Bruce, one thought, sewing it will make it hard to fit a hat under in winter.

Cyclocrossers,
What are the shoes that you recommend???

Thierry Bonnaire said:

Cyclocrossers,
What are the shoes that you recommend???

I'm partial to Shimano shoes, because they tend to fit my feet well. Whatever brand you get, be sure to get a model that accepts/has fittings for toe spikes. Also some say that it's better not to get the top of the line MTB shoes, which may be too stiff for running. That seems to make sense to me. Although, since I've never owned a pair of $300+ top of the line shoe (road or mountain), I can't say for sure from personal experience.

There's not a ton of running in cross racing, but there is enough scrambling on and off the bike that I would think a little flex might not be a bad thing. Also, who wants to spend $300 on bike shoes? (Of course if you are into Sidis, that's like the price of their entry model...on clearance sale, right?)

Thank you Marc for your advice, like you I am partial to Shimano shoes and I just got myself a pair of XC-51 which were in my budget range.

sounds like you just got one you like...

in general best suggestion, if you like your road shoe get the similar MTB model, else, any MTB will be good to get started.

Looking forward to seeing you in the CX races.

eloy said:

sounds like you just got one you like...

in general best suggestion, if you like your road shoe get the similar MTB model, else, any MTB will be good to get started.

Looking forward to seeing you in the CX races.

In general, shoe companies use the same last throughout their line.  If the road shoe fits, then the MTB/cx version will as well.  

Since I'm picky about foot issues, I either use the same insole in both shoes or try to get an identical insole for my other shoes.  

I flatted my vittoria tubular yesterday,I tried using the "pit stop" repair sealant , but it didn't work , what  am I doing wrong, can I use a second can.?

My recommendation...when using pit stop put your finger over the hole when u see sealant blowing out...this allows sealant to gather and sort of congeal near the hole.  If one can didn't work then u should put the wheel aside and buy a bottle of Tufo extreme sealant...you need to remove the valve stem or core to squeeze it in to your tire...but that stuff is hot sticky mess and it will plug big holes.  I've been training on my aluminum tubs lately with just a pump and a bottle of that stuff in my bag.

Mark,
     It's possible the hole is too big to seal.  

     However, I'd first try to pump up your tire with a floor pump.  Big blasts of air to get the tire in shape and to find the hole.  Put the hole at the bottom.  The stuff should start to come through fast, then hopefully, slow down.  Then stop.  Leave the wheel with the hole at the bottom.  Go so far as to use a marker on the sidewall to remind you where the hole is.  Try to pump the tire up to full pressure.  Then let it sit.  See how it holds.

JP , the hole is very small , ill try putting it at the bottom as suggested , also how long should i wait to pump to full pressure?

I'd try to get it to full pressure right away.  It will force more sealant through the hole.  Pump it up hard, you'll hear and see stuff coming out.  It should slow down.  Let it go through until it stops.  Pump up again.  See if it holds.  

Another tubular question for the wise elders!

Do I need to remove all the old glue before re-glueing? The last glue job is about a year old, in fairly good condition, and it's not coming off the rim without a fight.

I will be using these wheels in crits...so it's important the new tub stays on

@Niall - Based on your description - No you do not need to remove the previous glue. I do advise that you use the same glue this time. The theory is that the different chemical compositions of different glues interact badly and adhesion is reduced. I get the chemistry theory, although I have never actually heard of anyone rolling a tub because they mixed glues, so it might be an old belgian wife's tale. Still better safe ...

If however there are lumps of glue on the rim, or bits of old base tape from previous tubs - then you should remove the old glue.

That looks fairly clean in the photo. I would not bother removing that.

Paul Carbonera fixed my cracked carbon front rim for $100.  Take THAT Prospect Park and your stupid, ugly potholes.

I just replaced the BOA cord in my Lakes. Not as scary a process as I had feared and I can now cinch em down enough to flatten my arches.

If anyone's BOA cord is getting stiff or hard to operate:

http://www.boatechnology.com/repair-center/

My CX170s used the L3+ kit. Not sure if that is common for Lakes or not. The only frustrating part of the process was trying to figure out by the photo only which parts kit to order. There doesn't seem to be a searchable product database anywhere.

Jim,
     Thanks.

     Every Boa owner should know you can get free parts through the Boa website.

     While I have broken a lace or two in the past, my current and previous iteration of S-Works shoes haven't managed that.  

     For me, the issue is the Boa's no longer holding my feet down.  Luckily, on the latest iteration of S-Works, the Boa is in a self-contained pod and can just be pried out and a new one pressed in.  

JP, where can you get the Specialized S-Works Road on the Boa site? Do you have the link? 

I like how they turned the brakes into farings, skirting the UCI rules. http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/new-specialized-aero-road-bike-prototype-spotted

JohnMalcolmson said:

JP, where can you get the Specialized S-Works Road on the Boa site? Do you have the link? 

http://www4.boatechnology.com/warranty.php

My shoes take the 

Low Power Reel - S2-S

Yours should as well.  You'll need two sets to re-do your shoes.  Choose between black and white dials.

Yeah, figuring out exactly which repair kit to get was sort of a pain. I couldn't find a list anywhere. I went by the design of the dial graphics.

Thanks much JP... This is so lame, I wait 3 months to shell out $40 to Bike Habitat when I could have just asked for free warranty from BOA, delivered to me no less. Grrr.

JohnMalcolmson said:

Thanks much JP... This is so lame, I wait 3 months to shell out $40 to Bike Habitat when I could have just asked for free warranty from BOA, delivered to me no less. Grrr.

Well...With Specialized, you get the matching dials.  Not that it matters once you have the proper driver (I've got several).  

What's weird about Specialized is how little stock they have of the dials and the heel pads to sell.  

Anybody able to find a link to the assembly/torque specs for a 2015 propel?
Giant's website is a bit of a dog's breakfast for finding stuff.

Jules said:

Anybody able to find a link to the assembly/torque specs for a 2015 propel?
Giant's website is a bit of a dog's breakfast for finding stuff.

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/_upload_au/Global Owner's Manual_v02_EN_20130902.pdf

One search on DuckDuckGo.  Don't think it's all you want.  

thanks JP. Yeah, not the droids I'm looking for. But nice full page illustration on how to mount my wheel reflector...

This might help.  

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts

there's a pdf of values.  

After 20+ years on Speedplays...I'm considering a pedal swap....something with float but a bigger platform for my big honking, and wide size 12 feet.
These Time's look the bit...any insight?
http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/features/rxspedals.shtml