Traditionally at Northampton there are usually one or two ride-ups that, in the early laps turn into run-ups because of general mayhem. As Wellens notes above, if you are going to run, best anticipate that and get your run on early, before being forced to dismount awkwardly, mid-climb.

Last year, the approach to the ride/run-up was visible from quite a distance and because I was riding in the 20s at that time, I saw craziness about to happen. So with a turn and 50 meters to go, I was already planning for an early dismount and run.

^ very sorry I won't be joining you guys there, but I'm happy I'll be fitter again later in the season.

30oct2014

Sweet Baby JPo---- NOPENOPENOPE!

Does anyone have advice for removing glue from a carbon rim, or if it is even necessary before re gluing using mastik one and Belgian tape. I flatted for the first time today, and thanks Nelson for helping me in the pit. Some people say remove all glue, some say that it will soften when the new glue is applied, and I only need to remove the big chunks.....want to start re gluing Tuesday for next week, so not a lot of time to figure it out. I also learned a valuable lesson today........start the season with a fresh can of mastik, as it can not be shipped one or two day (by air) due to federal shipping restrictions. Don't get caught without.

Answered my own question and would like to pass it along. Blow dryer.....on high......high heat. I got Belgian that was cemented to the rim off in about 15 minutes, and almost all the way around the rim. A quick go-round with acetone and a rag, and a quick scuff- up with scotch-brite, and I'm off to the races.....literally. Whew!

My answer would have been;
Only remove the big chunks. The solvent from the new glue application will soften and mix new and old glue. In effect, you do not need to apply as much new glue to a previously used rim (or tire).

But I'll keep in mind the hair dryer trick to remove the chunks.

Also, I have had good luck with Stans NoTubes sealent. I had a small leak end of last season, which I sealed with Stans at the beginning of this season and . . . so far so good.

Will of course, keep Stan's in mind. But being that I want it good to go next Sunday, and don't want to find out Thursday that it didn't hold, I'm changing out the tire as to not take any chances. Thanx!

Weight on the front wheel is good for cornering on grass and mud. You are essentially giving yourself more traction on the front wheel, as frictional force (that prevents sliding) is proportional to the normal force (weight on the wheel) (F_f = μF_n).
If your rear wheel slides as yo go around a corner: no big deal.
If your front wheel slides when you go around a corner: you crash (exactly what happened to me yesterday).

If you are riding down a steep drop-off, the situation is different. There, the downward pitch of the bike naturally puts more weight on the front wheel. Probably too much (extreme case - you endo). So you want to compensate by pushing your weight back over the rear wheel. This thinking does not apply to cornering on flat ground.

PatrickG said:

I have a cyclocross specific bike fit/geometry question.

I was fortunate enough to get a new Van Dessel Full Tilt Boogie and my first instinct was to replicate the position from my 2009 Giant TCX (using the stack and reach measurements from the BB as reference). My seat tip is 8cm behind the BB (3cm more than on my road bike). To replicate this position on the FTB I wound up with a super short stem and 25 degree set back seat post. 

Am I making a mistake trying to replicate my position on the TCX? While getting more weight over the rear wheel might be good for mud and sand, am I negating the FTB’s handling stability in cornering by shifting the weight back from the front wheel? It occurs to me that people praise the frame geometry and I may be inadvertently neutralizing it. I also remember Eric talking earlier this CX season about weight over the front wheel improving handling. 

We discussed a bit of this in the Bike Fit thread recently.

Anyone heading to the Newtown Cyclocross this weekend?  

Message of note to everyone not intending to race cat 4/5 NEXT season in the MAC series:

For Nittany, the previous year's points are used for staging in all categories except the 4/5s. So, if you'd like to improve your starting position, consider heading out to the remaining MAC series races and collect some points. Fields start to thin about now for mid-Atlantic regional racing, and that means a better shot at collecting points.

Personally, I'm going after Master's 35+ points, with a primary goal of starting next year's Nittany next to Ragot so I can give him wet-willies at staging.

mugwump said:

PatrickG said:

I have a cyclocross specific bike fit/geometry question.

I was fortunate enough to get a new Van Dessel Full Tilt Boogie and my first instinct was to replicate the position from my 2009 Giant TCX (using the stack and reach measurements from the BB as reference). My seat tip is 8cm behind the BB (3cm more than on my road bike). To replicate this position on the FTB I wound up with a super short stem and 25 degree set back seat post. 

Am I making a mistake trying to replicate my position on the TCX? While getting more weight over the rear wheel might be good for mud and sand, am I negating the FTB’s handling stability in cornering by shifting the weight back from the front wheel? It occurs to me that people praise the frame geometry and I may be inadvertently neutralizing it. I also remember Eric talking earlier this CX season about weight over the front wheel improving handling. 

We discussed a bit of this in the Bike Fit thread recently.

In terms of ease of switchover and minimizing variables, using your TCX position on the FTB makes sense.  You can find out how the bikes handle differently while having your muscles used to the fit.  However, it might not necessarily work great with the geometry of the bike.

I guess a question is why you chose to go with this rearward position, and the answer to that could inform your choice of position on the FTB.  

We have a bike fit thread? Cool

Ren Fairs tend to leave large swaths of countryside awash in one legged turkeys.

Fwiw, I will still do kutztown. Mac points baby.

Im thinking about emailing the promoter with some feedback.

For planning purposes--Augusta is actually closer to an hour and a half from Brooklyn with no traffic, but it's a "fast" 90 minutes. (I have the speeding ticket to prove it, so beware.).  It is a fun longstanding small homegrown type race with a nice vibe.

mperlberg said:

If you aren't into the whole mac thing - do Augusta. It's a great venue & nice vibe. 

Yeah, if you aren't chasing MAC points, there is absolutely no reason to go to Kutztown. Mike's on point with his criticisms and I popped on over to the FB page to see the latest. Unbelievable the amount of energy/time going into creating BMX style(?) whoopty-dos?

While I won't disagree entirely with Gwynna's thoughts about Cheshire, I will point out that last year, the hole-shot set up was TERRIBLE. Worse than Marty's Day 1 for example.

TIGHTER 180 turn SOONER after start, straight into a couple of fussy turns that lead into the backwoods single track. I had a delightful time waiting my turn to get into the woods last year.

Once things settle in a bit, the course is fun in a MTB-lite kind of way, but if they keep last year's design, and you don't get first or second row call up, then you can forget about racing for a top placing.