Posted By: twoyacksThe off-center rear rim is all marketing. It is the rim equivalent of ceramic hub bearings. I've had both ocr velocity rear rims and standard velocity rims...nooo difference.

i'll have to disagree with that. any time you can reduce the effective dish and bring DS and NDS tension closer together, it will always build a stronger wheel.

regarding handlebars,

I think if you're current bars are what you used in 1998, just about anything will be stiffer. Stems are thicker, steerer tubes are wider, clamp areas are wider, even the aluminum used is better.

Has anyone any experience with Holland cycles ?

Hey Club,

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience running a tubeless setup on the road. I'm lucky enough to have (thanks to a wonderful teammate) a set of Ultegra Tubeless Ready Wheels. I understand the merits of using them in cyclocross but I'm a little skeptical about the merits of running them on the road. If i do set these up, they will be primarily for racing. anyone care to chime in?

this is what i've gathered from reading the blogs, forums, etc.

Pros:

can run lower pressure (is that really important?)
better "feel" corner better etc.
fewer flats

cons:

few options for tires (Hutchinson are the main ones)
weight not very light after you consider heavier tire + sealant
Hutchinson tires have a not so great reputation

I have been riding on a pair of Dura Ace wheels tubelss with Hutchinson Fusion tires for 1-1/2+ years half now. I really really like them and have no problems with them. I like 'em so much I went and bought a pair of Ultegra Tubeless wheels for the cross bike which I have been using on the road this winter with Hutchinson's heavier duty tubeless Intensive (25) road tires (which has some tread on it as well). (The Intensive is definitely not a racing tire but is great for winter use. It might also work well at Battenkill.)

The big plus of tubelss tires is that they simply feel really good. They corner beautifully, give great road feel, and yet are still forgiving. (They also make a nice sound when you ride them which I can best describe as a subtle hollow resonance.) I run them about 5-10psi lower than I run tubed tires--depending on conditions. I'd been using the MIchelin Pro Race series for years as clinchers as well as Continental Gran Prixs sporadically and I don't find the Hutchinsions to be any less capable in any respect, plus they have the advantage of the great road feel and virtual pinch flat-proof-ness. In addition to the Fusoins and the heavier Intensives I mentioned, Hutchinson is now making a lighter racing tire called the Atom which I have yet to try. I think Stan's will be coming out with a lighter tubeless road tire in the near future if they haven't done so already.

On the negative side, they are a bit annoying to mount initially (though far easier than tubulars). While technically you don't have to do so, I found myself taking them to a shop to use the compressed air there. Mounting with an air gun just makes it go more smoothly. (I have yet to experience a flat -- though having written that I will no doubt double flat tomorrow. I am concerned that it may be a bit messy dealing with a flat on the road where presumably you just stick a tube in to finish the ride. However, if the experience is anything like doing that with a tubeless tire on a mountain bike then it cold become somewhat messy with sealant all over your hands, which is just an additional annoyance when you're trying to get going on the road. You're right that the set up is a bit heavier than a comparable clincher set up but for me anyway the positive feel seems to outweigh (no pun intended) the downside of the small additional weight. I've heard claims that the rolling resistance of a tubless set is lower than that of a clincher and while I cant speak to that they do "feel" faster and lighter than their weight.

I believe Joaquin also has one or two Shimano wheelsets that he's been running tubeless for a while and last time we spoke about it he seemed equally happy with the set up. For whatever it's worth, I also had a conversation with Mike Sherry about the Dura Ace tubeless set up and he said that he'd been running them all last year on the bike for the AXIS/Empire team which he directs. He said that they were simply flatting less than any of the teams they were competing against and for that virtue alone they were worth it. This year AXIS has Stan's as a sponsor so they'll be trying Stan's new road tubeless set up out.

Anyway, I like 'em. Probably worth setting 'em up tubeless and trying them out. I'll probably buy the tires from you if you decide you don't like them : )

Joaquin doesn't come on this forum too often. But he is a big fan of tubeless.

Neil, I found if I used a CO2 cartridge I could blow the tire onto the rim and didn't need to go to a shop, but, yes, I had a similar issue using a floor pump and frame pump when first installing the tire. so long as one bead is on, it seemed as if I could use a pump to do the rest.

Here's a review I did last year.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=PRODUCT_REVIEW&ARTICLE_ID=3188&QUERY=tubeless&RETURN=review%20search%20for%20%27tubeless%27&RETURNLINK=%2Fza%2FCCY%3FPAGE%3DPRODUCT_REVIEWS%26QUERY%3Dtubeless%26RETURN%3Dmain%20reviews%20page&PRODUCT_REVIEW_PAGE=&SEARCH_NAME=&QUERY_BRAND=

Yes.

You can always go tubed.

I guess this is a good thread for mechanical questions? Anyway, repacking the old aluminum Cannondale's bottom bracket and discovered my Phil Wood grease is......funky. I'm also going to be building up the non-Shaq head tube Cervelo next week, and was wondering if the same grease should be used for everything on that as well (headset, etc). I haven't done much carbon tinkering (just got a torque wrench), but the BB inner shell is aluminum anyway, so it should be fine, no? Also, any recommendations of better stuff, or just get some new Phil Wood?

Thanks!

Jeff,

What constitutes "funky"? is it separating, or smells like old fry-o-lator grease?

Phil is pretty thick. If it's for a place that you won't take as much of a beating from the weather, I'm liking Rock 'n Roll's Super Web Grease; I'm using it on bearing interfaces these days and using Phil on threads and clamping areas.

Separating. It's like 15 years old.

I guess the headtube is just mainly as a sealant to prevent water/debris from getting inside. I have some synth pedros I use for the speedplays and things, but doesn't seem as substantial for the BB and headtube. Maybe that's a good thing? The BB same thing. The new cane creek headset that comes with the cervelo doesn't even have a bearing at the top. Just a bushing. Which makes it stupid light but also very fickle. I put in a thin washer b/c it was either binding or loose. Couldn't find the sweet spot. But of course, now it's not completely flush with the top and some water and gunk might get in. It's a fraction of a mm, but it is eating the brunt of particles and water at the front.

I'm starting to look around for a cheap 54 cm cross bike for later this year.

Would there be anything wrong with this Cannondale with 105s?
http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/bik/2257721505.html

Jeff,
I believe you can get a replacement bearing for that bushing. Not as light, but works much better. I think any grease will be fine in the places you're mentioning.

Jeffrey,
Seems like an ok deal. What makes it nice is you just need pedals and you've got a complete cross bike.

Posted By: Jeffrey WhiteI'm starting to look around for a cheap 54 cm cross bike for later this year.

Would there be anything wrong with this Cannondale with 105s?
http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/bik/2257721505.html

nothing wrong with 105 for cross....

seems like you might be able to get a better price if you're looking to save a bit more money, i feel like I have seen better deals around. the caadX with 105 retails for $1389, minus 20% discount... gets close. not that you need a new bike just trying to put the cost into perspective.

Mike

Thanks, JP. Yeah, I just don't see any way this thing is going to be very durable. But I guess then you get to buy a new one! Good for the economy, right?

Ah, old and lost tools. What is the little spanner thing called that has goes into the little multi-holed cover on the outside of the left crank arm? I lost mine. Should be able to get at nycvelo or sid's right? Hopefully under $20?

Pin Spanner (or Pin Wrench)

Mike mentioned a 20% discount on a CAADX. How/where do I get that? Also, what's our deal with Van Dessel?

Posted By: Jeffrey WhiteMike mentioned a 20% discount on a CAADX. How/where do I get that? Also, what's our deal with Van Dessel?

check out the Sponsorship thread to get details on the Van Dessel sponsorship.

We have a deal with brickwell, this is where it stood as of last year:


>> Hello everyone,
>> Out newest sponsor is Brickwell Multisport. They are located at 3
>> Northern Blvd., Great Neck, NY 11021. Their phone number is
>> 516-482-1193. Also visit them at brickwell.com
>>
>> Brickwell is a great shop with a great staff and great mechanics.
>> When
>> you go, ask for Andrew or Alex.
>>
>> The discount is 15% off of retail prices for everyone. Cat 3's and
>> higher receiver better discounts as the category increases.
>>
>> Andrew also worked out a deal with Cannondale for us - 20% any of
>> their
>> frames or bicycles.
>>
>> We will have some group orders with better discounts later in the
>> year.
>> I will announce them after the mechanics are worked out.
>>
>> If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Eric
>>

speedplay pedals:

is there a new system and an old system for the road model?

will a road speedplay from 5 years ago fit a current road cleat?

WDC,
First, I think there are three current speedplay road models, the X series, the Zero series, and the Light Action series.

All use the same three bolt to four bolt adapter plate. The shims might have changed a bit over the years, but that's about it. Refer to their site for shoe compatability.

As for the cleat, there are three cleats. The X and Zero cleats haven't changed, the Light Action, I believe, has, but the LA pedal has changed as well.

So long as you match the pedal to the cleat for the first two, you should be fine.

I'd also check wear on the pedals. A new cleat should solve most problems, but a seriously worn pedal probably needs the body replaced.

There are two main contemporaneously existing Speedplay cleat/pedal sytems.

The Speedplay X was the earlier on the market of the two and it allows for a tremedous amount (20+ degrees) of "free float" (i.e., without the resistance of any spring mechanism trying to center your foot as you find in some other systems). I like these because they work well with my funky old knees by allowing my foot to move into comfortable angles throughout the pedal stroke. They take a little getting used to at first, since, as one early reviewer put it, it can feel like you're "standing on ice cubes" when you get up to sprint for the first time. That feeling disappears very quickly with use.

The Speedplay Zeros on the other hand have from 0 (meaning fixed) to 15 degrees of adjustable free float. I have not used these but they are held in high regard. Of the two main Speedplay pedals, I see this version in use by the "pros" more often. I think JP may use these? Perhaps he can opine.

There are three cost/fanciiness levels of pedals within each of these main styles. So, in order of ascending price/descending weight, there's the X-5 (Chrome-Moly spindle), X-2 (Stainless Steel spindle), and X-1 (Titanium spindle). There are analagous material choice/price points in the Zero models as well.

To answer your second question then, I'm 99.9% sure that:
(1) Any Speedplay X-type pedal is compatible with a Speedplay X-Type cleat regardless of vintage, and
(2) Any Speedplay Zero-type pedal will work with a Speedplay Zero-type cleat.

To confuse matters a bit...there is now a Speedplay Light Action pedal and cleat combination. This is closer to the Zero version, offering 15 degrees of float, but with super easy engagement/disengagement. Speedplay says it was designed for a first time clipless pedal user or "recreational" cyclists, so I don't think it would suit you at all, because I've ridden with you and you're far from recreational (except when you're on your recumbent).

Enough said.

How is it that JP answered your question in 1/2 the space and time that it took me to do so and more clearly than I did? : )

there is a place in heaven for both of you!

the bearings in my 18 year old Speedplays finally crapped out. So I bought a brand new pair of Speedplay X pedals, and didn't have to change the cleats at all (btw, the cleats are only one season old, I am not still riding 18 year old cleats).

Begin old man rant> Back when I bought my first speedplay pedals in 1993 there was only one type of speedplay pedal with a stainless steel spindle and plain gray composite pedal body. Now all this new fangled colors and different spindle materials as well as 3 different types of cleats get confusing. I like the old ways and I don't want change to interfere with the way interact with the world. >End old man rant

One point to note is they say riders 185lbs+ shouldn't use the Ti version. >:(
Cancellara and Evans use the Zero's.
I'm looking to purchase, any recco's where to buy?

I'm not partial to the ti' version, period. While it is less rotating weight,by about 20g per pedal, it isn't a big reduction for a big extra chunk of change.

I prefer the zeros over the Xs. Not only is the ability to customize the float a big plus, but the cleats last much longer. I think the zero cleat feels more secure. I thought I liked all that float until I was able to dial it back. I started by making sure my heels didn't hit my stays or cranks, that's how I set the inside, and then I set the outside by slowly limiting the float until I found a narrow range.

I really think the speedplay design is great. light, low stack height, great cornering clearance. And then there are the mechanical aspects; Easy to service, easy to rebuild, you can get custom spindles, special adapters to move the cleats further back, and much more. but what really made it a great option is how stiff cycling shoes have gotten. The founder of speedplay probably disagrees with me on this, but when they first came out, the small pedal (he says when you take into account the cleat, the pedal surface is among the largest on the market; he has a point) did seem to create hot spots in people's feet.

Dan, I don't know your mileage on your cleats, but you probably should be replacing them at least every year. I think I do about 4-5,000 miles between cleat changes.

I need some advice on SwissStop brake pads. It's for my DA brakes on my training/replacement racing bike with aluminum rim wheels. The green ones are said to be made with an all weather compound. Is there another type you would recommend?

Stephane,

I've used both the black and green compounds on aluminum rims. If nothing else, the green pads seem to last longer. The braking seemed about the same overall.

Here's a review:

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=PRODUCT_REVIEW&ARTICLE_ID=71&QUERY=swiss%20stop&RETURN=review%20search%20for%20%27swiss%20stop%27&RETURNLINK=%2Fza%2FCCY%3FPAGE%3DPRODUCT_REVIEWS%26QUERY%3Dswiss%20stop%26RETURN%3Dmain%20reviews%20page&PRODUCT_REVIEW_PAGE=&SEARCH_NAME=&QUERY_BRAND=