Rudy. Rudy. Rudy.

I've never worn a POC helmet but I do know that Rudy and Giro fit my head well. I do like Giro for updating their style every few years. Rudy seem to not have updated their models or come out with new ones in several years.

mugwump said:

PatrickG said:

You probably can't go wrong with the Garmin, especially if the prce is the same, but... I have to put in a plug for th Joule GPS. I have one and it works great. Useful metrics, customizable displays, and great customer support. You might find one on sale. Stokes and JP also have the Joule.

The Joule GPS is better in a number of ways.  The interval button is easier, switching from "ride" to "interval" screens is simpler and faster, navigation to useful metrics is quicker, you can see your intervals during your ride rather than reviewing them later,there's a visual of the route you've been riding, and it stops and starts quicker than the auto start/stop on the garmin (which if you haven't done so already, you should turn off).  There's also a nice countdown feature on the Joule, which can do either distance or time.

Where the Joule GPS lets me down is acquisition of satellites from crowded urban areas, specifically, my window sill.  The Garmin picks up the satellites from the same spot much faster.  

Memory is smaller on the Joule GPS, but unless you like more than 70 hours of rides on your Garmin, it's no big deal.  

Uploading to Strava directly is easier with the Garmin, but if you use a Joule, the PowerAgent program can do it for you (and to Map My Ride and Training Peaks and Peak to Peak and a few others)

An update to this.  I had an issue with my Joule GPS.  I called Saris.  THey wanted to warranty it.  I didn't think it merited warranty, but hard to say no to a new unit.  

Craig, let me know if you want me to reach out to the Smith rep if its something Kissena wants to consider, they have an orange helmet, w/ MIPS, and plenty of glasses too.

Can this "helmet" issue go to another thread?  Seems better-suited to another place, like sponsorship.

So my Alchemy Orc rear wheel has crapped the bed again.  It binds in a bad way.  If I back pedal the chain falls off...If I lift the rear wheel and spin it by hand, the cranks starts spinning (no free wheel).  I just had to replace the rear bearings last summer...That is a $430 hub...and in a word it is....wait for it...shit.

When did you get it?  Is it an ORC-UL?  Or just regular ORC? Apparently they were recalled: http://www.alchemybicycleworks.com/

It's an original Orc.  Me's think it's from too much grease and too thick grease.  When the hub was rebuilt there was rust leaking out of it...my wheelbuilder went extra heavy on the grease....1st ride in cold weather may have made grease go all congeally 

Did you hit a big pothole?  When my freewheel failed it was because a bearing inside the hub broke.

Yes it was Eric...he just offered to build me a replacement wheel using a White Industries hub and a Pacenti sl23 rim for $350...Which I'm considering...I discovered  small cracks in my rear Stan's rim as well...so the wheel is pretty much chum...  I would need to buy a matching front wheel I suppose....

I've got to "hand" it to these wheels though...we've had some good times together...

(Lightweights from Red Beard)

how much are those things going to cost?

Couple of nickels

twoyacks said:

how much are those things going to cost?

FWIW, a few years back, when JP was testing Lightweights, he let me ride on them for a bit. And to me, the felt, sort of flimsy to me. Yeah, they were sick light, but they did not inspire out of the saddle riding confidence. JP probably has more insightful thoughts on those wheels.

Yacks, put those things out of your mind. If Redbeard makes the same money on Zipps v Lightweights, and the Lightweights retail for twice as much (?), that means, if my brain is working right, that the mark-up on Zipps is huge, and not so much on the Lightweights.

Any carbon hoop I buy, I'm hoping has some kind of Reynolds-like insurance buy-in.

I've attempted to poke around their website a bit, and it's way, way too artsy for my slow internet and old computer.

Lightweights = non starter   looking for something to put the miles on so....likely aluminum clincher...but will likely wait till the new year to pull the trigger.  For now I'm going to ship my rear wheel of to the fine people at Alchemy and see what they can do for me.

I want Lightweights.

I've ridden a set of Gen III Lightweights and they put a huge grin on my face. Unlike Marc I found them super stiff and that coupled with the low weight meant they accelerated really well.

Goodbye red rear. der.  it's been a good 7 years....your replacement will be a force der.  sigh...

Yacks, if you are going to toss that hub I'll take it off your hands.  I'd love to perform an autopsy.

Hub has been resurrected...I removed the axle and reassembled the end caps to spec...it seems to be fixed...so go pick the bones elsewhere you damn filthy vulture!!!

More importantly, is that picture authentic?  Where did you get it?  Was it taken within our lifetimes?  Is that in fact a human skeleton?  I'm concerned for humankind.  My understanding had been that we are on top of the food chain.

The hub in questions has five bearings and taking it apart requires a proprietary tool kit and a working understanding of Java computer programming.  The skeleton above is legit and it happens to belong to the last fella who annoyed me...Don't TANGO with RANGO bitch !

So, in my tool list for headset replacement, I've come across two tools that I just started to wonder if they are required. Namely, a "Crown Race Setting Tool" and a "Crown Race Removal Tool."

Do I need these? In addition to a headset press and cup remover?

Marc Bertucco said:

So, in my tool list for headset replacement, I've come across two tools that I just started to wonder if they are required. Namely, a "Crown Race Setting Tool" and a "Crown Race Removal Tool."

Do I need these? In addition to a headset press and cup remover?

you can probably get away with using a thick slotted screwdriver and a hammer for the removal tool.  For the setting tool, you probably need it, though it's an absurdly simple tool--basically a long steel sleeve.

If you're just changing the headset bearings, leave the race on. No point in changing it. If it's an older external headset and you're changing brand, i.e. Cane Creek to Chris King, then change the race. If the fork is carbon, I wouldn't go at it with a screwdriver. 

Yeah, I gotta change the whole thing. I've got a Cane Creek coming by Friday and will see if Nelson and/or neutral support can lend me some tools, otherwise, I'm just going to buy all the tools so I can get this damn project done already. #indexedsteeringnotgoodforcross

In a world that has gone topsy turvy....the spring inside my sram red rear der. hath snapped....and it was made of...gasp...titanium!  I've heard tale of Sram actually replacing the der, when this happens....anybody have any inside on this urban legend?  perhaps someone with some inside intel (JP)