Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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thanks!
37 is the max i can run, too. like the tan walls on those WTBs.
I picked up a pair of WTB Raddlers (knobbier side knobs that the Riddler) in 40s. I like them a lot. Also considering dumping my SRAM Force CX1 and going with Shimano GRX.

Thoughts?

Hambini says SRAM isn’t even in the same zip code as shimano for mechanical tolerances and I tend to believe him - that said my SRAM 1x hasn’t failed me yet, and I am not a fan of the “whole lever” Shimano style.
My Sram 1x is a constant headache , multiple shops visits later ,still shift is terrible ,it seems fine in the stand , then on the road it tends to skip when out of the saddle , hanger is ok ( so I've been told)replacing housings , and a new chain this weekend,not hopeful!
That sounds like frame flex to me @Mark Taylor
I have SRAM 1x on everything and while I don't think I would recommend it for many reasons, I haven't had many problems with it. Sometimes it is tough to get shifting super super clean on the road bike but I think it's because I run an 11-42 with a 50t chainring. On my cross bike with an 11-32 (I think) and when I set up my road bike for racing with a tighter cassette, I have really solid shifting. 
@James Reeder Thirding the WTB Riddlers, enough tread for singletrack but not gnarly enough that I can't snag shorter road KOMs with a little extra effort. I've been in CT for the past few months and have ran the same set on my bike for literally everything. The tan walls are minty too, just be cautious when cleaning/lubing your chain, grease spots are permanent as far as I can tell.
Recently installed some Rene Herse Jon Bon Pass 35x700c I got the 35 thinking they would likely swell to 38ish -- but they are true to size, once on the rims they measured basically 35mm.

They feel great, tubeless installation took slightly more effort than the Donellys they replaced. Wasn't too bad, I chalked it up to the Herses being handmade.

So far they feel great, look awesome, and are a great alternative if you plan on quite a bit of asphalt and/or fire roads.

The 35s feels like are smack middle ground versatility. If I was to do over, I might commit one way or the other and for gravel I would get 38 or bigger and some thread. Probably the Herse Steilacoom 38s. 

Will get a chance to ride them on proper dirt this week. Will report back.




I've been running those Bon Jon's for a few years on my Waterford. Mine are the Extralite casing version but I've taken them on a fair bit of gravel and never had an issue. I've also done multiple asphalt rides over 200k and they definitely eat up the miles in comfort. 
I’ve got a rear derailleur shifting issue and am looking at the Kissena hive mind for help. 

I can get my SRAM CX1 rear derailleur to shift perfectly up (to easier gears) but then it hangs and rattles on several cogs when shifting to harder gears. I can fix this with the barrel adjuster, but this throws my off the shifts in the other direction.

The derailleur hanger is straight and I get the same issue with different wheels/cassettes. I checked the cable and it seems to be moving smoothly (I didn’t replace it). The pulleys appear to be okay. Maybe it’s the chain? The derailleur is probably 6+ years (when did CX1 come out?)

Anyone have thoughts about what I may be missing? 


Perhaps time for a new derailleur?

6+ seasons of cyclocross including some muddy races, might be enough for a some dirt to get stuck in the wrong places or little bents in the pulley legs, etc, etc...

That said, would hate to change the 
derailleur only to realize that was not it. Definately try a new chain first.
How about checking the alignment of the pulley under your smallest cog (aka the 11t)?

See about moving the derailleur inward a bit via the limit screw, then barrel adjuster.  If that doesn't work, get it back to zero, then outward a bit, and barrel adjuster.  

I'd also check the upper pulley.  Either it's narrower and doesn't have play or it has built in play.  If it's the latter, maybe it needs to be cleaned out.
for me, same issues, and tried all solutions mentioned above. but it turned out to be a 10spd shifter/11spd compatibility issue...
sounds like the behavior of a bent hanger - if thats not the case i agree fingers point to the pulleys being misaligned. Cx years are like dog years for parts....
I’ve got a rear derailleur shifting issue and am looking at the Kissena hive mind for help. 

I can get my SRAM CX1 rear derailleur to shift perfectly up (to easier gears) but then it hangs and rattles on several cogs when shifting to harder gears. I can fix this with the barrel adjuster, but this throws my off the shifts in the other direction.

The derailleur hanger is straight and I get the same issue with different wheels/cassettes. I checked the cable and it seems to be moving smoothly (I didn’t replace it). The pulleys appear to be okay. Maybe it’s the chain? The derailleur is probably 6+ years (when did CX1 come out?)

Anyone have thoughts about what I may be missing? 


I had the same issue , I brought to a shop , they told me I needed new housing , they were sold out😩
I ended up replacing the cable and housing , and for good measure clean the cassette and replaced the chain 
seems to be good for now
@Mark Taylor

That's a solid idea.

There's a short-term fix if one has at least one slotted housing stop, like the one on the stay: push the derailleur inward to create cable slack, remove the housing from the stop and one can then add some lube to the last section of cable, which then will go into the housing when one puts it back.  

My wahoo elemnt"died" completely after three years of use, so planning to get this bargain. For around $40(!!!) , you get loads of functions (power, heart rate, gps, sync to strava, ant+ etc. (just not the map on the computer)). Also in this sick orange color! Hopefully it lives up to the hype...
what hype?
That's the goke jif?
Magene also makes smart trainers that look suspiciously like wahoo kickrs. Although I know they're more well known in Asia.
A quick update on the post about poor derailleur shifting. In the end, it appeared that the cause was too much friction in the housing (most likely due to housing having gotten bent near when it entered the frame during a fall). Much cheaper option than replacing the derailleur. Thanks everyone for the helpful input

This led me to discover my new favorite tool purchase: the Internal Cable Routing Kit by Park Tools.

Wow, this is a clever set of cables with magnets that allows you to effectively thread your new housing through internally routed frames. Gone are the days of floss and vacuum cleaners. Works for Di2 as well as brake/shift housing. Given I have four bikes with internal routing and will eventually need to replace housing on all of them, it is worth $60 in all the time and cursing it will save me.

https://www.parktool.com/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1-2


that thing is one of the best tool investments I ever made!
glad you got it sorted! 
It looks like Jumbo and Canyon/SRAM have teamed up with this company that makes continuous glucose monitors (CGM). Us diabetics use these things to monitor blood sugars and make decisions on whether to eat or take insulin. It was a genuine life changer for me and I had a feeling it might make its way into the sports performance world. Most units can tell you whether your sugars are dropping or rising and make it easy to predict if/when a bonk/ low blood sugar is coming. This is obv super important for those of us that run our endocrine system on manual but I'm curious if it would really help someone who's not a diabetic. Nothing beats a good ol pancreas and a regular body kind of does that monitoring automatically. 

Interestingly, it looks like the ones they use require a separate, cell phone sized device that you tap onto the lil patch thingy to get a reading (looks like a Freestyle Libre). My device (Dexcom G6) checks my sugar every 5min and sends it directly to my phone with no middleman. There is a hack to get it on your Garmin head unit but I haven't quite figured that out yet. Team Novo Nordisk is known to use the type I use for that reason.

It is kind of mind boggling because the CGM I use for my actual diabetes would run about $360/month without insurance. It's kooky to see these folks use them to try and ride a bicycle faster. But I guess Europe is a lil different.



i think apple tried to patent a bgm that relied on ir light transdermal. Bgm in a watch would be mega.

Yes, the company has been on my radar for a little while
https://www.supersapiens.com/en-US/

But sure looks like it can talk to a phone




Ah you're right, the Libre works with your phone now but you still have to scan it to get a glucose reading. It's possible that they're different devices, but they look almost identical. 

A very rare endorsement. New wheels anyone?

https://youtu.be/Yzgyb-eg4PQ
New Campy Gruppo!
1X !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isFw8dN3m9I
Maybe it's the isolation talking but clip on aerobars seem to make a lot of sense these days for longer solo rides with no drafting. Is this a stupid idea?
Maybe it's the isolation talking but clip on aerobars seem to make a lot of sense these days for longer solo rides with no drafting. Is this a stupid idea?
Well I mean how far are you talking about? I've never had need of them for 4, 5 hour rides. Granted I can't even remember the last 5 hour ride I did...

Are you trying to go faster, or crash more? Aerobars are good for both.