how to beat helmet hair:

http://www.ecouterre.com/inflatable-airbag-collar-protects-helmet-free-cyclists-from-broken-skulls/

^wave of the future!

If I have a 105 front derailleur and 105 front shifter, both from 2009, can I replace the shifter with a 2011 Ultegra shift\brake assembly?
Does anyone know how to tell what series it is from ?

I crashed in 2009 and had to replace my right shift/brake lever. I am now running an Ultegra right shifter with a 105 rear derailleur, so I know the groups can be combined.
I am curious about combining the different model years / series now though.

Fast forward to now, and the left side 105 shift \ brake lever stopped working when I was on my way up to Nyack, and I got stuck in my big ring.

Toga Nyack told me they could not fix it, and it looked like something internally broke, probably due to the really cold temps.

The front derailleur still moved from big to small ring and back again if adjusted with a screw driver.

The 105 replacement lever was $210 and Ultegra was $280, so it seems silly not to move up to Ultegra. They didn't have either in stock so I rode home in the small ring only. They wanted to special order a lever that was specific to my bike's year, hence me posting this question.

Any ideas of how to proceed \ shops that may have this in stock so I can get back in action quickly ? Otherwise, I guess I am riding my cross bike for the next few weeks.

thanks.

Generally Shimano stuff is not for repair. Shimano don't provide spare parts to retail, so if a shifter breaks then it needs to be replaced (in stark contrast to Campagnolo, but moving swiftly on before a heated debate starts).

5600 was the model series for 105 in 2009 and 6600 for Ultegra. Both 10 speed systems, so that should be what you have, unless you got a deal in 2009 from a store on the previous year's model, which I think was 5500 and 9 speed.

So assuming you do have 10S 105 and Ultegra then the new series is backward compatible. New series 105 is 5700. The shifters have alloy levers (available in silver or black) and Ultegra is 6700 (carbon levers). The brake AND shift cables are routed under the bar tape with this series.

Shimano say that the shifting is B spec compatible and that the brakes are not really compatible as they use different pull ratios.
However there are plenty of forums full of people who run the new series levers (because they like the concealed cables) with the previous series brakes and derailleurs, without any decrease in shifting or braking. The general consensus is that this is Shimano spin to get people to buy almost a whole new groupset.

I don't know about local stores - but try Brickwell as they are a sponsor. Having said that I just bought the new 105 series from Ribble cycles in the UK ($175 for a pair of shifters, $38 for the rear derailleur, etc). I got my order in 4 days.

Ian & Josh,

Since it is a left hand/front shifter wouldn't just about any generation of Shimano shifter work? There isn't much of a difference in cable pull between a 9sp and a new 10sp shifter. Heck you could blend just about any front shifter and derailleur combo. For example, on my CX bike I am running a 9sp Campy derailleur and a Sram 10sp shifter without issue.

Aesthetically I think brifters of the same group/generation would look better, but that doesn't mean you've got to buy a whole new set of brifters to get the same function.

Got a question for you guys about American classic rims/ hubs.

I was thinking of getting a powertap with our discount and lacing it to a American Classic 430 Aero 3 rim. My first problem was getting a standalone rim. It turns out Am Cl. don't distribute stand alone rims to any one, so I'd have to buy a full rear wheel and get it relaced.
A rep from Am. cl. also told me that it would be impossible to lace a 420 rim to a powertap hub as the rim has grouped spoke holes (3) and cycleops hubs have evenly drilled spoke holes.

Looking at a picture of a 420 hub it looks to me as if the holes are evenly drilled too..

Sorry if this made no sense, i guess my basic question is: Can you take a 420 rim and lace it (in a 3 grouped spoke pattern) to a powertap hub. Thanks

Wojciech,

The answer is no. The spoke holes on the non-drive side are drilled differently than on the drive. It looks like a campy-style two-to-one ratio, with 21 spokes in total. 14 drive, 7 non-drive. Even if you could get a 20-hole drilling of the PT hub, you'd be out of luck.

My guess is that Cycle-Ops might, just might either sell a PT hub undrilled or drilled to AC's specs and then they build it up.

The Kinlin that Mike Perlberg referenced has gotten praise from a bunch of people. I think Greg Donovan has been riding his for over a year; he might be able to tell you more.

Thank Jp, it looks like I'm a year or two late as cycleops and American classic use to build up the 420 rim, although in a 4- spoke group pattern I believe. I contacted them to see if I could somehow get an undrilled hub (my understanding is that they provide them undrilled to major wheel manufacturers)

Will let you know how it goes

Anyone have any opinions on a really strong carbon fork, i.e. No Weight Limit, not flexy, etc.?

I'm rebuilding my dad's carbon fiber colnago (c-40), and i'd like to get him something that can handle his 240+ lbs of chiseled curves without flexing when he torques the bars.

thanks,

-william

I'd look into the Wound Up Carbon fork.

http://www.woundupcomposites.com/road_fork.html

It also might be worth reaching out to Lennard Zinn. As he build bikes for huge riders, he might have some ideas on what forks can handle the load.

http://zinncycles.com

Also find an overbuilt stem and overbuilt bars.

I nominate that we make these seat clamps as required spec for Kissena rider's bikes:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/swarm/nectar-and-elixir-bike-seat-clamp-bottle-openers

Posted By: mugwumpI'd look into the Wound Up Carbon fork.

http://www.woundupcomposites.com/road_fork.html

It also might be worth reaching out to Lennard Zinn. As he build bikes for huge riders, he might have some ideas on what forks can handle the load.

http://zinncycles.com

Also find an overbuilt stem and overbuilt bars.

thanks for this

objective, empirical info is hard to come by on this subject

that said, i've found that:

Wound Up's have a good reputation for stiffness/toughness

Zinn uses (used) Alpha Q forks (now discontinued) in part because of their stiffness, but mostly because of their long, sometimes-reinforced steerer tubes

Serotta Composites makes forks tuned to different weights/strengths. however, they are $$$

Reynolds no longer makes forks - shame, cause my old Ouzo Pro was awesome

if papa likes the look, i'm going with Wound Up

Posted By: normanzoI nominate that we make these seat clamps as required spec for Kissena rider's bikes:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/swarm/nectar-and-elixir-bike-seat-clamp-bottle-openers

no way! if you have to hold the bottle horizontal to get it in the opener, you're looking at spilling a bunch of ale down your seattube.

and not in a good way!

Reynolds doesn't make forks?! that is a shame. I've been on my Ouzo Pro for about 8 years now....sad

<blockquote><cite>Posted By: mattio</cite><blockquote><cite>Posted By: normanzo</cite>I nominate that we make these seat clamps as required spec for Kissena rider's bikes:

<a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/swarm/nectar-and-elixir-bike-seat-clamp-bottle-openers" rel="nofollow" class="auto-embedded">http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/swarm/nectar-and-elixir-bike-seat-clamp-bottle-openers</a></blockquote>

no way! if you have to hold the bottle horizontal to get it in the opener, you're looking at spilling a bunch of ale down your seattube.

and not in a good way!</blockquote>

OK Mattio, I agree. Of course, I do think this design quirk could be neutralized by superior bottle handling technique, we should endeavor to have functionally elegant equipment. Therefore, I withdraw the nomination.

oh man, I was all psyched to see a legion of Kissena cross bikes with orange seat clamp bottle opener combos!

We could install these, look all cool and what not, and then secretly open our beer on our spd pedals when no one is looking.....

One can dream.

i second this plan of attack

There has to be a way to open beer bottles using something like an egg beater pedal. Which may or may not be a concern for people depending on where their egg beater pedals have been.

Who has the Fit Sticks?

JP?

Ragot?

Holla!

Ragot has one. I think JP the other.
Funny, I've set up second bikes and never used the thing to replicate the position. Maybe I should learn how...
Eric

reposting for Norm Swygert:

Posted By: normanzoI'm looking to invest in a new wheelset for my soon-to-arrive Spooky road frame, something that's good for racing hilly courses (i.e., pretty light), durable, and reasonable to maintain.

Hed's C2 rims seem to be really nice on-paper and they get good reviews. In Hed's own Ardennes format, they come in lots of combinations (including the new tubular option), but I'm not sure about the Hed Sonic hubs (whether the ceramic or steel bearing variety). I might rather mate the rims to Chris King's r45 hubs, Industry 9's road hubs, or even Dura-Ace hubs.

Anyone have any opinion about which C2 rim build might be a little better than the rest? Is it better to stick to the factory wheelset, or no?

Comments/recommendations on spoke count and lacing patterns of interest as well.

norm:

an excellent alternative to the HED Ardennes and their C2 rims is velocity's A23 rims and wheelset

http://store.velocityusa.com/products/productdetail/A23 Pro Build Wheelset/part_number=w4900M-700PRO/7455.0.1.1.791.21558.0.0.0?pp=12&amp;

they are also 23mm wide clinchers and are slightly lighter than the C2's

come in a dope lightweight build (1400grams) with sapix cx-ray spokes for 800 and with round spokes and higher spoke count for 500

actually, i think it would be possible to have the fancy version built for less than 800

review i've read are very good

A good alternative to King and Dura Ace hubs are the White Industries...they are cheaper, made in U.S.A like the Kings...lace those to Velocity A23's and you will have reliable, light wheels that come in around $600. I'm thinking of going this route...but so far my Neuvation R28 Sl5's are still rolling strong. Any heads up on when Mickey is getting us these frames?
yack

interesting, I will look into the Velocity option. Doesn't seem that offer their off-center rear rim in the 23mm format... that would be nice.

Hey Yacks --the Whites are heavyish, aren't they? Not that hub weight is a heavy concern.

Re: Mickey/Spooky... I will call him early next week. He was in the throws of NAHBS prep and presentation, just getting back to MASS this week. The published expected arrival is sometime later this month. I'll send a note to you fellows on squaring-up with finer-grain delivery time, as well as any components you might like to tack-on to the shipment. So, more soon...

The off-center rear rim is all marketing. It is the rim equivalent of ceramic hub bearings. I've had both ocr velocity rear rims and standard velocity rims...nooo difference.

Hey Norm,

I had wheelbuilder.com build a Powertap into a HED Belgian c2 clincher and I love them. Pair them with the Vittoria Open Pave Evo tires as they suggest and they're dynamite. Alex Horton is another guy to ask, he's the one who turned me on to them.

I did the DT Swiss 240 hub on the front, but there were several options. As far as spokes I went with the DT aero, 24 count, on their advice. I'm about 140-145 lbs.

I got a hell of a deal on them at Christmas time, not sure what they're like now. Not sure about weight either, they're probably a little heavier than some of the wheels discussed above. Certainly with the PowerTap Pro+ mine end up a little heavy.

ryan

Handlebar Stiffness!

i am thinking that i want to change out my handlebars from the stock ones that came with my specialized in '98 :) ... i have looked longingly at the ones that have that wide flatplace on them on which to rest the heels of the hands... but what i do really need is something very very stiff and strong as i am pretty heavy and tend to put a lot of torque on them. i was thinking that i dont really need the carbon ones, i think there are some aluminum ones out there with the flat tops. in the end, what is the stiffest, most rock solid set-up i could put together?

McKay

Posted By: mckayHandlebar Stiffness!

i am thinking that i want to change out my handlebars from the stock ones that came with my specialized in '98 ... i have looked longingly at the ones that have that wide flatplace on them on which to rest the heels of the hands... but what i do really need is something very very stiff and strong as i am pretty heavy and tend to put a lot of torque on them. i was thinking that i dont really need the carbon ones, i think there are some aluminum ones out there with the flat tops. in the end, what is the stiffest, most rock solid set-up i could put together?

McKay

pro vibe 7s. comes in compact, anatomic (ew) and classic bends. they stay OS all the way from the clamping area to right where the curve starts. not flat on top per se, but the OS section gives you more meat then any other round bar. i will also say that i find flat topped bars overrated, how often are you really using that hand position? if it's beyond climbing and BS'ing, your fit may have issues.