twoyacks said:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/xpedo-launches-new-thrust-e-power-meter-pedals

the anodized blue...so nice

Does that pod on the bottom of the pedal have the electronics? If so.... umm seems like poor engineering. You loose pedal clearance and it's going to get the shit kicked out of it. I'm curious to see the results. 

I'm thinking that the sensors are in the spindle..,& the battery is underneath. I hope the engineers have impact issues sorted. I diverge...still loving my Stages meter. When I got shelled yesterday I chalked it up to my allergies or my allergy meds...then I downloaded the power #'s and I realized that I got dropped because I was supposed to be dropped. I couldn't hold 350 watts anymore. Made me feel better about myself.

@bertucco i wouldn't bother, likely not work or fail down the track.

BB-BS help.

"Knock, knock, knock... Once per crank rotation. Take to T***, they regrease and it's good for a couple of weeks then it comes back (quiet at first but then back to old level).

Back to T***, first they show me a worn/pitted BB cup and want to put a new BB in, but I push them to see if there's play with a new BB cup installed. So it turns out "it's not the BB it's the frame--there's room to drive a small bus between the BB80 and the frame--recommend you warranty the frame with Scott."

Toga uses Loctite to seat the cups. Reading online, I see some mechanics say putting low stick epoxy in there is superior, because if there's any wear the epoxy wears over time, not the frame. Is this like VHS vs Beta or is one method superior?

More importantly, is the frame poked? Don't want to go down the PITA warranty path, but this AND the wonky bottle cage mount--starting to wonder if I got the "disposable" Foil.

Don't be afraid to go the warranty route. You should at least inquire. I had a new BMC in two weeks. They let me keep the old one too, which after a little work from Carbo, has been ripping it up all summer.

Does Paul fix carbon tubular wheels?  

Two questions.

1) Is it normal for Challenge Griffos to go from say 70psi to I don't know 10psi in 5 days? (I pumped them up good and high to stretch over the holiday weekend. Don't want to glue "defective" tires though)

2) Favorite online how-to video for gluing cross tubular using belgian tape and glue?

Thanks!

If you throw a can of Cafee Latex Expresso tire sealant in each wheel it will leak air slower overnight...I put this stuff in my Tubs now as a preventative measure.  I have started training on my tubs on the road...I take an extra can of compressed air/sleant = Cafee Latex and a mini-pump.  I plan on throwing a small bottle of stans sealant in the saddle bag too just in case I get a flat that the Cafee Latex doesn't seal.  For racing I think sealant is great insurance.  Getting up at 4:45 am and dropping $40 for a race only to flat out after a lap or 2 sucks it hard.  

Seems like a lot of people are using sealant in tubs as a preventative measure. And it seems to be working out, which is nice.

I double flatted on tubs at prospect ...put sealant in both wheels and let the tubs sit for days....pressure way down...inflated and rode them...did this several times. If it were true about the latex tubes getting shredded I suspect there would be online chatter or a warning from manufacturers. The Cafee latex has been good. The valve will gum up with sealant over time and u have to unscrew the valve valve core and clean it out.

don't leave CO2 in your tubs or tires. It is a great fast way to fix a flat, but peeps empty the tire when you get home and fill it with air. Leaving the CO2 for a few days will destroy the tube.

Ok

Just when I thought I had my shit together...

So I'm about to start the multi-day process of gluing my cross tubulars, having ordered Vitoria Mastik glue, plus what was described as "Belgian Tape," but turns out is Jantex tape which is looked down upon by both Stu Thorne and Lennard Zinn and I'm wondering if I should just skip the tape altogether and follow the instructions on this video?

http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/08/video/ask-a-mechanic-gluing-tubular-tires_341037

#Iblamestokes if I can't get it together in time for Nittany.

I don't use tape, so don't blame me.

What do we know about Rolf Prima wheels?  I had a set a few years back found them lacking in the stiffness department, especially when stuffing the bike into a turn.  Me's thinking the wider rim versions may have rectified this?  Also are these thing aero or is their data shameless skewed towards their own wheels?  

I'm thinking of the Vigor models

Update: foil dealer sending frame to Scott. There's a documented problem with BB diameter, but not the way mine is out of whack. 50/50 on frame replacement.

Please advise re standard practice re disassembly/rebuilding/shipping cost? How much should Scott shoulder if they give me new frame?

You danced the carbon dance...now you gotta pay the band !!!  Good luck John...secretly hoping this mishap keeps you off the bike and out of shape for the club championships...wait if I just typed that, then it ain't a secret.

JohnMalcolmson said:

Update: foil dealer sending frame to Scott. There's a documented problem with BB diameter, but not the way mine is out of whack. 50/50 on frame replacement. Please advise re standard practice re disassembly/rebuilding/shipping cost? How much should Scott shoulder if they give me new frame?

They pay for shipping, you reassemble.  I've only had one frame replaced, but that seems to be the way it goes.

No wonder my brakes weren't working well. Jagwire housing is crossed of my list.

I use Jagwire because their orange matches my frame better than Shimano but I am not impressed with the cables or housing. Cables are the cheap thin black PTFE veneer rather than super slick like Shimano and SRAM.

hmm, my Jagwire on my Cx bike are into their 3rd season without issue? 4th season on road bike, maybe 3 seasons. I have no problem with them. I do like the Shimano and Campy housings too. I'm using this Ashima housing on my training bike and it works - like cables do!

Someone still up late with tubular gluing experience please tell me that it's okay if:

1) Despite using rulers, base tape visual, that having a slightly wonky roll to my Challenge tubular is normal and won't affect my ass-kicking abilities come race season.
2) When desperately trying to reposition tire properly, certain areas of the tire were easier to pull off of rim than others.

@Marc - don't assume that base tape is centered correctly all the way round the tire. You should try and get the wonky roll out of the tire - and that might mean having uneven amount of base tape showing. But the tread is more important.

Jules said:

Oh for the love of Pete... the brake wars continue!

http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/09/bikes-and-tech/reviews/reviewed-disc-who-shimanos-rim-brakes-of-the-future_343690

While these brakes have been out for a while, velonews calling it out is a big development.  Considering that SRAM was already hedging their disc brake bet with hydraulic rim brakes, it was only a matter of time til Shimano came out with their own solution.  Interestinly, Movistar has been riding with these Shimano brakes on tehir Campy equipped bikes.

I love hydraulic rims brakes...if they could only figure out a way to shrink the reservoir or move into the brake itself.  SRAM brifters with hydraulic cylinders look like they've been doped with viagra.

On hydraulics: why introduce weight and complexity? Keep it simple stupid. That's what I say.