Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

Oct 13, 2014 at 07:37 PM

thanks dave. i found the solution on page 666 of leonard zinn's "Arcane Velocipide Rites of Antiquity." turns out all i had to do was slather the entire frame in ambergris then cold-smoke it with myrrh in the belltower of a fourteenth-century monastery for forty nights. now it's quieter than a mime in a library. can't believe no one suggested it before.

Jules

Oct 13, 2014 at 08:40 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1i5coU-0_Q

David Yang

Oct 15, 2014 at 01:14 AM

This might be my favorite part name ever:

"Campagnolo EPS Front Derailleur Stiffness Increaser Part"

You don't say...

Edit to include link
http://www.wheelandsprocket.com/78670-campagnolo-eps-front-derailleur-stiffness-increaser-part.aspx

Mark Clifford

Oct 15, 2014 at 02:49 PM

I have Quarq woes.

For the last few months my CinQo Saturn was calibrating consistently in the low 300's and working just fine. However last week, out nowhere, it started spitting out some crazy power numbers -- 3,000 watts for 10 seconds, then 0, then 3,000 watts again, etc. I left it alone at the time, hoping it'd go away.

Yesterday I rode again but this time it registered 0 for the whole ride pretty much, except for some random readings like 2, 8, 10. When I got home I calibrated the unit and it gave me different values every time -- always 1,500+, sometime over 2,500.

I called Quarq. They had me 1) replace the battery; 2) short the unit by reversing the battery; and 3) check that cadence was being measured (it is). They also wanted me to make sure that each of the alloy ring bolts was tightened to 10 n/m. I do not have a tool that'll tighten to that level, but a quick manual check suggests they haven't moved since the day they were put in.

The guy at Quarq consequently suggested I send in the unit. That would be fine if i were in the US and had a spare crank, but I am not and do not.

So... short of shipping it back to Quarq, does anyone have any ideas as to what I could try?

The only things that changed/happened during it working and not working were A) I spent a couple of days riding in some pretty bad rain (but no worse than previous times) and

I loaded the bike in and out of a car a few times during those days.

I will cuddle someone, hard, if they know what's going on here.

Jules

Oct 15, 2014 at 03:31 PM

@Mark, did you check the firmware - you need an ANT+ dongle to do that.

I've only ever had issues when there were big swings in temperature. I believe all the quarq's now auto-zero by backpedalling a few times.

Lastly, check the magnet is misplaced?

Good luck mate!

twoyacks

Oct 15, 2014 at 04:46 PM

Ha ha...Jules said "dongle"

mugwump

Oct 15, 2014 at 05:48 PM

@Mark,

Steel chainring bolts are better than aluminum, hope you have the former, not the latter. Battery testing is a good thing. Magnet check is a good thing.

You could also open up the battery case and leave it open for a day to see if perhaps water leaked in, though I find it unlikely.

in terms of firmware, quarq can probably tell you what version you're on, provided you give them the serial number for the crank.

Otherwise, scour eBay for a used crank that will fit your BB and is nearby, and figure out a cheap way to send the crank back.

PatrickGrehan

Oct 15, 2014 at 06:15 PM

I posted a reply to Mark's post that the forum said is pending approval. Since when are forum posts moderated? Not sure what that is about. Anyway, Mark I had a similar issue with a cinqo I bought used. After ruling out the magnet etc., it wasn't repairable and I did an out of warranty replacement with a new Riken for $500. You may end up doing the same thing unless you ditch your addiction to power data or get a stages meter. Sorry dude

Mark Clifford

Oct 15, 2014 at 06:17 PM

Thanks Jules, JP. I'll give your suggestions as a try.

@Jules -- interesting you mention the temperature-change thing. Two days before it started going crazy I rode a climb that went from 4,500ft to 9,000ft and with it a drop from 65 to below 40 degrees, then back to 65. Thing is though, the unit was fine the next day. It was only two days after that it started going crazy. I have performed a few manual zeros since though, which I guess would fix any issues brought about by the temp changes?

vlad

Oct 15, 2014 at 06:26 PM

Mark, it's dead. Ride without power until you get back and can properly warranty it. How do I know this?

http://kissenacycling.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/68263/#Comment_68263

Riken is pretty fucking sweet though.

Jules

Oct 16, 2014 at 12:00 AM

Patrick, the forum has always been moderated but posts aren't supposed to be queued for any approval.

Vanilla has had a ddos and a clust go down in the last few days - I'll check your permissions for anything funky but that just sounds like a bug.

You can follow them (oh the excitement) on twitter @vanilla

Mark Clifford

Oct 16, 2014 at 06:09 AM

@vlad / patrick ... sure sounds like it's a goner. arh well fuck it -- at least the thing still spins.

twoyacks

Oct 18, 2014 at 01:50 PM

These seem like a deal

https://www.probikekit.com/probikekit/my.basket

accepting opinions on these...anyone...Bueller....Bueller

twoyacks

Oct 18, 2014 at 09:29 PM

http://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-wheels/shimano-dura-ace-wh-9000-c24-cl-clincher-wheelset/10781801.html

Ryan J

Oct 20, 2014 at 09:19 PM

Mark I wouldn't assume it's a goner at all. A few times, mine has gone haywire after being ridden in hard rain only to go back to normal functioning after a few days.

Unknown

Oct 21, 2014 at 01:28 AM

No formatter is installed for the format not-found

twoyacks

Oct 21, 2014 at 01:40 AM

I always had good luck with the Manitou forks from that generation.

twoyacks

Oct 21, 2014 at 01:42 AM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MANITOU-ANSWER-PRO-XC-MACH-5-1-1-8-X-6-1-2-26-INCH-SUSPENSION-CANTILEVER-FORK-/281444845744?pt=US_Forks&hash=item41876b88b0

Unknown

Oct 21, 2014 at 12:41 PM

No formatter is installed for the format not-found

mattie davitt

Oct 21, 2014 at 05:52 PM

All 1" forks are terrible. Sorry. I wouldn't even bother.

Unknown

Oct 22, 2014 at 05:41 PM

No formatter is installed for the format not-found

Marc Bertucco

Oct 22, 2014 at 08:44 PM

So, seeking cycling computer recommendations.

Garmin versus Joule GPS?

Since I'm new to all this, I gotta get the "bundle" model. So looking at prices it seems, from Garmin, I could get a 510 or an older 800 for roughly the same price.

Joule GPS with strap and speed/cadence sensor in the same ballpark.

mperlberg

Oct 22, 2014 at 09:29 PM

Get the garmin.

Jules

Oct 22, 2014 at 10:44 PM

Garmin. No contest.

eloy

Oct 22, 2014 at 10:51 PM

Garmin.

PatrickGrehan

Oct 23, 2014 at 12:07 AM

You probably can't go wrong with the Garmin, especially if the prce is the same, but... I have to put in a plug for th Joule GPS. I have one and it works great. Useful metrics, customizable displays, and great customer support. You might find one on sale. Stokes and JP also have the Joule.

twoyacks

Oct 23, 2014 at 12:18 AM

No love for my Cateye and it's big wonking liquid crystal display???

mattie davitt

Oct 23, 2014 at 01:36 AM

Gwynna Smith said:

mattie davitt said:

All 1" forks are terrible. Sorry. I wouldn't even bother.

Can you elaborate, Mattie? This is going to be for light trail riding, the occasional rock garden at Stewart. No racing, nothing serious.

I can't think of a 1" suspension fork made in the last 15 years, and generally, the forks before that are more trouble then they're worth. I'd stick the biggest tire that fit the frame/brakes (2.3/2.4?) and let it roll. Old forks are flexy, bouncy, heavy pieces of crap.

mugwump

Oct 23, 2014 at 03:01 AM

mattie davitt said:

Gwynna Smith said:

mattie davitt said:

All 1" forks are terrible. Sorry. I wouldn't even bother.

Can you elaborate, Mattie? This is going to be for light trail riding, the occasional rock garden at Stewart. No racing, nothing serious.

I can't think of a 1" suspension fork made in the last 15 years, and generally, the forks before that are more trouble then they're worth. I'd stick the biggest tire that fit the frame/brakes (2.3/2.4?) and let it roll. Old forks are flexy, bouncy, heavy pieces of crap.

If it's light trail riding and the occasional rock garden, stick with the "rigid" fork and work on your skillz. Think about riding your cross bike. Really.

mugwump

Oct 23, 2014 at 03:08 AM

PatrickG said:

You probably can't go wrong with the Garmin, especially if the prce is the same, but... I have to put in a plug for th Joule GPS. I have one and it works great. Useful metrics, customizable displays, and great customer support. You might find one on sale. Stokes and JP also have the Joule.

The Joule GPS is better in a number of ways. The interval button is easier, switching from "ride" to "interval" screens is simpler and faster, navigation to useful metrics is quicker, you can see your intervals during your ride rather than reviewing them later,there's a visual of the route you've been riding, and it stops and starts quicker than the auto start/stop on the garmin (which if you haven't done so already, you should turn off). There's also a nice countdown feature on the Joule, which can do either distance or time.

Where the Joule GPS lets me down is acquisition of satellites from crowded urban areas, specifically, my window sill. The Garmin picks up the satellites from the same spot much faster.

Memory is smaller on the Joule GPS, but unless you like more than 70 hours of rides on your Garmin, it's no big deal.

Uploading to Strava directly is easier with the Garmin, but if you use a Joule, the PowerAgent program can do it for you (and to Map My Ride and Training Peaks and Peak to Peak and a few others)