Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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This limited warranty is void if the bicycle is subjected to abuse, neglect, improper repair, improper maintenance, alteration, modification, an accident or other abnormal, excessive, or improper use.
.......not sure if trainer damage is considered abuse or neglect.  that bike has been crashed as well....BUT I suspect you will get a warranty.  Don't get all lathered up thinking a 2018 Supersix EVO is coming your way as Cannondale keeps older production frames in storage for warranty claims.  Good luck
Patrick see if you can warranty. I think Cannondale has lifetime warranty on frame and that failure is a little embarrassing. So we're not allowed to put supersixes in trainers?
Brendan has a good point, that'd be terrible press on their twitter feed. That said, I bet there's an epoxy that'd fix that.,, not sure if this is still his email: Paul Carbonara PNCARBO@aol.com
I’m going to start by pursuing the warranty angle and take it from there. I’ll update you all. 

I knew I’d be subjecting myself to Yack’s disparaging of carbon frames. Not that he hates all things carbon as he rides with carbon hoops and forks without a trace of hypocrisy. Then again, given how he singlehandedly destroys most bike parts I don’t blame him from staying away from carbon frames. I guess I’m a huckleberry, as I would still consider another carbon frame. 
at the prices we can get carbon Giant frames, you'd have to be a huckleberry (is that even a bad thing?  aren't they delicious? are we to interpret this to mean "giant of american literature") to go aluminum!
Marcos I must ask, what is that sweet sweet titanium frame you are riding?
Patrick see if you can warranty. I think Cannondale has lifetime warranty on frame and that failure is a little embarrassing. So we're not allowed to put supersixes in trainers?
Brendan has a good point, that'd be terrible press on their twitter feed. That said, I bet there's an epoxy that'd fix that.,, not sure if this is still his email: Paul Carbonara PNCARBO@aol.com
That's the email I have for him; LMK if that doesn't work I can fb/text him for you.

As for the etymology of Huckleberry - I think Sir Hatescarbonalot Yacks has it wrong


Gen-X my Canuk friend...I grew up on Huckleberry Hound

@twoyacks

NO. 22 - GREAT DIVIDE (2015)
https://22bicycles.com/products/great-divide-ready-made
PSA for anyone running a SRAM RED groupset.

Last week when I was taking the bike out of my trainer the rear derailleur basically came apart in my hand. Thankfully I wasn't moving fast at the time (har har). Seriously though, that would not have been a pleasant experience in the real world.

The culprit turns out to be wear in one of the pivot bolts. After googling around this is not an uncommon problem in the SRAM RED derailleur. I've attached a photo here which hopefully shows the issue ... basically, the retaining flange wears down over time and eventually the jockey wheel assembly comes lose.

The especially troubling part is this happened on a 2015 bike, and I'm hardly clocking up major miles. If you have a RED derailleur then I'd highly recommend opening this up for a quick inspection ... definitely not something you want to discover at speed.



PS props to Ilya and the team at Redbeard for getting me back up and running the next day!






Gah!
Yacks has moved away from Red & Force der's with their fancy carbon/plasticy bodies and just run chunky aluminum Rival der's now.  No issues...and I'm not counting those broken ones from last summer on the cross bike as I'm blaming the 20 year old american classic shoddy rear hub for those
i've also had that exact issue niall points to but i always blamed it on myself because mine blew up when i shifted it by pushing the derailleur cage while pedaling the bike in a stand (rather than shifting it by pulling in cable/using the shift lever). it positively exploded into bits!  2013 or 2014 10 speed sram red rear derailleur

i've since become a major fan of sram rival derailleurs.  they're like $45 with the discount at redbeard!  and the tech wizards at Art's Cyclery think they're the best bang for the buck: http://blog.artscyclery.com/road/sram-road-components-where-to-spend-your-money/

on 1x, the force derailleur is 8 grams lighter than rival

oh and when i weighed my sram force hydro caliper vs. identical sram rival caliper, the force was actually heavier!
Interesting. I had my 2013 Red rear derailleur implode for no apparent reason last year. It was a low speed issue in which I thought the derailleur mysteriously shifted into my spokes. Given I wasn’t shifting at the time I now wonder if it is the same as Niall’s issue. 
Cannondale EVO update: 

My frame dropout issue is most likely covered under warranty. Mattie at Piermont Bike is looking into it.

If that doesn’t work, Paul Carbonara thinks it’s an easy fix and even gave me instructions to do it myself. 
Oh SRAM...Shimano would like a word with you behind the woodshed

http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/shimano-di2-wireless-hydraulic-shifter-patented/
this is interesting, a website that just does 3d printing for whatever you want....they have some bike parts: https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/tech/mechanical-parts/?q=&sort=&facet[pdcId][]=303&facet[price][min]=1&facet[price][max]=2500&facet[price][from]=1&facet[price][to]=2500
disc brake debate, go! http://www.velonews.com/2018/03/news/trek-segafredo-plans-to-put-all-its-roubaix-riders-on-discs_461383

Listen to the hardmen: "In a race like [Paris-Roubaix], you shouldn’t be braking anyway,” said one of Quick-Step’s four leaders Zdenek Stybar.

http://www.velonews.com/2018/04/news/roubaix-favorites-steer-clear-of-disc-brakes_462570#hisdipLIVS5JKAdA.99

The rim vs disc argument has been resoundingly and definitively ENDED !!!

Thinking about a tubeless CX setup. What's the latest on this?
@Brendan Rigby
Jules said:
Thinking about a tubeless CX setup. What's the latest on this?
@Brendan Rigby
Non drying latex sealant by Finish Line!!!
@Jules. I went tubeless over past two years in cross and think it’s great. I still like (and race on) tubulars because they are more supple, but being able to run tubeless way low pressure without the risk of pinch flat for training and racing is pretty awesome. The tires and times make a difference, but most current tubeless setups seem to work well. 

Having siad that, my WTB cross boss tires literally sweat sealant through the sidewalls. Has happened on several tires. Strange 
Yacks went tubeless on the Slingshot...it has been beyond my wildest dreams.  I have been on them for about 3 months and zero flats.  I had been getting flats on almost every ride I went on...thorns & pinch flats galore
I'm running Schwalbe X-One All Arounds 33mm on DT Swiss R460 rims
I have had one burp in 3 months and the tire only lost about 10 psi.
I have ridden these wheels unmercifully 
https://www.bikerumor.com/2017/06/08/review-schwalbe-x-one-allround-cyclocross-tires/
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/rims/road/performance/r-460/


What's the word on rims? Convert any old rim or...?
the wider...the better...you want something with a deep channel I'm told to prevent the burpies
All rims have different specs...I would look online for good tubeless cross rim choices.  I hear good things about the Stan's rims for cross
The DT Swiss R460 are the value leaders...Yacks likes.  There are different options for disc specific rims though
in the middle of moving but of course can't pass up the opportunity to discuss tubeless!

i did buy a gallon of the new finish line sealant, will report back in a couple months on how it works vs. stans.  went for the gallon because fat bike wheels take a lot of sealant.  if it truly does not dry out it will be a much better product so long as it seals well.  topping off sealant is a pain in the butt and probably the most inconvenient part of tubeless (because you sometimes don't know it needs to be topped off until you get a flat because there was no sealant!)

Don't convert any old rim, use a purpose-built rim. The seal will be better if you use parts designed for this purpose.  Less burping, more security!

If it's for CX make sure your internal width is wide as possible, up to about 23.5mm or so.  I have been running Industry Nine AR25 wheels and generally ran them at 18-22 PSI with 33mm tires and had no burp ever all CX season.  They are 21.5mm internal.  They make a CX specific rim with 23.5 internal width.

Older non-purpose built rims will be narrower, have profile that does not hold the tire in place as well, and ultimately not work as well.  You will spend less money but spend more time in a state of frustration.  It might work but in the event that it doesn't...

https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/08/12/tech-story-match-bicycle-tire-width-rim-width-best-results/

Are these disc brake or rim brake? 

Carbon disc brake wheels are getting better and cheaper because the resin and layup in the rim doesn't have to accommodate for heat buildup on the braking surface.  Designed resins can now emphasize compliance to better eat up bumps and not break on impact.  If I was buying a CX disc brake wheelset tomorrow I'd consider the following:
  • no budget: Enve M525 g. https://enve.com/products/m525-g/ huge internal width, hookless bead is stronger, rim strip for good seal and crash damage avoidance.  only downside is for a zillion percent price increase it's not clear you're getting a zillion percent better performance...
  • higher price point $1200: https://industrynine.com/road/trcx-disc - good internal width, i9 has a good crash rebuild policy where if your rim goes bye bye from hitting a log you just get it rebuilt for not much $ at all, better engagement than some hubs for better off-road climbing
  • middle point $800: https://www.notubes.com/grail-team-wheelset-2017 heavier, different approach to rim profile. i've not ridden them but have heard good things
  • build your own $400 or less: bikehubstore hubs, Kinlin TL-23 rims. the DT Swiss aftermarket rims are in my humble opinion a bit narrow internally for CX use, a bit behind the times. their fully-built sets are where they innovate, it seems
also any 29er wheel works but don't go too wide with the internal width, see above article


Thanks Brendan. That's helpful. I'm going rim brakes because my FTB is old skool; I just want a wheel I can train on and race gravel with low maintenance and high reliability.

Yacks favorite wheel guy is flogging Altamonts but I feel like by 2018 there must be some purpose built tubeless rims that are better.
people say good things about boyd rims and ergott out on LI is a well known wheelbuilder who does good work--whatever he does is good i'm sure!  they are designed for tubeless.  but for my money i'd get something wider for cx, it looks like the internal width is only 19.86mm.  but i'm sure it would be fine!  altamonts come in rim brake too for your FTB
I'm sill waiting for the Altamount Lite Ceramic rims to get delivered to Ergott...
In other news My Time Expresso pedals have failed again...almost a year to the day I received them via warranty.  I came out of the right pedal 5 times today...the retention clip or whatever the French word is for it has worn down again...Thierry quick how do I say "Shitty pedals" in French?