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Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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Rudy Project sunglasses....any advice would be appreciated.  I used to rock the Kerosene's back in the day...but now there are so many choices that I don't know what to choose.  Thanking you
yack
The Stratofly's look the bit....came across the "training mask"...i think there may be copyright issues though...

http://www.trainingmask.com/products/TRAINING-MASK-2.0.html
Check out  the Firebolt which was recommended by the Rudy rep
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I think you have to be conscious of sizing too. I have the Genetyk and Magster and they fit my big face. I used to have the Kerosene (so heavy..) too. I like the one piece large lens on the Genetyk.
twoyacks said:
Rudy Project sunglasses....any advice would be appreciated.  I used to rock the Kerosene's back in the day...but now there are so many choices that I don't know what to choose.  Thanking you
yack
Yacks, unless things have changed this year (and they may have), you're a Cat 3 now. You git whut you git and that's that.
Wait what?  Do I get sunglasses with that helmet?  
Yep. Welcome to the big leagues buddy.
When does this magic descend ?
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xLw73qBUMYw
Top 5 best 25mm clincher tires for Floyd plz.
Top 5 best 25mm clincher tires for Floyd plz.
John,
I've never made special tire choices for Floyd.  And it's been years since I flatted there--though I hardly race it every week.

That written, I felt very comfortable riding Michelin Pro3 Race 25mm tires there.
Vittoria Rubino Pro 25mm. Best value for the money.
25mm Continental 4 Seasons have been very, very good to me there.
Just be aware that Michelin 25mm are actually huge and much closer to a 27mm, tire clearance might be an issue with some frames (it was for me).
JP, I love the Michelins for a better surface but they're too light for Hulk (190 grams). I've flatted too often on them (albeit 23mm).

So are we saying that except for size issue, these other two are pretty much functionally interchangeable? 
The Rubino's are +10 grams. Maybe the Conti's roll a smidge quicker? I think 230 grams is the right zone.

John. You could also try the schwalbe Ultremo DD. Basically a std Ultremo with an additional layer of puncture proofing. 245g for 25mm and they still feel like a race tire,
John,  I just started on a pair of rubino's for my training set, and while they do have better feel than conti's with the softness (ahhhh) i think the conti's feel quicker.  I never liked the hard conti feel, especially in the rain, but the rubinos feel sluggish for a racing tire.
Thanks Yahoo for tracking every keystroke I make and customizing all your spam to feed my perceived interests...This was on my Yahoo Sports lead story...hmm I just clicked on link about this yesterday...

http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nfl-shutdown-corner/nfl-linebacker-using-odd-oxygen-deprivation-mask-to-get-in-shape-for-season-162043023.html
Does anyone have any experience with Zero G brakes?  I'm using the new Shimano Ultegra 6800 brakes on one of my bikes, and I love them.  It looks like the Zero G has a similar design, so I'm thinking of mounting a set on my SRAM bike.  Would they provide the desired upgrade in feel and modulation?  Is there a specific model I should target?
Joaquin said:
Does anyone have any experience with Zero G brakes?  I'm using the new Shimano Ultegra 6800 brakes on one of my bikes, and I love them.  It looks like the Zero G has a similar design, so I'm thinking of mounting a set on my SRAM bike.  Would they provide the desired upgrade in feel and modulation?  Is there a specific model I should target?
I wouldn't use them.  The marginal weight savings seems to be offset by dramatically worse stopping performance. I don't think they look similar. The expensive brake that looks similar in my opinion are the EeCycleworks brakes

http://eecycleworks.com/eebrake-new.html

These, I've used.  Great modulation.  The only drawbacks are the clunkly quick release and the pain of adjusting the brakes from narrow rims to wide rims.  

I reviewed them. Probably need to put up the review again.
Here: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/learn/eecycleworks-eebrakes

I had a bike with DA9000 brakes for a spell.  The brakes felt like they were a copy of the Ee.


A sealant question:

During Sunday's Bethel race my real tubular wheel developed a flat with one lap to go. I had put in Stans notubes and it sealed up in a few seconds. (The guy behind me said that sealant sprayed up from my real wheel into his face) It held some air but I didn't know how much so I took the finish cautiously. Afterwards I pumped it up from the 60 psi that it remained to 100 psi. My next race wasn't for an hour and it seemed to hold up well. 

Just before my second race I checked it and pumped it up to 105. This was a mistake. Shortly afterwards as I was rolling to the start line the hole started leaking again. I quickly swapped it out for my spare wheel.

So my main question is:
How do I insure the tire does not start leaking again (especially during a race)?

Also:
Is the above typical of using sealant? 
Should I be careful not to over inflate the tire?
Should I add a little more sealant now that some has leaked out?


@mugwump, thanks.  The Ee look nice.  Have you had any experience on the new Red Aerolink brakes?  Do they hold a candle to the new Shimano stuff?
PatrickG said:
A sealant question:

During Sunday's Bethel race my real tubular wheel developed a flat with one lap to go. I had put in Stans notubes and it sealed up in a few seconds. (The guy behind me said that sealant sprayed up from my real wheel into his face) It held some air but I didn't know how much so I took the finish cautiously. Afterwards I pumped it up from the 60 psi that it remained to 100 psi. My next race wasn't for an hour and it seemed to hold up well. 

Just before my second race I checked it and pumped it up to 105. This was a mistake. Shortly afterwards as I was rolling to the start line the hole started leaking again. I quickly swapped it out for my spare wheel.

So my main question is:
How do I insure the tire does not start leaking again (especially during a race)?

Also:
Is the above typical of using sealant? 
Should I be careful not to over inflate the tire?
Should I add a little more sealant now that some has leaked out?



1. There's little to do other than make sure you've put in enough sealant and the hole is sufficiently small that it will seal up.

2.  Typical enough.  Depends on the size of the hole and the amount of goo.

3.The over-inflation thin seems ridiculous. especially as 105 is a common riding pressure.

4. Yes.

The way to protect yourself is store the tire with the sealed up hole at the bottom.  I'd add a little sealant,  pump up the tire, find the hole, take a marker and mark the sidewall next ot the hole, spin the wheel, then put the tire with that mark at the very bottom.  This will result in the goo settling on top of the sealed up hole, which should keep the tire inflated.  

I'd do this tonight.  See how long it lasts, then decided if you need to replace the tire or can keep riding it.
Joaquin said:
@mugwump, thanks.  The Ee look nice.  Have you had any experience on the new Red Aerolink brakes?  Do they hold a candle to the new Shimano stuff?
haven't ridden them enough.  Some say yes.
Interesting stuff on Tire/Rim width, pressure, latex tubes and carbon resin...

http://nyvelocity.com/content/interviews/2014/josh-poertner
@mugwump thanks
mugwump said:
.  See how long it lasts, then decided if you need to replace the tire or can keep riding it.
Or patch it.
Hello.
Has tubular repair become a long lost art?

@dstokes I think the answer is yes, however I started using a guy in Florida who does a great job repairing tubulars for a reasonable rate for cross tires. He also fixes road tires. I learned about him from Ragot