Jan 23, 2016 at 02:14 AM
Yangs....never let the facts get in the way of a good Garmin bashing
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Jan 23, 2016 at 08:36 PM
FYI...that Cateye whatever will be on my bars tomorrow morning when I snap your legs like stale breadsticksDavid Yang said:Hey Yacks, remember that time your Cateye whatever headunit fell off during a park race and the only reason you got it back was because I was marshalling and someone picked it up and handed it to me to place in Charlie's lost and found box (hint: he really doesn't have a lost and found box)?
Where's your Messiah now???
Jan 23, 2016 at 09:12 PM
Nice reference 90s bro, why don't you go raise da roof with a macarena and zoomba session and mmmbop your way to letting the dogs out then kick back with a zima and crystal Pepsi cocktail at the limelight with carrot top to discuss the latest xfiles episode and smash mouth album?
Jan 23, 2016 at 11:10 PM
FYI I used to finish every epic night with a Zima....Yes I would go to the Limelight...I suspect your club was The Tunnel...I saw Carrot Top at Fordham in 1991...Smash Mouth is an inside term for dropping a dookie...Guns & Roses are back....So is The X-Files...The truth is still out there hoss...your truth is me dropping a Smash Mouth on your head at 8:00 a.m. tomorrow
Jan 23, 2016 at 11:44 PM
Hahaha, we really need to take this love fest to the trashtalk thread.
Also, tomorrow is SST so I'm keeping it civil on Zwift.
Also, tomorrow is SST so I'm keeping it civil on Zwift.
Jan 28, 2016 at 07:05 PM
Cleaning up tires, with a pick and glue:
http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/custom-kit-new-sunglasses-ice-vests-and-power-meters-at-the-tour-down-under-gallery/
http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/custom-kit-new-sunglasses-ice-vests-and-power-meters-at-the-tour-down-under-gallery/
Jan 29, 2016 at 03:23 PM
I like the idea, but I'm going to throw some caution out there.
CA, or Cyanoacrylate, comes in different strengths and thicknesses. It's used for general gluing, and works well sealing cuts to the skin. I build balsa model airplanes where it has wicking properties and dries extremely quickly. I don't use it anymore because it's slightly toxic and I finally became allergic to it.
Also, it dries very hard (difficult to sand) so too much in a tire could potentially add a hard little egg inside the rubber or become brittle. I think the pros probably ride more than I do, so I'll throw a tire out instead of trying to fix it, and go through 5 or 6 rear tires in a season (on 2 bikes).
I'm willing to bet that team mechanic gets the sniffles from that stuff now every time he uncaps it, even from the Super Glue which is generally not as strong as other types.
Jan 29, 2016 at 05:05 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd1ciPnTGKg
Feb 02, 2016 at 06:44 PM
Does anyone have any experience with those cheap plastic chain cleaners like this one: http://www.parktool.com/product/cyclone-chain-scrubber-cm-5-2
Are they effective at all?
Are they effective at all?
Feb 02, 2016 at 07:28 PM
Yeah, they work fairly well in my opinion. They can make a mess if you're not careful though.
Feb 02, 2016 at 07:57 PM
I'm not sure where it is but there is a amazing thread on the forum by @AdamSeanMiles said:Yeah, they work fairly well in my opinion. They can make a mess if you're not careful though.
about his ultrasonic jewelry cleaning method. I swear by it.
Definitely not the most eco-friendly solution but sweet fancy moses that chain gets clean!
Feb 02, 2016 at 08:13 PM
I use both methods.Jules said:I'm not sure where it is but there is a amazing thread on the forum by @AdamSeanMiles said:Yeah, they work fairly well in my opinion. They can make a mess if you're not careful though.
about his ultrasonic jewelry cleaning method. I swear by it.
Definitely not the most eco-friendly solution but sweet fancy moses that chain gets clean!
For the Park or similar Pedro's scrubber, do it outside, or on a floor that can take the mess and has a drain. Rinse off with warm to hot water first, then fill cleaner with degreaser to line (you also can just spray the degreaser on the chain). Install over chain. Then 8-10 crank revolutions. Dump out cleaner, add soapy water. Reinstall, another 8-10 revolutions, dump out soapy water. Rinse with water.
For the ultrasonic cleaner, I got a small one sold by Brookstone on eBay. about $25 including shipping. I spray degreaser on the chain, let it soak in for a few minutes. Then cover the chain with 1/2 degreaser 1/2 water. All degreaser if it's really bad. Then I let the machine do it's thing. Because I have a cheap model, I usually let it go through two eight-minute cycles before taking out the chain.
To me, the big problem with the ultrasonic is that most 11-speed chains don't have reusable master links. The ultrasonic cleaner bonus is that when my wife saw it, she asked if she could clean jewelry in it. Of course.
Feb 03, 2016 at 03:30 PM
^JP do you use the Adam trick of soaking the chain in alcohol after to drive the water out?
Feb 03, 2016 at 05:30 PM
never. Interesting idea. wonder about what kind of residue it leaves.Jules said:^JP do you use the Adam trick of soaking the chain in alcohol after to drive the water out?
Feb 03, 2016 at 06:02 PM
Feb 03, 2016 at 06:16 PM
Probably depends on what kind of alcohol and %.
Like this may not leave behind any residue:
...but this might:
Like this may not leave behind any residue:
...but this might:
Feb 03, 2016 at 06:32 PM
Dave you just have to slurp on the chain a little harder with the 6point
Feb 03, 2016 at 06:47 PM
That'll cut up your gums reaaal bad.
BTW, the Park's/Pedro's chain cleaning contraption is not great. It leaves your cassette and chain ring gross and if you're not super duper careful it will spray dirty solvent all over your stays, wheels, room, cat, whatever is nearby.
I don't know if this is any less annoying or effective, but in my old apartment with limited space, I would pull the chain and dump it into a big glass jar full of solvent, cap the lid on and shake the crap out of it and let it sit while I ate another deep fried hot pocket breaded with mac and cheese. I would then fish it out, let most of the solvent drip back into the jar and wipe down the chain with a clean rag. Reinstall chain and lube as necessary.
BTW, the Park's/Pedro's chain cleaning contraption is not great. It leaves your cassette and chain ring gross and if you're not super duper careful it will spray dirty solvent all over your stays, wheels, room, cat, whatever is nearby.
I don't know if this is any less annoying or effective, but in my old apartment with limited space, I would pull the chain and dump it into a big glass jar full of solvent, cap the lid on and shake the crap out of it and let it sit while I ate another deep fried hot pocket breaded with mac and cheese. I would then fish it out, let most of the solvent drip back into the jar and wipe down the chain with a clean rag. Reinstall chain and lube as necessary.
Feb 03, 2016 at 07:55 PM
@mugwump @Jules
If you get "200 proof" alcohol (ethanol/ispopropanol), I say 200 proof/100% but there is always some water in there (hence it is usually 99% or 95% pure) there should be only two ingredients: the alcohol and water. The alcohol evapourates at a much lower temperature than the water so it dries super quick, at room temperature. Due to the much higher concentration of alcohol to water, it essentially means you force out residual water from between the links that got there from washing and replace it with alcohol, which duly dries in minutes, leaving a clean and DRY chain. The 1 or 5% water in the alcohol is moot, even if it were to get stuck between the links and only the alcohol evapourate, you'd still be 20x better off than if you hadn't used the alcohol (assuming you started with 95% pure).
The alcohol can to a limited degree discolour the outside of the chain, depending on the quality. For example, I see this with Shimano Ultegra 6701 but NOT with Dura Ace 7901 chains- must be the coating. In any case, this discoulouring has no significant effect on the chain and you are going to chuck the chain due to 'stretch' long before you give a hoot about any sort of minimal corrosion.
Here's a dude who follows more or less teh same protocol for ultrasonic chain cleaning, but instead of alcohol to dry out the chain, he uses and air compressor. Have a watch. He too mentions the minimal corrosion (
https://youtu.be/FVoYE9YHn0k?t=5m43s < illustrated here) and also, by chance is showing it on an Ultegra 6701 chain.
TL/DR - any other cleaning other than ultrasonic, followed by drying between the links (an essential step otherwise your first ride will coat your cassette in black liquid) is a weak imitation of a good job.
If you get "200 proof" alcohol (ethanol/ispopropanol), I say 200 proof/100% but there is always some water in there (hence it is usually 99% or 95% pure) there should be only two ingredients: the alcohol and water. The alcohol evapourates at a much lower temperature than the water so it dries super quick, at room temperature. Due to the much higher concentration of alcohol to water, it essentially means you force out residual water from between the links that got there from washing and replace it with alcohol, which duly dries in minutes, leaving a clean and DRY chain. The 1 or 5% water in the alcohol is moot, even if it were to get stuck between the links and only the alcohol evapourate, you'd still be 20x better off than if you hadn't used the alcohol (assuming you started with 95% pure).
The alcohol can to a limited degree discolour the outside of the chain, depending on the quality. For example, I see this with Shimano Ultegra 6701 but NOT with Dura Ace 7901 chains- must be the coating. In any case, this discoulouring has no significant effect on the chain and you are going to chuck the chain due to 'stretch' long before you give a hoot about any sort of minimal corrosion.
Here's a dude who follows more or less teh same protocol for ultrasonic chain cleaning, but instead of alcohol to dry out the chain, he uses and air compressor. Have a watch. He too mentions the minimal corrosion (
https://youtu.be/FVoYE9YHn0k?t=5m43s < illustrated here) and also, by chance is showing it on an Ultegra 6701 chain.TL/DR - any other cleaning other than ultrasonic, followed by drying between the links (an essential step otherwise your first ride will coat your cassette in black liquid) is a weak imitation of a good job.
Feb 03, 2016 at 10:52 PM
I am honestly confused, are there adults, who are not professional cyclists, that have the time to do this? do they actually ride?
When I saw the original thread about the ultrasonic cleaners, I thought you guys were joking.
peoples... apply some degreaser with a rag, and/or some soap at the car wash and be done. spend the extra time riding.
When I saw the original thread about the ultrasonic cleaners, I thought you guys were joking.
peoples... apply some degreaser with a rag, and/or some soap at the car wash and be done. spend the extra time riding.
Feb 03, 2016 at 11:26 PM
^moronic statement, Eloy
The whole process takes less hands-on time than wiping and brushing the chain by hand, that's the point. Also, wiping a chain with a rag doesn't clean it.
The whole process takes less hands-on time than wiping and brushing the chain by hand, that's the point. Also, wiping a chain with a rag doesn't clean it.
Feb 04, 2016 at 01:01 AM
We can literally just cut and paste excerpts from Sheldon's article on chains and have the same exact conversation we are having now.
Feb 04, 2016 at 03:35 AM
Feb 04, 2016 at 03:37 AM
Feb 04, 2016 at 05:59 PM
love the spaceman!
But yes, it actually does take way less time and leaves you with a heck-clean drive train.
I think the issue is if you have time to train you (by definition) have time to maintain your gear.
But yes, it actually does take way less time and leaves you with a heck-clean drive train.
I think the issue is if you have time to train you (by definition) have time to maintain your gear.
Feb 04, 2016 at 08:26 PM
You chain would stay clean in the vacuum of space. Also aerodynamics are moot. Granted you may need to frequently recalibrate your Stages power meter because of the 200 degree temperature swings between shade and non-shade.
Feb 04, 2016 at 09:02 PM
Obviously. Duh.Dan Reiners said:You chain would stay clean in the vacuum of space. Also aerodynamics are moot. Granted you may need to frequently recalibrate your Stages power meter because of the 200 degree temperature swings between shade and non-shade.
Feb 08, 2016 at 03:14 PM
So I bought a vintage (lugged steel Schwinn, what else) :"hybrid" bike that is a stem, drop bar, and STI shifters swap away from being a "join Eloy at Cunningham" CX bike. I just need suitable tires and the Clement MXP seems like a good and affordable all-rounder. Any other suggestions?
Feb 08, 2016 at 03:54 PM
Yes, the Clement MXP or PDX will be kinda great for Cunningham.
(I'm usually on PDX clinchers when there)
(I'm usually on PDX clinchers when there)
Feb 08, 2016 at 03:57 PM
David - I'll give you my Maxxis Raze (clincher) if you want it. Lots of life left. I'm trying to get rid of clutter in my apt. (I have a pair of Challenge tires and just bought Clement MXPs).
http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-258-120-raze
http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-258-120-raze