Jules said:

Interesting. I just got a new 530 and I'm loving it. Insane 12+ hour battery life and you can reroute anywhere you want, as well as see where you are and have been on the map. It also does a couple of things that I didn't expect but appreciate;

• warnings when you are coming up to a sharp turn
• links to weather alarms (flash floods, wind, storms) which are a big deal up here
• sleep vs off mode
• bike alarm
• if the computer comes off your bike the garmin app will tell you where it was when it disconnected
• battery levels for all the connected devices

Have you drank the Wahoo 'cooleade' yet? Its tasty....besides Wahoo does all of the things you mention (but better)

I've got an edge 820 i don't use if anyone wants to do some testing before they decide.

Jules said:

I wear shims now under my cleats - I'd prefer one less moving part every season when I swap new cleats.

Ok then.

So long as the last works for your feet, than they can be good.  I have the S-works road and MTB shoes.  I'm on my fifth pair of road shoes, dating back to 2006.  I broke off the heel cup in a crash on the first set, but otherwise, no problems.  I replace Boa dials about every six months on my road shoes--it's time to replace when the dials start slipping after hard efforts.  That's probably in the 4k mile range.  Luckily, they're easy to replace, and Boa has a good warranty.  While I wear the MTBs nearly as much, I don't wear them nearly as long, and for the most part, they are worn for low to moderate -effort city riding (I want them because I'm often towing the Burley Piccolo and my daughter).

I guess the S-works last is a bit on the narrow side, with a decently-proportioned toe box (I have long toes) and there's room for my high-arched foot.  The heel cup on the current crop is something that not everyone likes.  It's narrow and squeezes some.  I like it.  The material on the inside is also grippy, which I also like.  And there's room for my custom insoles, a plus (actually a deal-breaker if they didn't).  

The soles are super stiff.  The heel pad on the road shoes is pretty substantial for a road shoe.  The treads on the MTB shoes are minimal but do the job well--there's even some rubber on the sole so when you stand on the pedal unclipped, there's a solid connection.  I wish the toe rubber on the MTBs was a bit taller, because when I walk around the city in them, the short tread means the super-short inserts I put in for the toe spikes wear.  

As time has gone on, Specialized has switched to materials that absorb less and less water.  This is a plus all around.  Don't get wet as fast when riding and dry faster after washing.

The road shoes I can typically get about three years out of. I don't know why they can't last forever, but they don't.  I feel like the uppers get stretchier, but I don't know.  I think I'll get more out of the MTB shoes.  

Thanks, guys, for the feedback. Wahoo it is!

+1 sworks road shoe. I have this years TdU edition, easily the lightest and most comfortable shoe I've used. I also do like the Giro Empire SLX for casual road riding and have the off road version as well. Sworks shoe is definitely slim (v Giro/Rapha/Mavic - the brands I can compare against) but I have never had an issue with pressure/pinching/heat which I definitely had had with wider fitting shoes. 

Very helpful; I've had my Sidi road shoes since Moser came to town. In all the hustle & bustle someone was kind enough to steal my race shoes that day, so I bought a new pair. I guess that's about 8 years now. I lost the heel pad doing stunts with Garrigan and the screw was shorn clean off, so-unreplaceable. Not a big deal because I don't walk on them much, but the carbon on that heel is worn through now and I think it probably time.

Strange that the swerks shoes need replacing at all - what is it that comes apart?

Jules said:

Strange that the swerks shoes need replacing at all - what is it that comes apart?

That's the funny thing.  Nothing comes apart.

The first pair I broke.  Either the third, I wore out the heel pad and could no longer find a replacement pad.  The third definitely had an issue with the upper feeling too stretchy.  With the fourth, It felt like the upper had gotten too soft and stretchy--and I had replaced the heel pads once and it was appearing that finding replacements would soon be hard.  The fifth, I have the generation before what Rich has, has this Dyneema stuff on one side of the upper.  I had hoped the stuff would stay non-stretchy, but I'm starting to think it, too, is becoming stretchier.  Maybe I'm wrong and the sole is decomposing in some way.  

Hmmm.

Tire growth.

Curious if anyone else has measured their effective tire widths compared to advertised.

The Pacenti rims on my road bike are supposed to be 20mm wide internally.  

The Conti' GP 4-Season tires were labeled 23mm but measured a bit over 26mm. 

The Conti' GP4000sii tires I put on most recently are labeled 25mm, but measure 28.2mm in back and 27.1mm in front (digital calipers). They measured closer to 26 and 27mm when I first put them on two weeks ago.

I'm dropping pressure accordingly.  something like 75psi.  

WKO4 is on the way out.
As this has affected many businesses worldwide, many are finding that it will require significant resources to fix the problem at this time. Behind the scenes, we have actively been in the process of ramping down WKO4 leading into the Fall of 2020, and with that being said, our company has made the decision to move forward with ending support for WKO4 on Mac."

It's a weird way to kill off a program.  Seems like inattention is the root cause.  But they did offer me 50% off on WKO5, which I think they're doing for everyone on WKO4.

WKO4 was always weird. They said time and again it wasn't for managing your training, only for deep analysis and it cost - what - $200? People don't pay that much for Adobe products.

Jules said:

WKO4 was always weird. They said time and again it wasn't for managing your training, only for deep analysis and it cost - what - $200? People don't pay that much for Adobe products.

@Jules If the Sidi's worked for you for so long and you think your feet are getting wider - why not just get the Sidi shoes in a wide fitting ?

Some brands just have a wider toe-box - Lake for one. Their CX402 is a great shoe, and that also comes in a wide version if you need it.

I have a pair of Riivo shoes, which are freaking awesome. I have a leg discrepancy and I had these made with one carbon sole built up 7mm so that I don't need a shim, and the footbeds are built for my high arches. And I got them in a custom Orange, Blue and White color. Bespoke is the way to go if you have strange feet.
(Although I have never felt quite the same since I sold a kidney to buy them)

ian ellis said:

I have a pair of Riivo shoes, which are freaking awesome. I have a leg discrepancy and I had these made with one carbon sole built up 7mm so that I don't need a shim, and the footbeds are built for my high arches. And I got them in a custom Orange, Blue and White color. Bespoke is the way to go if you have strange feet.
(Although I have never felt quite the same since I sold a kidney to buy them)

These sound awesome, do you have a pic?? 

Random question for everyone: I need to take my crankset off and give it a good cleaning. The recommended torque value is 45Nm but my torque wrench tops out at 24Nm. Anyone have any suggestions of how I’d make sure my crankset is retightened correctly/safely without going out and buying a new wrench? 

If you have a luggage scale, you can use it by measuring your wrench and calculate how many pounds u need to make 45Nm, 45Nm is 33.1 ft lbs. So 12 inch wrench pulled to 33 lbs on luggage scale should equal 45Nm.... now been long time since i was In physics class but I believe it will work.

budget tesla model 3.

I like that setup.

@ShaneMurphy I ended up just buying the wrench, but appreciate the suggestion! My BB is now like butter too!

Anyone have a Stages single leg power meter and a Wahoo Kickr Core and notice discrepancies in power data between the two? I just did an FTP test and the Stages registered a whole 18W lower than the Kickr. Both calibrated beforehand, relatively fresh batteries in the Stages, both fully updated, etc. Any thoughts? Something with smoothing maybe?

you don’t you don’t need that negativity in your life. Ignore the stages. 

Nathaniel Picard Busky said:

Anyone have a Stages single leg power meter and a Wahoo Kickr Core and notice discrepancies in power data between the two? I just did an FTP test and the Stages registered a whole 18W lower than the Kickr. Both calibrated beforehand, relatively fresh batteries in the Stages, both fully updated, etc. Any thoughts? Something with smoothing maybe?

Stages should read higher, methinks. 18w is a *lot* though. These things typically claim +/-2% accuracy so unless you're doing 1000 watts to test it I'd call both and see what they suggest.

Firmware updates to both at the least, along with several rounds of zeroing.

I have a Stages single leg and a Kickr Core. I did a comparison between the two to see if my Kickr was inaccurate, or if it was just the typical higher-perceived-effort-while-indoors thing. The Stages and Kickr ended up being less than 3 watts difference, around the uncertainty advertised. 

18w is a lot though, one of the two might be wonky. Or is your right leg putting your left on its back?

In the past few weeks when I've recorded both I've noticed the Stages reads about 10W low with higher discrepancy at higher efforts, which I roughly expected (10W is +/- 3% of 300W) but the 18W difference is far too much especially given @Will Kalbacker is only experiencing +/- 3W. Hoping Stages or Wahoo will be able to provide some answers. Thanks guys!

@Nathaniel Picard Busky It could also be a potential leg imbalance and then the standard 3% difference. That would be my only guess there

This is a calibration issue or a buggy power meter. Hard to know which without a third one to compare.

As suggested, do check firmware, and triple check how you are calibrating (for example, unclipped from both pedals, while pointing the crank down for stages, similarly off the bike for kickr, etc...)

That's a frustrating admission.

I've seen a number of indoor training warmups that average more than 150w for the 10m warmup before going into a workout.  

So, I guess you need to warm up the training for 10m before doing the workout's warmup.  

@mugwump Exactly, and equally disappointing, I do know that the garage in which I have my trainer set up was quite warm during the test in question (80+) because that's just how hot it was outside so I wonder if in the future I'll need to invest in AC or wait until night or early morning when it's cooler to get good data.

So am i correct in saying that a takeaway from this is that calculating Power using your crank is more accurate (assuming normal wear and tear on a typical drive train)?