Jul 07, 2014 at 12:22 PM
My meter has a red I ring seal if that helps any as far as dating it? Mike that is probably a piece of metal from the valve stem that broke free during manufacturing.
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Jul 07, 2014 at 01:59 PM
Yacks - you're way off. I'm wavering between baby alien and half eaten unborn twin of the tube.twoyacks said:My meter has a red I ring seal if that helps any as far as dating it? Mike that is probably a piece of metal from the valve stem that broke free during manufacturing.
Jul 07, 2014 at 02:22 PM
Hamilton's vanishing twin !!
Jul 07, 2014 at 07:17 PM
Stages told me to take the cover off and drive home that way (and to avoid any rainstorms on the way home). This should migrate any H2O out of the unit.
Jul 07, 2014 at 08:32 PM
Really? They actually advised you to drive home without a cover to dry it out?
Jul 07, 2014 at 11:25 PM
Yup...there may have been some "wake & bake" going on in the Colorado headquarters.
Jul 08, 2014 at 11:30 AM
Stages back online.....Powercal HR strap not so much....
Jul 10, 2014 at 03:45 AM
der. pulleys for an original sram red rear der. I needs me some...what should I get to replace what has become some very small chinese throwing stars.
Jul 10, 2014 at 08:18 AM
TACX
JP says we should get the ones with 11 teeth
Jul 10, 2014 at 01:20 PM
thanks!
Jul 10, 2014 at 01:24 PM
These cost less than $20 and fit in my SRAM Red derailleur http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Force-Rival-Derailleur-Pulley/dp/B001CJX6D6/
Jul 10, 2014 at 01:36 PM
Thanks...I spent $41 and got some fancy white Tacx pulleys with ceramic bearings...
Jul 10, 2014 at 02:13 PM
What does JP reccommend for Shimano derailleurs?
Jul 10, 2014 at 02:21 PM
I've been wanting to try these:
http://www.jensonusa.com/!J1ncXy70dW5qFcJfLi9ePA!/KCNC-Ceramic-Derailleur-Pulley-Wheel?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CMHhk4r3ur8CFTJo7Aod6UwARw
MIke, want to go in on a bunch? Maybe we could get Ride to order some for us.
http://www.jensonusa.com/!J1ncXy70dW5qFcJfLi9ePA!/KCNC-Ceramic-Derailleur-Pulley-Wheel?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CMHhk4r3ur8CFTJo7Aod6UwARw
MIke, want to go in on a bunch? Maybe we could get Ride to order some for us.
Jul 10, 2014 at 02:30 PM
Enduro and Ceramic Speed seem to have the lowest-resistance pulleys. But the price for the performance advantage might not be worth it. I'd suggest looking into Tacx (either ceramic or steel, ceramic has less drag, steel is chaper) and Origin8 (ceramic)mperlberg said:What does JP reccommend for Shimano derailleurs?
For those still riding 10-tooth pulleys, upgrading to 11-tooth will drop drag and should fit on most 10-speed derailleurs. I've got 11-tooth on my campy when the cages were designed for 10.
Vlad,
I have my doubts about the aluminum ones in terms of wear. There's an ongoing debate about whether the cut-outs hold muck or let it flow through.
Jul 10, 2014 at 11:20 PM
Pro or not pro: Cutting a shim from a matchstick and wedging it next to my valve stem to stop it from rattling, then wrapping the job in a bit of electrical tape to hide it.
Jul 10, 2014 at 11:41 PM
Effective. Pro is to get a section of plastic sheath that comes over the valve stem on latex tubes. See me for the pro move.
Jul 14, 2014 at 05:02 PM
Anybody in Brooklyn have the tools and/or know how to pull out their BB30 BB and lube or replace bearings? I've got some annoying noise coming out of there. If I could borrow those fancy tools, I'd appreciate it. Thanks
Jul 15, 2014 at 02:00 AM
Also, anybody have experience with putting new chainrings on a Quarq? Riken or Elsa. Shouldn't need to be sent back in for a recalibration, right?
Jul 15, 2014 at 02:06 AM
JP might know.konrad said:Also, anybody have experience with putting new chainrings on a Quarq? Riken or Elsa. Shouldn't need to be sent back in for a recalibration, right?
Jul 15, 2014 at 02:08 AM
Correct. No "sendy-backy"konrad said:Also, anybody have experience with putting new chainrings on a Quarq? Riken or Elsa. Shouldn't need to be sent back in for a recalibration, right?
Should just work.
Jul 15, 2014 at 03:43 AM
I have bb30 stuff.
Jul 15, 2014 at 01:53 PM
The bottom down tube bottle cage mount on my Foil is skew-whiff, which makes the bottle poke out like a rocket booster. Don't really want to warranty it, I guess I should just talk to Carbonara?
Jul 15, 2014 at 02:03 PM
Yes. Although there is a tool for re-inserting a screw mount; Ride may have said tool.JohnMalcolmson said:The bottom down tube bottle cage mount on my Foil is skew-whiff, which makes the bottle poke out like a rocket booster. Don't really want to warranty it, I guess I should just talk to Carbonara?
Jul 15, 2014 at 02:41 PM
In this case the hole is actually drilled off center.
Jul 15, 2014 at 03:15 PM
the blunt force solution to this is to use a cheap alloy cage (like the venerable elite ciussi) and bend the cage.
Jul 15, 2014 at 04:09 PM
stupid plastic bike...the "artisan" that crafted that would be ashamed...cept machines don't have feelings...artificial intelligence is addressing that and soon carbon bike molds will feel disappointed in their efforts and jealous of titanium frames.
Jul 15, 2014 at 04:16 PM
Foils have molded in bottle mounts, not like the typical flared rivnuts that go into the hole. Can't really pull them out. You could possibly rethread them straighter, but that means killing the threads in there, not ideal either. I'd honestly grab like a piece of eccentric hardware so the bolt can just tighten up crooked, but sit flush on the cage.Jules said:Yes. Although there is a tool for re-inserting a screw mount; Ride may have said tool.JohnMalcolmson said:The bottom down tube bottle cage mount on my Foil is skew-whiff, which makes the bottle poke out like a rocket booster. Don't really want to warranty it, I guess I should just talk to Carbonara?
Jul 15, 2014 at 06:04 PM
I might try that and drill an off-center hole in the cage.mattie davitt said: grab like a piece of eccentric hardware so the bolt can just tighten up crooked, but sit flush on the cage.
Jul 15, 2014 at 07:32 PM
Konrad,konrad said:Also, anybody have experience with putting new chainrings on a Quarq? Riken or Elsa. Shouldn't need to be sent back in for a recalibration, right?
The first thing is to get a torque wrench. You want to torque the chainring bolts to spec. I think it's 10Nm, but I don't have the brochure in front of me. Make sure your bolts are steel, not aluminum.
The second thing. is are you replacing the rings with identical rings? If yes, recalibration is unnecessary. If not, it could be a good idea. Particularly if you're going to or from an aero outer chain ring. If you're changing the teeth combinations, it could also be a good idea to recalibrate.
Recalibration is fairly simple, though you need a few things. You need go get Qalvin operating (instructions here: https://www.quarq.com/store/item/1711/) and you need a proven weight of 20kg or more. Once you have Qalvin and the weight, Qalvin will take you through the steps
(BTW, for my fellow Quarq users, Quarq released new firmware for the Riken and Elsa in June which should probably increase battery life)