twoyacks said:

David Yang said:

How interesting, those nashbar forks can accommodate disc brakes...

Ain't it grand...if I ever go disc...I'de just need a builder to weld a disc mount to my rear stay...cuz it's steel and you can do that...FYI  the sling now has power
https://www.strava.com/activities/1138283871

If I ever go down that route, I'd probably build a frankenbike with a front disc and a rear canti/mini-v.  How does the carbon fork compare to the old cromoly one?  I can't tell if the "springy" nature of my fakelocross bike is frame, fork, or wheel and tire related.  Or I can just be bad at riding bikes, which is a legit possibility.

The fork is just lighter...and this is noticeable...It's a great upgrade for $87
The trails I ride require lifting the front end over roots and rocks...plus the lighter front helps while riding through sand as the wheel doesn't seem to sink as quickly.
Thin tubed steel bikes are going to be springy...enjoy it...you may feel at a disadvantage for the 1st 30 minutes but after that you'll be less knackered and have a leg up.  I like springy...flexy..supple as it hurts less to ride.  I've been riding my cross bike 6 days a week on some atrocious trails, yet I'm not beat up.  I'm probably slower on my heavy flex machine but man is it fun.

David Yang said:

twoyacks said:

David Yang said:

If I ever go down that route, I'd probably build a frankenbike with a front disc and a rear canti/mini-v.  How does the carbon fork compare to the old cromoly one?  I can't tell if the "springy" nature of my fakelocross bike is frame, fork, or wheel and tire related.  Or I can just be bad at riding bikes, which is a legit possibility.

Considering how little braking power is on the rear wheel, I think the only think keeping a disc front/ rim rear is aesthetics.  

http://www.bicycleretailer.com/product-tech/2017/08/17/poc-moves-mips-its-own-spin-technology-helmets

POC is giving up on Mips.  No way to tell from this article if it's a cost or safety issue. 

Hmmm....if MIPS is licensing agreement that cost money...then developing your own system makes fiscal sense...

Wahoo bolt releases workout mode.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDKMsXcdrI4

http://blog.wahoofitness.com/how-to-use-planned-workouts-on-your-elemnt/

How about some legit old-school shades?
https://www.steel-vintage.com/rudy-project-detail
Steel vintage's site is mint. 

Hawt.  

Tom Hardy was rocking those in Dunkirk this summer...

JohnMalcolmson said:

How about some legit old-school shades?
https://www.steel-vintage.com/rudy-project-detail
Steel vintage's site is mint. 

24 euros (before shipping) for white with orange stripe.  

do we have a kissena tent?

GregStreiff said:

do we have a kissena tent?

We do. Not sure who has it, I think Patrick?

eloy said:

GregStreiff said:

do we have a kissena tent?

We do. Not sure who has it, I think Patrick?

@PatrickG can I use the tent for the kissena velo state championships sept 9-10?

@GregStreiff

I'll bring it to CX clinic at Cunningham tomorrow. You are welcome to take bring it to track champs. Question is how to get it to you. Are you coming to clinic?

@PatrickG I wasn't planning on it, bc I dont have my CX bike yet. do u live in BK? I can drive to get it from you. 

I live on Long Island. When is the track champs?

PatrickG said:

I live on Long Island. When is the track champs?

@PatrickG the weekend of Sept 9-10, but I'm in VT for GMSR for labor day weekend so I should probably try to get it tomorrow.

The "Wahoo Climb" 

Giant has a new aero bike, disc brake only! https://cyclingtips.com/2017/08/giant-propel-disc-advanced-sl-2018-first-ride-review-details-price/

Brendan Rigby said:

Giant has a new aero bike, disc brake only! https://cyclingtips.com/2017/08/giant-propel-disc-advanced-sl-2018-first-ride-review-details-price/

once again, your timing is impeccable.

once again?

The orange color-scheme is very tasty. I wonder if it will be available as a frameset+cockpit, for those that want to run something other than Shimano (or who like building bikes).
My only reservation is the use of a 140mm rotor up front instead of 160mm.

Lots of announcements today... Stages announces their dual side power meter.

https://cyclingtips.com/2017/08/stages-cycling-lr-dual-sided-power-meter-announced/

at least on standard flat mount frames (i see that one has some custom aero bits) the switch from 140 to 160 can be managed easily with sram in the front by swapping the direction of one piece of metal.  (the solid black block of aluminum that sram flat mount front disc brakes are bolted to)

not all 140mm rotors are created equal...the ones pictured are shimano's super duper newest tech rotors and pads.  those rotors feature heat-sucking aluminum (much better at transferring heat than steel, one reason why you can grab aluminum foil right out of the oven).  the aluminum is sandwiched between the steel and it extends to large flat areas designed to transfer heat off into the air.  the pads themselves also have heatsinks.  this is why shimano feels 140mm is safe for all road riders.

contrast to last-gen sram, which recommends 160mm up front.  new sram red HydroHC brakes are redesigned, bigger pistons among other things, and manufacturers are selling those with 140mm front and rear as well.

i have 140mm front and rear on my road bike and it seems to stop plenny well, but i've not done any really severe descents

Considering the price tag on the bike and components and that this was a professionally set up factory review model...this seems pretty lame.  Is this a common issue/gremlin on disc brakes on bikes?

The Dura-Ace hydraulic discs provided another level of control that would be impossible to match with any rim brake and carbon rim. With them, you’ll find yourself braking later into turns and with less effort required to do so. However, the brake pistons don’t always fully retract after using them and you’re left with the whisper of a rubbing disc. It’s not enough to slow the wheel, but is an annoying sound to hear. A quick tap of the brake was typically enough to solve the issue.

It is specially evident on the first muddy race of a cross season, when you can hear everyone's discs while they pedal. My perception is that the issue gets a little better with time. But yeas, considering how sophisticated and expensive it all is, one would expect better.

David Yang said:

Considering the price tag on the bike and components and that this was a professionally set up factory review model...this seems pretty lame.  Is this a common issue/gremlin on disc brakes on bikes?

The Dura-Ace hydraulic discs provided another level of control that would be impossible to match with any rim brake and carbon rim. With them, you’ll find yourself braking later into turns and with less effort required to do so. However, the brake pistons don’t always fully retract after using them and you’re left with the whisper of a rubbing disc. It’s not enough to slow the wheel, but is an annoying sound to hear. A quick tap of the brake was typically enough to solve the issue.

it is sort of part gremlin, part adjustment/maintenance, and part feature (seriously!)

adjustment/maintenance/gremlin:  the clearance between new pads and new rotors is exceedingly small - if you don't install them just so, your pad is ALMOST rubbing from the moment you start using it.  we're talking <1 mm clearance on each side.  it is also very easy to install them so that they in fact rub from the get go, but lightly enough that you don't notice unless you're looking extremely closely with good lighting.  if you get some dirt in there, or if the rotor warps ever so slightly, that will 100% turn into a rub. 

first time you set up a new set of pads and rotors, you slam the pistons full back into the caliper/housing.  when you first apply them, the pistons come out and don't go all the way back in.

the fact that they don't fully retract is actually a feature.  it allows hydraulic disc brake users, but not cable rim brake users, (there's a zinn column on this that i can't find right now) to use one pad set that wears down throughout a race.  the pistons compensate for pad wear; they "auto adjust" precisely because they don't always go all the way back in.  unlike rim brakes, there is no need for a hydraulic disc brake user to reach down and adjust the brakes as the pads wear. 

the issue the article highlights could be a combination of any of the above or also it could be that his brakes need maintenance.  if they are old or truly dirty, sometimes the piston will not move as freely in the housing.  i find this unlikely since his was brand new.  but who knows, this was a new bike launch with journalists flown in from everywhere, so maybe the bike got built up quickly or wasn't adjusted right.  

author may be correct that the pistons don't retract, and that there was a rub, but i doubt he wants disc brakes with pistons that always retract.  they would require more adjustment.

Hm, will have to look for Zinn's disc brake articles.  Maybe it's just FUD, but all this stuff seems to add up to a technology that still needs maturing before they stop being finicky and annoying to setup and use.

Brendan Rigby said:

once again?

Didn't hit happen with the Wahoo computer?