums from hell.Jules said:Has anyone on the forum used one of these, branded or otherwise?
Aug 30, 2013 at 06:46 PM
I imagine you guys have discussed it before, but is there any consensus on compact cranksets? They didn't exist last time I was looking at new bikes. I thought they we just for newbies but I keep seeing them on high end racing bikes. What's the deal?
Aug 30, 2013 at 07:26 PM
@Dale I suspect that unless you've had knee issues before or trouble at the end of long, hilly races you'll be fine with what you are used to.
That said, you can some Compacts that fit onto 130 BCD arms, so that would be a cheap way to hedge and set yourself up to try a set.
Aug 30, 2013 at 07:32 PM
The new Shimano cranks (ultegra and dura ace) do away with the distinction and will allow you to run full sized 53/39 or 50/34 compact. The old 130 bcd wouldn't allow anything smaller than a 38.
Aug 30, 2013 at 08:14 PM
Thanks Guys,
Joaquin or anyone else, do you know if the chainrings are interchangeable on the FSA BB30 cranks that come on the new Cannondales?
Aug 30, 2013 at 08:40 PM
JP likes the weight savings with compact cranks.
Less metal on the chain rings and on the cassette.
And, of course, you can't get up the Angliru without them.
It's still theoretical for me as I have old Campy stuff that seems to last forever.
Less metal on the chain rings and on the cassette.
And, of course, you can't get up the Angliru without them.
It's still theoretical for me as I have old Campy stuff that seems to last forever.
Aug 30, 2013 at 09:39 PM
Dale I think it really depends what kind of races you want to do. I know you mentioned that you were once a pretty good climber. If your goal is to get back to that, I'd recommend the compact.
There will be pros and cons either way, so it's really about the kinds of races you'll prioritize. For me, I aim for the hilly races and the stage races. So I like the compact because while other guys are scrambling to borrow a 27 or figure out if they can fit a 28, I'm good with my 11-26 even on the steepest pitches.
I run into the cons occasionally on a downhill stretch where I have to position myself carefully because I can't go fast enough if I end up in the wind (that's happened in the park a few times) but that's rare. And there are some races with downhill sprints (like Killington), where I'd be screwed in my setup, but I usually opt out of those since I don't like to crash at 55 mph in amateur races.
So to sum it up, if you think you'll be a crit, flat race speed guy, the regular crankset is probably more convenient. If you think you'll wanna go uphill a lot, the compact may be more convenient.
Aug 30, 2013 at 09:41 PM
Dale, FSA is one of hte biggest producers of chainrings around. So if you're looking for a different ratio, provided it works with the bcd, you should be fine.Dale Suttle said:Thanks Guys,Joaquin or anyone else, do you know if the chainrings are interchangeable on the FSA BB30 cranks that come on the new Cannondales?
We have discussed compacts plenty of times. The limiter for the 110 bcd compacts is that the biggest big ring you can find for them is 52. Then again, running a 52/39 or 52/38 is pretty much what is standard on 130bcd.
Joaquin, you are right about the new Shimano arms. I suspect the new four-arm FSA's do the same (though their rings and Shimano's aren't interchangeable). The drag is that you're currently limited to those two ratios. I'd love to have a 52/36 or 50/36 for riding the alps, if I ever go back. Vanity, perhaps.
And the killer about the new four-arm setup is that Zipp actually had an amazing crank that could work for compacts, standards, TTs, and also with standard external-bearing BBs and BB30s. It was an amazing setup but didn't catch on because it wasn't Shimano. Kind of like how Bontrager had V-brakes before Shimano.
Aug 30, 2013 at 09:43 PM
The FSA cranks will either have a 110 bcd if compact or a 130 bcd if standard. As Joaquin notes you can't do anything smaller than a 38 with a 130. You can get a 52 for a 110. (Probably a 53 if you look hard and go with a praxis or other third party mfg). With a 110 you can get a "mid-compact" of 52/36. If I did it all over again I'd get a compact crank and change the chain rings.