Another question, specifically for Vollbach or Martins, or guys who work at Trek dealers. It seems that somehow, through black magic, I can only assume, I lost a seal or cover or something to the freehub body for Bontrager Race Lite wheels. When you look "into it" around the edge where the axle goes, all you see are piles of grease, instead of a smooth hard cover as on my other freehub bodies.

The park website says something ominous like, never attempt to remove this part during freehub service. So, basically I'm assuming I'm kind of screwed.

Any of you guys have that replacement part in stock?

Marc Bertucco said:

Another question, specifically for Vollbach or Martins, or guys who work at Trek dealers. It seems that somehow, through black magic, I can only assume, I lost a seal or cover or something to the freehub body for Bontrager Race Lite wheels. When you look "into it" around the edge where the axle goes, all you see are piles of grease, instead of a smooth hard cover as on my other freehub bodies.

The park website says something ominous like, never attempt to remove this part during freehub service. So, basically I'm assuming I'm kind of screwed.

Any of you guys have that replacement part in stock?

Marc, not all the freehub bodies have a seal there...post a picture?

Brendan Rigby said:

  I believe I fixed my creaky BB30 by pressing in new bearings. 

I also had to replace bearings on my CAAD10 after a relatively short period of time (~6 months)

On the other hand, the BB30 bearings on my van Dessel G&T are still fine after 2 years (not as many miles).

I watched an FSA video about checking the alignment of the bearing sockets in the frame, which implied that there was a possibility of misalignment on some frames and that this situation would cause the bearings to wear out more quickly. A poor installation of the bearings would have the same result (I hope you did a good job Rigby).

A month or two ago I had god awful noises coming from my CAAD10 BB30. I squirted some oil (not chain lube, OIL) onto the axle and it has been noiseless ever since. At some point I will overhaul (just to clean everything and regrease). Indeed, I just overhauled the BB on my van Dessel, which started making creaking noises today (at least I think it was the BB, I'll tell you tomorrow). You should plan to overhaul your BB periodically, whether or not it is BB30. Once a year is my schedule (though BB30 seems to cry for it more frequently).

I'll be glad to move on from BB30 after retrofitting GXP adapters and using Rival cranks in anticipation of our Stages deal.

Pair it with a Chris King BB. If you have the means I highly recommend it...mine will be at Floyd tomorrow smashing it with the ferocity of a screaming turtle!!!

twoyacks said:

Pair it with a Chris King BB. If you have the means I highly recommend it...mine will be at Floyd tomorrow smashing it with the ferocity of a screaming turtle!!!

if you gonna replace BB30 bearings, get Enduro angular contact, much longer lifespan

Brendan Rigby said:

So, if you just need bearings, ebay or google.  Every cartridge bearing size has a two-part code.  The code for BB30 bearings is 6806 RS.  6806 is the size, RS is the type of seal.  Sometimes it's written as 2RS.  RS means rubber seals (other options include no seals, steel seals, clubbed seals).  

I believe you mean "Clubbed Baby Seals" since the others will not fit correctly.

When I turn my front wheel more than 50 degrees to the right it causes enough tension in my rear brake cable to cause brake pads to rub.  Is loosening the cable tension going to be the best way to remedy this?  Thanks

I should add, using Avid Shorty brakes on a Trek frame.

You need longer cable housing.

avizukerman said:

When I turn my front wheel more than 50 degrees to the right it causes enough tension in my rear brake cable to cause brake pads to rub.  Is loosening the cable tension going to be the best way to remedy this?  Thanks

What @Stokes said

Thanks

JP, anyone...have any intel on a new Joule GPS in the works? Or am I just making shit up in my head?

More gear questions. So changing my threaded outboard BB on my cross bike. Shimano. And low and behold, all the numbers printed on the new BB are matchy-matchy with my older outboard bearing threaded BB.

BUT the outside diameter of the new BB is smaller????

And my tool, a park tool, doesn't fit, but then I see there's an adapter that came with the new BB so fine, okay and I start screwing the cups in, careful not to cross-thread, etc, but then when it's all together?

My frame BB shell external diameter is larger to the point where the outer edge of the new BB cups don't match flush against the frame. The frame, the outer diameter, is just that hair bigger.

And so I go online to see if I ordered the wrong part, and I see that no, it appears that you basically have two choices, and neither of them have to do with exterior diameter.

Muchado about nothing? Everything lubed up with Phil Wood, screwed together fine, appears to be nice and snug and spinny and all things good about BB action (course I'll bring my tools with me this weekend), but do I have to worry about the exterior of the BB and the exterior of the frame BB shell not being matchy-matchy?

Marc Bertucco said:

JP, anyone...have any intel on a new Joule GPS in the works? Or am I just making shit up in my head?

making shit up as far as I know.

Marc Bertucco said:

More gear questions. So changing my threaded outboard BB on my cross bike. Shimano. And low and behold, all the numbers printed on the new BB are matchy-matchy with my older outboard bearing threaded BB.

BUT the outside diameter of the new BB is smaller????

And my tool, a park tool, doesn't fit, but then I see there's an adapter that came with the new BB so fine, okay and I start screwing the cups in, careful not to cross-thread, etc, but then when it's all together?

My frame BB shell external diameter is larger to the point where the outer edge of the new BB cups don't match flush against the frame. The frame, the outer diameter, is just that hair bigger.

And so I go online to see if I ordered the wrong part, and I see that no, it appears that you basically have two choices, and neither of them have to do with exterior diameter.

Muchado about nothing? Everything lubed up with Phil Wood, screwed together fine, appears to be nice and snug and spinny and all things good about BB action (course I'll bring my tools with me this weekend), but do I have to worry about the exterior of the BB and the exterior of the frame BB shell not being matchy-matchy?

So you had an Ultegra bottom bracket that you pulled for a new Ultegra bottom bracket and the exterior cup diameter is slightly smaller, like by 1-2mm, and, as a result, the exterior cup diameter is not quite the same diameter as the aluminum frame's BB shell?  The first one is odd, as shimano generally doesn't switch sizes for tools--though they did include their own tool this time. The second one doesn't matter.

+1 for the trixie. It's my only lockring tool, and does a good job for all track purposes.

That's nice, Eloy.  It just went on my Xmas list.  

Not the perfect thread for this, but related to Craig's recent new sponsorship announcement, if we are looking into new lid sponsors, then, FWIW, I would love to have a helmet with one of those trick "cold weather" covers.

Here's the trick cover

if it's about making requests. I hope we make every effort under the sun and them some more, to keep Rudy. They have been a KCC supporter for over 12 years. Those sort of things really matters.

And they are one of the few makes where a number of their helmets fit my head well.

Then in the interest of opening up for feedback - what if there were options from both POC and Giro?

Giro 1000%

I've always felt Giros fit the best. To me they look the best too. Although, I'm still not entirely on board with the new skater style.

POC seems to be the unofficial team helmet these days as a number of our riders have basically switched to their lids during cross season.

Regardless of brand though, from a racing point of view, I think we need to stick with bright orange.