Brendan Rigby said:

don't forget to think about it in the other direction too...you'll spin out faster on a downhill!  (not going to offer you the maths atm)

Maths?  Only in the UK.

These numbers seem to be consistently awful: 
66% L / 0% R — L/R Torque Effectiveness

JohnMalcolmson said:

These numbers seem to be consistently awful: 
66% L / 0% R — L/R Torque Effectiveness

18% L / 0% R — L/R Pedal Smoothness
Cadence is around 90-100rpm. I seem to recall Computrainer spin-scan was about 78%. What are other people's numbers like? 

John,
     For some reason I can't generate this chart in WKO+

@mugwump The data comes from Garmin Connect.

JohnMalcolmson said:

@mugwump The data comes from Garmin Connect.

perhaps my quarq doesn't report data which can generate such info.  I went to Garmin Connect and couldn't find the analytic.

BTW, I came across this tool the other day.  Think I'm going to order it from Redbeard



It's a better looking, more complete BB press at a better price ($35, according to Wheels) than I've seen anywhere else.  

Oooh, I want one of those.

http://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools/presses-extractors/universal-bottom-bracket-press.html

it is pretty

Stupid question: Could this possibly work on wheel bearings?

David Yang said:

Stupid question: Could this possibly work on wheel bearings?

There are two issues. The first is the diameter of the threaded shaft.  The second is the diameter of the cup sizes.  If the axle is as wide or wider than the shaft, then possibly, but that's only the first part.  You'd also have to have the right external diameter of the bearing you're pressing in.

My guess is probably not. 

David Yang said:

Stupid question: Could this possibly work on wheel bearings?

you'd need lots of small drifts and also the threaded rod might be too large for some wheel bearings/hubs.  it says the rod is 1/2".

this one might work better for wheel bearings: http://wheelsmfg.com/press-1-handle-rod-assembly.html

you could look up the bearings you have, find their ID (inner diameter) and make sure the press is smaller than that.

the issue you'll have is getting drifts that are flush with the bearing (not difficult but expensive; http://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools/presses-extractors/small-sealed-bearing-press.html) to avoid simply pressing against hub shell instead...hard for me to explain with words

you can use old bearings as drifts but frankly they introduce a lot of error because if you throw 5 bearings onto the rod each one moves independently.  major inconvenience.

I bought a cheap hub bearing press from Boca bearings several years ago.  It has worked out fine for the few times I've used it.

Ah, duh, the threaded shaft (1/2") and the presses, of course.  Should have thought it through.  Guess I'm asking santa for 2 different bearing presses this year.

JohnMalcolmson said:

These numbers seem to be consistently awful: 
66% L / 0% R — L/R Torque Effectiveness

18% L / 0% R — L/R Pedal Smoothness
Cadence is around 90-100rpm. I seem to recall Computrainer spin-scan was about 78%. What are other people's numbers like? 

John,
   I can't get the data as my Quarq isn't equipped for it.  

   Tim Cusack posted a short eBook on the subject over in the Training Peaks thread.

The above is the problem with dual sided power readings....Ignorance is bliss

the guy with hub based power meter agrees with old Lefty here. Ignorance is bliss, I just assume even 50/50 power between left and right! 

Dan, you don't have to assume, the power meter is assuming on your behalf!

Cross is coming: Advice for upgrading a Surly Cross Check?

My Surly Cross Check is currently rigged up in what I’ll call “El Camino mode”: not fully a utility vehicle, nor a sleek and speedy coupe, but boasting a dedicated, even obsessive fan base (me). I built up the bike myself about six years ago, when I worked at a shop and bought the frame from a co-worker. Around this time last year, I turned it into a touring machine. It flourished in the role. Then, on a whim last fall, I pre-registered for couple ‘cross races: Sunken Meadow and Elm City. I took off the racks, slapped on some CX clinchers, and swapped out my Brooks saddle for a crummy Bontrager I had lying around. Not bad! It was certainly good enough for this newbie. I’m not yet sure how much CX I’ll race this year, but I certainly want to hit the start line more than twice, and I want to have a Cross Check under me that’s as well-suited as can be for America’s best 'cross courses here in the Northeast—keeping in mind that, ultimately, it’s the rider, not the bike, that matters. Right guys? Right…? 

The rub—as long as capitalist exploiters appropriate the surplus value of our labor, offering in return only paltry wages used to purchase commodities on the market—is money. Realistically, I have $400-700 to work with. My thinking behind that estimate is that I’d rather have some money left to actually race a Frankenbike than a nicer bike I can’t afford to race. 

So, Kissena forum, what are the biggest upgrades I could make to my 'cross bike, for the least money? Have at it! Sick burns, unrealistic suggestions, and critiques of political economy are most welcome. 

Current specs below. If you’re reading this, and mix-and-matched parts gravely offend you, consider yourself warned (and then I suggest you chill out about that kind of stuff). 

Velocity Dyad 700c wheels (24mm wide x 22mm deep) 
Michelin Jet Cyclocross clinchers, 30mm 
Ritchey Scuzzy Logic Pro headset 
Bontrager stem with some rise  
3T handlebars shaped such that I’m not sure how I ever coped with them (they’re difficult to ride on the hoods) 
Dimension seatpost 
A mostly-Shimano groupset that makes the family from Diff’rent Strokes look like the Duggars:  
—Shimano Tiagra 9-speed integrated brake levers/shifters 
—Tektro Oryx cantilever brakes 
—Shimano bottom bracket 
—Sugino 48/36/24t crankset 
—Shimano Sora front derailleur  
—Shimano 12-32t cassette 
—Shimano 105 rear derailleur  
Shimano SPD pedals 

My thinking so far: Wheels (Neugent alloy tubulars?), bars with shape I like (could easily be purchased used), and a 42t or 44t single-chainring crankset.

HOTNESS.

plenty of people race their cross-checks. 

Tubulars are amazing for cross, the neugent price and wheels will be awesome (I have two CX sets one tubs for racing and one clinchers for training) but the actual tubular tires will be expensive, and gluing them is not trivial.

If you are just getting started, forgo tubulars, spend the money on good clincher tires, 700x33, your budget will go much further. Talk to redbeard, I am sure they can order them (or have them already):
http://clementcycling.com/mxp-clincher

You will need a 40t narrow/wide single ring (you will most definately not be able to push a 44t)
http://www.raceface.com/products/details/cx-narrow-wide-single-ring

And a way to keep the chain in place:
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/chainspy

You might need different ring bolts depending on the crank you end up (ie -- if you are transforming a double or triple crank the current bolts will be too long for one ring)

Thanks for the info, @eloy. I expected a response from you, and you delivered! 

But what kind of pressure can you run on those Clement clinchers without inviting pinch flats? At Elm City last year, I rode a pinch flat for a lap until my Michelin Jet 30mm cyclocross tire nearly rolled off the wheel. I don't remember having much less than 40psi in there. I was so close to the finish line, within the final kilometer!

I thought I might could ride a 42t or even 44t chainring because the cassette is 12-32t. But maybe better to buy a 40t and then have the option later for a different cassette. 

Max,
Get a pair of Continental cross specific tubes if you use a clincher wheelset, sure they're a bit heavy but at 35psi I did not encounter any pinch flat while riding single track.

Max,
      Eloy (and others) are fans of the single-ring setup.  I'm not much of a fan.

      I still like the old-school narrowly-spaced double-ring setup.  I'm currently running 46/38, but have parts to switch it to a 44/36. If you're starting from scratch, you can probably find a cheap crank with 110mm bcd which will work great.  The only limiter is that you'll probably need a new bottom bracket as well.  Not that you can't find a thru-axle crank and bb set for fairly cheap these days.  

     Tire pressure is an art in cx.  You can alway pump your tires up to 50psi and never pinch-flat, though you'll have a hellish time on tough turns.  Lower is generally better.  

Thanks for the tip @Thierry. I didn't know they made such a thing. 

@mugwump What in your opinion are the advantages of the double-ring setup? Is yours narrower than a road double? I was thinking of a single if only for reducing a bit more rotating weight. The Cross-Check BB is threaded and the current axle is a square-taper.

At Elm City, with the "lower is generally better" maxim in mind, I let out some air at the start line after I had reconn'd the course. Given what happened, it's hard not to regret that decision, but yeah, the turns were much easier to handle. There was one line that went downhill off-camber and fairly quickly turned 160 degrees between two trees. What's your take on clinchers vs. tubeless vs. tubulars for 'cross? 

@MaxThorn
Check out cxmagazine.com. All your questions will be answered.

I've learned a lot from that magazine @Thierry, but after years of working in the editorial department of many magazines, I've come to understand the limits of the genre. I came to the forum in hopes balancing what I've learned through secondary source research with more unfiltered, person-to-person exchange of information with fellow Kissenas.

Max - just my personal experiences here..

I'm thinking of going 1x on my CAADX to reduce some weight and for a cleaner look. I've never used the big chainring when I'm racing so I don't feel the need for it but I don't think it will have any noticeable impact whether I go 1x or not.

As for pinch flatting, I'm 170lbs and ride 10 year old Easton wheels, clincher. They're old school narrow width. I usually race Challenge Chicanes at 30psi (sometimes lower when it's wet or muddy) and I've never had an issue flatting. I do use latex tubes though so that maybe the reason. I just can't seem to be bothered by the messy tubeless setup or gluing tires.

In my opinion, tires are the best upgrade you can do right now. 

What Philip said.

When training I am usually around 35psi on clinchers, will get a flat every so often, almost exclusively when riding MTB trails hard.

At races, will run clinchers at 28ish psi.

I don't have a breakdown on how many races I've done on tubulars vs clinchers... crossresults suggests I've done over 80 races. So far, I remember only one race where I flatted, in 2007.

@MaxThorn as an alternative consider Challenge clinchers -- they call them "open tubulars" -- their sidewall is a bit stronger than the Clements, so it is likely to pinch less. Tan sidewalls look pimp, but will last a lot less time.
http://www.challengetech.it/products/cyclocross/grifo-t-e-33-042/en

FWIW, I have always run a double. Occasionally, I will need to remind myself to shift to the big ring which is almost always the right decision. It can feel so nice to spin in the small ring when you are really feeling like crap, but unless you need it to actually get up a specific hill/rise/incline its going to be slower.  Probably doesn't help the decision on whether to go single ring or not.

an additional comment on pressure: you want to figure out what is best for you, your style of riding, tires, and the particular course that day.

As JP said, it is an art.

Might take you a while, but on clinchers or tubulars you will figure it out. 

Max

Some additional CX two cents from somebody who built up a SRCAMPY CX rig and have been migrating to full SRAM setup as I break stuff/find good deals on eBay. 

• I have a CX crank and BB I can give you. It has 44/38 which is ideal for most CX courses you will do. (BB is ISIS so if you talk about it online too much, you may have to deal with FBI trying to get you to buy prepaid phone cards for foreign nationals, as well as poor bb/crank interface).

• I am with Phil, if you're going to run clinchers, invest in a pair of latex CX specific tubes. They're plush and you can ride lower pressure. I love them and only the slow air loss is an issue.
  

• Definitely get bars that work for you, in CX it may be better to run slightly wider bars for the greater leverage (I am sure somebody here will say narrower bars are better because you can ride closer to course obstructions like trees or other riders).

• Also invest in a chain keeper so you don't drop your chain as much.
  

• Maybe invest in multiple clincher tires...mud vs file treads, With a pair of clincher wheels you can swap them out easier than you can with tubulars.