I just fitted a new three bike roof rack. It's the Thule Aeroblade. I have lock cores installed so it is locked to the roof.

I echo Ian's comments about why roof over hitch. They don't bang together and I can access the rear door (wagon) without issue. I know Yacks has a wagon too, so that is a personal preference.

Definitely fork mounts if you go roof rack.

Loving this discussion.  Trunk mount has proven to be a PITA so was considering a hitch or roof rack.

I was partial to Yakima because my first car was a Beetle and the rain gutter moved in two axis and I had to go with Thule because it was an unbeatable price.  The rectangular bars and non-pivoting gutter feet were hard to work with; I would have been better off with Yakima.  With most cars these days, the roof and mounting points are pretty much parallel, so there's little worry of what I had to deal with.

My Thule setup; works well for three. The faring makes a huge difference for noise reduction

@Gwynna Maybe check the fork mount itself is locked down tight on the rail. Ian's new rig loosened there after a bit of use.

Gwynna - if in doubt - put someone else's bike on the roof and drive around to try it out. 

One vote for roof racks.  I just think they look cooler.

its the pro look

Yeah, I was a bit puzzled when Ian's bike was in the trunk.

Spamming here, this Sunday the 6th we'll have the BMC demo truck in action from 9-4 if you wanna ride something cool that isn't yours. Also, we'll be streaming Flanders. It'll be a party!

Another DEMO DAY alert in few weeks. Parlee demo on Sat, April 19, 2014 from 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM at Redbeard Bikes in DUMBO: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/parlee-demo-day-redbeard-bikes-tickets-9644082711 Them some nice bikes.

mperlberg said:

Hey Folks.

I picked up a set of the Ritchey WCS Zeta II road wheels. 

Anyway, there is only so much you can tell from one day of riding to FBF, racing, and heading back but if these wheels hold up they're a ridiculous steal. 1444 grams and come with a nice set of skewers. 

Could you put some calipers on them and measure the rim width from exterior wall to exterior wall?  Ritchey only lists the inside width?

Yup next time I'm at Eric's or the bike shop I will do that. I don't own calipers .

Now that the wheels I just built have been destroyed...I might be up for some Zetas

Brendan,
I doubt your wheels have been totally destroyed. Hub must still be ok. Some of the spokes still ok? Just buy a new rim and start again. Second build will be much easier and much better. Regard this episode as karmic forces pressing you to practice your new-found art form.
 

Brendan...get the Zetas...they are an incredible value with the discount.  

Look at Konrad's. Measure how much is below the min insertion line. Then add that to how much you'll have exposed. Mark that length on the post.

btw, I once cut down a seatpost.  It was a fairly light one, American classic's old design.  I cut off the equivalent of the minimum insertion or thereabouts.  I think it saved me 10-15g.  Cutting down a 330 or 400 would have been different.

I cut one too. A Thompson. I never weighed the difference. I figured avoiding a muffin once in a while would be better weight savings.

Mike, I've read that you need to have 100mm as a minimum insertion length. Can't remember where I read that, but it's also stamped on most posts. I've cut a couple and opted to add a little extra to be safe, so I went with 120mm

My question wasn't about cutting. It was about how much post needs to be in the seat tube as a general rule of thumb.

The highest estimate I've found is 100mm, so the 240mm post should be plenty long unless I'm missing something.

mperlberg said:

My question wasn't about cutting. It was about how much post needs to be in the seat tube as a general rule of thumb. The highest estimate I've found is 100mm, so the 240mm post should be plenty long unless I'm missing something.

Nothing.  250 would be plenty long.  200 would work, too, if you could find one.  180 would probably be a bit too close for your comfort.