Mark Taylor said:

Sorry Bottom Bracket bearings

Mark,
     You have a bike with a BB86 bottom bracket standard.  You can read up on BB standards here
https://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/Bottom_Bracket_Standards_Reference.pdf

Here's a long explanation of bearing names and what they mean
https://www.hambini.com/technical-support/bearings.html

The bearing you're looking for should have an outer diameter of 37mm, an inner diameter of 24mm and a width of 7mm. Which probably will be noted 24x37x7.  

Thanks JP , i ordered a new one ,SRAM compatible 

Hambini makes a pretty sweet bearing removal tool too

https://www.hambini.com/bike-tools/hambini-bb30-pf30-bb386-bottom-bracket-installation-and-removal-kit.html

@Mark Taylor If you need a BB86 removal tool and a bearing press - LMK as I have them.

Road Tubeless problem.

To show @Mark Taylor that I am not a total luddite I decided to try Road Tubeless for the winter.

I have road specific tubeless wheels - Hunt (came fitted with tape, etc) and tires - Hutchinson and sealant - Stans.
I got the tires on OK, without needing tire-levers. Then I managed to inflate them with a track (floor) pump. I was expecting to have all sorts of problems and need to use an air compressor - but they pumped straight up.
HOWEVER I never heard this mystical 'bead snap' that I read about.

This was yesterday. This morning they were both flat. So today i injected the sealant in through the valve, pumped up and spun the wheels for a while. The front wheel still seems OK 5 hours later, but the rear is nearly flat again.

The max tire pressure on these tires is 85 psi and I have been up to 110 seaking this elusive 'snap'.

Thoughts, Ideas, Suggestions ??? - otherwise I'm going back to tubs.

@Mark Taylor et al,

I should have mentioned that BB86 is a standard found on Giant Road and CX and Gravel bikes.  

@ian ellis

While I don't think the "snap" is essential, it can be reassuring.  

Have you tried using a CO2 cartridge to blast air into the tire?  That can achieve the goal.  When I played around with tubeless, that was my solution to the blast.  

And here are some videos on how to make your own tubeless inflator.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=home+made+air+blast+for+tubeless

ian ellis said:

Road Tubeless problem.

To show @Mark Taylor that I am not a total luddite I decided to try Road Tubeless for the winter.

I have road specific tubeless wheels - Hunt (came fitted with tape, etc) and tires - Hutchinson and sealant - Stans.
I got the tires on OK, without needing tire-levers. Then I managed to inflate them with a track (floor) pump. I was expecting to have all sorts of problems and need to use an air compressor - but they pumped straight up.
HOWEVER I never heard this mystical 'bead snap' that I read about.

This was yesterday. This morning they were both flat. So today i injected the sealant in through the valve, pumped up and spun the wheels for a while. The front wheel still seems OK 5 hours later, but the rear is nearly flat again.

The max tire pressure on these tires is 85 psi and I have been up to 110 seaking this elusive 'snap'.

Thoughts, Ideas, Suggestions ??? - otherwise I'm going back to tubs.

Ian to get a tubeless to "seat" properly you need a lot of pressure really fast. Typically people either use a c02 cartridge or a pump that has a special feature for tubeless inflation.

With either you blast in the air and you'll hear a very loud click/snap/bang as as the bead seats. The "next morning" flat is definitely a thing. Usually means the bead didn't seat or the tubeless tape is cut.

@ian ellis try using some fairy liquid diluted ,just lather ,it over the tire bead with a sponge and pump up , its helps the bead sit

I've also got the "snap" after pumping air into the tire, spinning the sealant around a bit, and then lightly bouncing (see about halfway down) the tire on the floor

@Mark Taylor @Jules @mugwump
Thanks for those tips. The tires have stayed the same as they were earlier today - so better than before.
I am used to tubs (with latex inners) losing 50-70% of their air overnight, but I assume these tubeless are supposed to keep 95%+ and just need topping off each day ??

So tomorrow I will try the sudsy water tip and use a Co2 on each to see if that works.

Tubeless should lose zero overnight or overweek, if done right. The "bounce" is a good one too, you can be pretty aggressive about it, but tbh it's the air blast that "gits 'er dun"

Hurrah - those tips worked. I never heard that "snap" but then both Hunt wheels and Hutchinson tires claim their new seats and beads make fitting tires easier so maybe that had something to do with it. Anyway - they stayed fully inflated for 36 hours now.

My next "new bike tech" issue was getting my Wahoo Elemnt set up. Fortunately the Wahoo site helped me - The WiFi in the element can only operate on Channels 1-9 of 2.4Ghz setup, which seems very restrictive. Anyway 30 mins of reconfiguring my home WiFi setup and I got that working. I like it - it is more intuitive (to me at least) than my previous Garmin.

So I now have a new bike which I am excited to ride. I'll post a picture when I can (I've decided to ditch Polaroids and then scanning them and go digital  - so be patient)

too late for this cyclocross season... but never knew this existed, it is a topeak digital pressure gauge, same old, except it allows to also connect the pump, so you can use it while pumping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsCyftmX26E

Maybe the best DCR review ever.

Fisher-Price Smart Cycle Trainer In-Depth Review

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2019/12/fisher-price-think-learn-smart-trainer-review.html

If the rust is new its unlikely to cause your chain any real damage. It won't break, although you might get stiff links or poor shifting. Give it some lube. Attempt to loosen any stiff links (grab the links around it and gently massage back and forth). Usually a little lube is at it needs to spin smoothly (assuming they were in good working order beforehand). If it shifts poorly or makes an ungodly noise, then bring it to the shop.

Its a good idea to wipe down and use chain lube after all wet weather rides

Thanks for the tips.

Probably hose down the whole bike too.

If you can get it off...soak it in some diet soda overnight. 

@DiegoSanchez

I think the suggestions here are good.  I'd like to add a few things.

On days of inclement weather when the rides are of shorter duration, I fill two bottles with water before leaving home and take them with me.  I find I typically don't drink much when riding in the rain and not going long or hard.  The water is actually to rinse down the bike after I finish the ride and before I go inside.  One bottle for the drivetrain (to get out the grit), one for the rest of the bike.  It's not as good as a full wash, but it starts to get the gunk and salt off.

Once the chain is dry--I wait a few hours typically--I lube the chain and wipe off the excess.  

the bike should be good to go the next morning.

I think I've written elsewhere about full washes.  I have a dedicated bucket and store the cleaning tools in it which makes cleaning faster and easier.  

As for @JohnOlsson comment, being able to take your chain off is a good thing.  Master links from Shimano and SRAM are single use, but YBN and Wippermann make re-usable and KMC has both single-use and reusable.  It's always good to have a few spares around, and one in your seat bag.  11-speed chains are a uniform width, so you can typically use another brand master link.  

A simple way to do a good chain clean is degreaser and hot water in a used plastic container.  Just enough to cover the chain.  Agitate by hand.  After that, rinse with soapy water, then rinse with cold water.  Air dry.  

@DiegoSanchez

What @PatrickGrehan and @mugwump said + after any ride, but especially after rides in the wet you should inspect the bike to check for component wear and change as necessary. Wet road grit can really take a lot out of brake pads (certainly rim brakes, but I assume the pads in disc calipers too); you will probably have grit stuck to the tires, brush that off immediately (be careful you may have something sharp stuck in the tread) and then come back in a while to check for slow punctures. Also a build up of wet road crap anywhere you have the inner shift cable exposed can cause poor shifting so clean that area and spray a bit of lube.

Finally if it has been an especially wet ride - check your frame and those deep carbon wheels for water. It can sneak in. Frames and wheels have tiny holes in them to allow water out but if you can hear any sloshing about I recommend pulling the seatpost out and then leave the bike upside down for a while.

It is ALWAYS best to do this immediately after the ride so that you don't forget about it. Missing or delaying the next group ride because you find your bike with a flat, or bad gears or brakes that need adjusting due to pad wear is NO FUN for anyone.

Thanks so much for all your responses. I tried to remove the chain yesterday without the proper tools and I think I ducked it up. Will go to a mechanic today (hahaha)

Think I just found topic #1 for the bike maintenance Development series haha

Cleaning a bike in a tiny NYC apartment is an art in and of itself lol

Matt Budofsky said:

Cleaning a bike in a tiny NYC apartment is an art in and of itself lol

again, in NYC you don't clean a bicycle in your apartment, you clean it in a car wash.

Here's my cleaning/maintenance setup. All things shown (less bike) can be bought on Amazon (links to items available upon request). Another NYC option is going to a green space and posting up. Do be conscious of the environment when using cleaning products and storm water. There are hefty fines for dumping and they aren't just limited to trash. Thankfully I don't know this from experience.



Yet another option...child labor. A more effective, but frowned-upon solution. That's my cousin's kid for the record.

@eloy hence why its an art form and I'm no artist.

Guys- just go to your buildings never-used pet grooming center.