@Jeff - I love that nickname. I hope it sticks.

On that note, I have a power tap thus i race on my "training wheels' and conversely train on my "race wheels". What is a good set of racing/training tires? I have gatorskins on now.... which feel like overkill and add a significant amount of rotational weight. Used gp4000s last year for training and racing but I felt like I tore through them super quick. 

So you need something with good grip and feel for racing, but also a decent amount of durability for spring (haha) and summer training.

Andrew Da Silva said:

On that note, I have a power tap thus i race on my "training wheels' and conversely train on my "race wheels". What is a good set of racing/training tires? I have gatorskins on now.... which feel like overkill and add a significant amount of rotational weight. Used gp4000s last year for training and racing but I felt like I tore through them super quick. 

Andy DS,

I actually quite like the Conti GP4000 S 25mm clinchers for racing and training. They're pretty tough and I definitely don't think they wear out more quickly than other race tires. They also seem to have excellent cornering grip.

I've used the Conti GP4000S in 23's for a few seasons and I like em. They last the year for me - March-October. Gatorskins go on for the winter.

This year I got 25's. They barely fit within my cut-out seat tube (about a mm to spare at 95psi) - I was worried but I think they'll be fine.

Plus you usually find a deal on them less than 40 bucks.

Most of last season I raced and trained on 25mm Continental 4Seasons.  I do not change tires for race day because I chalk my race losses up to factors other than minor equipment disadvantages.  Usually it's fitness or making poor tactical decisions (braking in the final straight at Grant's Tomb).  Had some freak sidewall slash flats on the way to Floyd, but since pedaling down Flatbush and Floyd is the cycling equivalent of the amphibious landings on the beaches of Normandy, I don't think it speaks to the durability of the tire.

I find the Conti's wear longer than Vittoria's but the Vittoria's ride better...choose what is more important to you....you can ride Conti's on the trainer or rollers without rounding off the profile...the Vittoria's would look like a paddle wheel in a week.

I just ordered a fly6 through their kick starter fund raising last month. Ugh!

Hey SRAM cranks ! Say HELLO TO MY LITTLE FRIEND !!!!!

Ride Brooklyn was awesome...they gave me the discount and installed my BB while I waited which was really nice as driving back into Brooklyn would have been a downer.  I went next door to get a cup of coffee and when I got back she was done.  Very cool shop filled with very cool people.  You are lucky Brooklyn...on the island the bike shops sell lawnmowers...shit you not.

Thinking of moving over to the Veloflex open tubular clinchers...I just bought a Vittoria Open Corsa to replace a perfectly good one with a big cut in it only to find the new one already has a big cut...It was a terrible day to ride these tires today...but still...Might as well give Veloflex a try....I don't suppose we have any team deal with them?  The distributor appears to be on the island.  thanks

@yacks, Veloflex tires IME are pretty delicate. Its been a lot of years but I also remember them being kinda squirrelly in the wet as well.

twoyacks said:

...on the island the bike shops sell lawnmowers...shit you not.

Such a strange and fascinating place you live.

JP give me some not so strange yet fasinating tire advice.  Tubeless worth the setup headache's and teething problems or just stick to tubes?  Me loves the Vittoria's but it is death by a 1,000 paper cuts ! 

Stick in tubes.  A high TPI casing rolls better than tubeless.  

All sounds sensible...I'm not getting flats, just cuts.  I shouldn't be riding open tubulars on these shitty roads so shame on me.  I suppose I will swap out my Vittorias or wait until the weather gets warm and dry.

Thanks Mike...my wandering eye has me looking at the New Conti Grand Prix 400 s II...with extra Chili Powder !  

on the continuing subject of power meters, today I had my first ride on my new powertap wheelset.  ride brooklyn built the set for me.  G3 hub and ptap front hub on DT Swiss RR440 rims.    lots of spokes, my "bombproof" training set.

the neat thing about the G3 is it seems to be working very seamlessly with my iphone via bluetooth.  so, by investing in this Ptap wheelset, i got a power meter and training wheels (wheee!) and did not have to buy a garmin or other display.  stages crank + DT Swiss training wheelset + garmin, probably around $2600.   Ptap wheelset (with kissena cat 4 modest discount from Ride Brooklyn) around $1300.


so far, Strava and Wahoo recognize the powermeter with no troubles.  will be testing the PowerTap mobile app tomorrow.  in the coming weeks, the full-on bluetooth gangbang with heartstrap, speed/cadence,  and two way headset so i can call for back  up going up the hill in prospect park.

the only disappointing thing is that live actual power results from the park seem to be irritatingly lower than the indoor power levels from the winter at Endurancewerx.  sandbagged, sigh.

Powertap has autozero. The only 'calibration' you can do is 'Manual Zero', and it really isn't necessary. The literature says that there is a temperature dependence in its performance, but I usually found that the autozero takes care of things pretty well. Because this is the only adjustment, I believe that the temperature dependence simply involves a zero-offset. Customer support at powertap is pretty good in case you have any questions - either by telephone or by email.

I wouldn't worry about the comparison with Endurancewerx. You just have to figure out your threshhold for the device you have and then plan your workouts accordingly.

Just ran into a nice little feature of this new garmin 510 i have. It displays when your power meter battery is low.

Anyone have strong opinions on roof racks??

Want to put a 3 bike roof rack on the honda fit.

We do not have factory racks.

Im open to mixing and matching, for example thule base bars and rocky mount trays.

have you considered throwing a 1-1/4 inch hitch on that Fit and getting a hitch based rack?  I have been using hitch racks for a decade now...much easer to get bikes on and off...better mpg...wind doesn't move the car around.  The rack goes on and off in seconds.  You can lock it to the hitch or just take it off and bring it inside.  This way you don't have to worry about someone stealing it.  I have a three bike Thelma.

I'm partial to roof racks. I don't think Thule / Yakima is that big a difference. I do think the Thule (square) bars are better since the mounts won't/can't rotate if the screws are loose. It just so happens that I have some stuff to sell too. I've got the bars, feet (for a car with rails), and some bike racks and ski racks. I'm going to figure out what I'm selling and what I'll be able to convert to fit my new factory rack this weekend. If you are interested message me offline and I'll give you more details. I was going to post to the forum this weekend once I figure it out.

I prefer fork mount racks over upright but I have both and each has their place. For bikes that don't have QR the upright is much easier. (kids bikes, beach cruiser, track bikes)