I'm not paying for the Arundel, Santa will deliver them. The Mandible cages are not the lightest, but my bike isn't that light anyway (15.09 lbs with DA pedals:=)

If cost is concern, a very good low weight/cost carbon products are offered by Forte and/or Serfas,

Yon

I've been running a 23/25 combo on 90 PSI (appx 6.2 bars) for 2yrs with no flats


http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/cervelo-testteam-get-testing-in-belgium

Lots of those Elite cages floating around; they seem to be pretty popular.

Since this has turned into a general bottle cage thread, I'll note that the pair of Tacx Tao cages on my road bike didn't even make it through a single season. They're light, < $20 and hold bottles just fine but the tab underneath the seat tube bottle sheared off. I can only attribute this to Tacx bottles being a hair larger in diameter than "standard" bottles so the extra jostling of the bottle fatigued the bottom tab over time.

Dunno, but beware. Maybe i'd fair better with Tacx bottles but the idea of proprietary water bottles seems wack to me. :shrug:

Rich, The Tacx Tao cage has been breaking at the tab since the day after they were made. It happens regardless of what bottle you use in the cage. The tab is weak; design flaw.

I'll add that the Trek Bat Cage is cheap and strong, though not the lightest cage out there.

I have tried all the Arundels. The Mandible and Trident seem to hold the best. That written, they're not perfect. I think I've lost four bottles since I started using Arundel cages in 2007,but those instances were all riding over huge potholes while following other riders during races. I was surprised I didn't break my rim the hits were so hard.

JP

At JP's suggestion, I got Trek Bat Cages last summer (because the tab broke off my expensive carbon cages). Bat Cages are cheap and strong and bottles definitely do not shake around. If I have any complaint it is that I have to tug pretty hard to get them out. The local Trek dealer had to special order them, as they had more expensive less durable ones on display. But it was only a couple of days until arrival. Are you guys seriously considering 10 g weight savings? That's about the weight of a standard letter envelope! I'd rather be hydrated (see Battenkill thread).

* 48gram composite cage securely holds a bottle
* Durable composite material will not scratch bottles
* The Bat Cage has been ridden to victory in all 3 grand tours
David

Good to know about the Tao's. This was a blind date and there won't be a second. At sub 20 bucks it's not a _huge_ deal to replace them, but i'd rather not have to worry about it. Personally I could give a rat's arse about 10g in weight savings. I'll drink two fewer beers some week (or just go without bar tape ;P ) And hey the BAT actually weighs less than the Alu-rubber Tao.

Posted By: dstokes
* The Bat Cage has been ridden to victory in all 3 grand tours

that's weird. most of the grand tours i watch, the winners are riding bikes.

I thought the pro riders rode some special equipment before it was marketed (like the electric derailleur) or even prototypes (TT bikes especially). The UCI Technical Regulations for Bicycles seems to say otherwise:

"The bicycle must be accessible to all participants. It must be marketed (i.e. available for sale on the market) or marketable (i.e. available for sale directly from the manufacturer, by subscription or through an alternative distribution network). Prototypes and the use of equipment specially designed for a particular athlete,
event or performance is prohibited. “Special design” means a bicycle with a technical added value when compared with other equipment."

http://www.uci.ch/Modules/BUILTIN/getObject.asp?MenuId=&ObjTypeCode=FILE&type=FILE&id=NTI0MDY&LangId=1

Stephane, This has been the case for several years.

So everything they use is available to potential buyers?

I think the expression "marketable (Available for sale directly from the manufacturer ...." is what allows teams to run prototypes.

The GB track team were asked to give a response to this rule, since most of their kit would be considered custom or prototype or special. Dave Brailsford and Chris Boardman answered that they would sell a frame to anyone for GBP35,000.

If Kissena went to Campagnolo with enough $$$$$$$ we could probably be riding their electric system in 2011. (I should have put that in my survey response !)

Mattio will be here all week, Ladies and Gentlemen!

In 1974 Lancia raced in the World Rally Championship with the Stratos, which had been designed for racing only. Since 400 units had to be produced for the homologation of the car (as a car derived from normal production!), they had produced 400 of this racing car.

Arundel Dave-O actually sheared off when the retention bolts peeled through the cage. I put some small washers on and it seems to be fine. Had the cheap Forte cages and while one tab broke, the other is 4 years going strong.

here's a question:

when are they going to lower the minimum weight limit from 15lbs?

it seems that for many years now, pro team mechanics have had to "heavy-up" the bikes to meet this minimum!

William,

I think it will drop, but only by a little. Might be in a year.

That written, I think there are some lightweight leaders who have had to add weight, but hardly everyone. Big brands Cannondale, Trek, Specialized, and boutique brand Cervelo, have been pushing the lightweight envelope for some time. I don't think all frames, when built up with the lightest morsels are under the limit.

And if guys riding cervelo and trek, providing they're taller than Sastre, would just ride with a power meter, they'd be a shade over the minimum thus eliminating the need to heavy up.

JP

We just got the bbb flex cages in, 22$ or so. 22 grams supposedly, similar to the specialized cages, but a little piece of rubber to adjust tension.

When I was at specialized, I was given the impression that the rule about it being available to the public was new, and that was why they were rushing to put the Shiv on the market in 2010. Though, the lady teaching the course was probably not an expert on UCI rules.

Also, did anyone notice the boys on the Trek Development squad won our national championships on "outdated" bikes? A 5 series Madone for Ben King and the Solstice for Phinney.

The rule was definitely in place in 2005.

JP

William,

The best chain is...a new one. Second best is one that is taken care of with regular cleaning and lubing.

There's a chance that the higher-zoot chains from the various manufacturers work a bit better, but I've noticed little difference over the years between the DA level chain and the 105-level chain, the highest-end SRAM chain and the lowest, the stainless Wippermann chain and the cheapest.

I'm not a fan of Shimano chains. I don't like their link pins; one time use for the link pins makes breaking one on the road pretty awful. I've ridden many,and the cheaper chains seem to shift as well as the DA, though I've never used their directional chain, with a different inside and outside link design.

SRAM chains seem to work fine. the pricier ones definitely look better. Their master-link is decent.

I've been partial to Wippermann of late. The stainless chain was very pretty and seemed to last a long time. But considering the cost, their cheapest 10-speed chain seems to work as well. What I really like about Wippermann are their master links; it takes seconds to remove a chain and reinstall it.

Never tried Campy. Too expensive, seem to need a specialized tool, and a few too many reports of problems.

My feeling is go with price. Also buy a chain length gauge (I have the Park CC-3, a go/no go checker--if it fits, its time to replace) to make sure you don't use the chain so long that you're wearing out your cogs and chainrings. And every time you rinse your bike, rinse your chain. Every time you wash your bike, first degrease, second soap, third rinse with water. The degreasing doesn't have to take long, just spray a degreaser on the chain before you start the wash. When its dry, relube. Every so often, you might want to take the chain off, agitate in degreaser, soap, rinse, and dry. And, with a new chain, my recommendation is to, when you take it out of the box, spray degreaser on a rag, then wipe the chain with the degreaser. This will take the sticky grease off the exterior so as to minimize dirt pickup, but will leave the grease on the interior.

JP

right on

thanks JP

i never gave much thought to chains, aside from what sort of connector they use

my multi-tool has a little place on the back to hold two shimano chain pins, which is convenient, though i've never broken a chain during a ride and had to use them

i will follow your advice/my wallet and go for the cheapest

-wm

I second the vote for the cheaper end of the sram chains. They work great and don't cost too much to replace frequently.

I'm interested in feedback on Ultegra 6600, either the standard finish or the SL version with the smoke grey finish. In particular I'm interested in how well it lasts - mechanically and cosmetically.

The reason I ask is that I have been racing a bike with the new 6700 generation on it - and after 6 months the rear derailleur looks pretty well used. Mechanically it's fine but cosmetically some of the anodizing has chipped off, etc. Previously I was a campy guy and the centaur stuff I used daily looked as good after 4 years as it did the day I got it.

Now ... I am putting together a different bike and I was intending to use the new 105 on it (which is very reasonably priced especially at Ribble cycles in the UK), but my experience with Ultegra 6700 has made me worried about the build quality of the new 105 so I am considering Ultegra 6600, which I can get for the same price as the new 105 - hence the question.

i love my ultegra 6600 brifters, but their cosmetic durability really isn't a concern - i bought them used, they were covered in scratches, and they have only gotten worse since they've been in my possession. i think the most important factor in cosmetic durability is color - black components maintain their looks the best, followed by polished silver. anodized parts tend to show their wear more.

that said - i think shimano makes great stuff; it lasts a really long time (i'm still using almost all of my 9-speed dura ace group from 2003) and is easy to work on

personally, i love the hood shape of the old-ten speed. i think it is the most versatile of the Big 3 component brand's hoods.

KMC Chains - cheapest out there and they just work.

yeah

many on the internet seem to be big fans of KMC - great performance at half the price

that's the route i'm going

Jeff Owens has alerted me to the existence of this limited edition KMC chain:

http://www.probikekit.com/_img_500x640/A1187.jpg

Looks great on Pozzato's spare bike!

Posted By: eragotKMC Chains - cheapest out there and they just work.

Eric - which KMC chain do you use? I've been looking at reviews, many are positive but there are also many horror stories of KMC chains breaking left and right. I'm guessing maybe it has to do with the model. Let us know.

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-DX10SC-Bicycle-10-Speed-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M