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Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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Faster! In my head, the faster I can go the more road I can cover in my limited allotted outdoor riding time on weekend mornings and the farther out I can go...

My outdoor rides have been embarrassingly short - 2hrs or so of moving time, though I plan to extend it to 3-4hrs. The route I've taken to is a straight line (I dub it the "9W of the north shore of LI") with minimal elevation gains. I've been doing the forearms on the handlebars position, but it isn't very comfortable for my old bones so figure having a nice set of clip ons with proper bolstering would help. I've been pulling a JP and riding in the drops mostly but even switching between the fake aero position and drops I can feel my chest turning into a parachute.

Point taken about the crashing part!

Did I dream these or were there drop attachments back in the day that allowed you to have drop bars that lived in the center of your bars? I think they were popular in crits?
@David Yang I think I see where you're going.  

Granted, my family lets me get out for a long ride each weekend (four hours! quite lucky), but even with them, I do indeed try to think about what would allow me to cover more ground in my allotted time.  I haven't wanted to put my race wheels on the bike to see what that's like, but my dedication to that position is wavering.  I'm kind of interested to see how much of a difference it would make, but am afraid it will be too good to turn back.  

I definitely try to wear a tight-fitting jersey and have dabbled in wearing a skinsuit.  I currently have Conti' race tires (First time I've done this in years; it's a pandemic thing) on my 28-spoke wheels, but I think the tires are coming off in november.  And once I'm over 20mph, I'm always in the drops (I'm also doing a 3m plank every day to keep my core strong; I recommend)

One of the issues, besides the #confidencedoping that comes from not having the race wheels on (oh so fast when I put them on for racing), is wondering how much benefit will come with the gear.  My average speed, depending on the terrain and distance of the route I do, seems to varies 16.8 to 17.8mph and I'm going fairly hard.  On the flats, I'm often in the low 20s, which would benefit from the aero (coming back on 9W, I'm often in the 23-26mph range for the final miles, it would be cool to see it go to the 25-29mph range).  I would think that where you're riding, yes, once your'e at a certain level of fitness, the bars could make you a good bit faster.    

The aero wheels are always on, but the aero bars are a different story.  I'd want to put on the short, stubby kind, like what some people are using in long gravel races.  And I don't know how much I'd want to be in them around autos, though I figure I'd get used to that.

In two hours, on the roads you ride, how dramatic do you think the difference could be?  Do you think the position would be safe?  How potholed are the roads, how many intersections, that sort of thing?

As for your question, yes, Scott made Rakes, and Cane Creek made Speed bars, which did what you were dreaming about.  That could be a better idea than leaning on your elbows.

Another thing to consider if you're trying to take in all options: one-piece bar/stem combos.  They do seem to make a quantifiable improvement in speed.  If you look at what pro's are riding, many seem to opt for this.  I like my traditional bend bars, and am worried about the possible increased stiffness as well as a lack of tape on the tops, and in many cases, the reach on the bars seems ridiculously short. That written, it could be another, albeit rather expensive, answer.  

The question, I guess, becomes, 'what is fun'?  Speed is fun, but does it take something else away? Does it take away too much safety?  If you're not on a good day, will the bars demoralize?  Does the position prevent you from enjoying the scenery or taking in the day or the bike?  

Rake
https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/QecAAOSwjvxdIkQV/s-l225.jpg

Cane Creek
https://media.karousell.com/media/photos/products/2020/7/19/cane_creek_speed_bar_road_clip_1595163590_3ac77c1b

Stubby aero bars from Vision
https://shop.visiontechusa.com/en/type/aerobars/aerobars/triathlon-time-trial/team-mini-clip-on


@David Yang
i saw these the other day
they seem targeted to them gravel scene 
The Scott Rakes are exactly what I remember seeing back in the day! These new mini aero bars on the market seem to be an interesting compromise...

Thanks for the reality check, Strava is telling me I barely cracked 18mph avg on Sunday's ride and it was a mostly windless day. I can't imagine being more aero on optimistically 50% of the ride will save a noticeable amount of minutes to ride more miles, but it *feels* that way which is kind of the qualitative thing that makes a ride enjoyable. The road I've been keen on is dead quiet when I ride it Sunday mornings, with few intersections outside of some main business hubs it passes through. Pretty good quality tarmac most of the way too. 
IMHO don't bother. If you run out of comfortable positions on a 2-4 hour ride you probably need to adjust your fit. One hour at X power gives you the same fitness benefit as one hour at X power with aerobars. Probably more since the aero position usually compromises power & flexibility.

In addition the non-aero position brings with it such luxuries as braking, looking around and the rare delicacy of being able to absorb an unexpected front wheel impact.
If you want, I think I have a pair of those stubby vision bars somewhere from when I was hoping to dabble in draft-legal triathlon. They're popular amongst slow swimmers hoping to claw their way back to the front group. ITU races allow you to use aerobars that don't extend beyond your brake hoods. That might give you an idea of how stubby they are.

You can totally have them if you want to give them a try (may ask you to sign a waiver beforehand too)! I never got a chance to put them to real use, but I think the comfort/sustainability-to-aero-benefit ratio is not great. It feels a lot like draping your hands over the bars except your forearms have somewhere to sit. They're a pretty heavy addition too, but that might not matter if your routes are pretty flat. 

@RobertMullen will DM you. Figure it's something to try out while im avoiding group rides, like having hairy legs and ankle socks... 
keep us posted, would be fun to know how you fare.
Alberto Contador and Ivan Basso making bikes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqEWOhmi8Ag

The way the cables enter the frame is worth note.
and judging by the price of a frame, their target market already lives in Monaco.  :#
Looking at the photo I realized just how much of the rear triangle and back wheel are obscured by that SRAM AXS rear derailleur.  That thing is huge.

@David Yang I was hoping you'd pull this one out.
HIGH LEVEL HOTNESS ALERT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHuWOEA4iM8
So much more character and personality than the Magma!
^ They're making the entire peloton look like corporate stiffs. Moar fines!
ISO Recommendations:

As some of you may know, I'm using a Cannondale SuperX as an all-in one CX/Gravel/Road solution. Currently I have the stock WTB rims on it with 37C WTB Riddlers. My plan has always been to purchase a second set of wheels to keep road tires on permanently, ideally this wheelset being light, aero, and road race-capable. I've been told to check out LightBike's selection as my budget maxes out around $800. I've also been putting the decision off because given the lack of racing, I don't really need to be super fast all the time. I've found some options online like this one:
https://www.theproscloset.com/products/cantu-cx-disc-carbon-tubular-700c-wheelset
But there's so much out there I'm not even sure where to start. Thanks in advance y'all!

If you can stretch your budget a little further, heard only good things about Hunt wheels...

https://us.huntbikewheels.com/collections/road-wheels


Those are tubulars.  

Not that you should necessarily mind, but for max flexibility, you should stick to clinchers that can be run tubed or tubeless.  I know some companies want you to choose, so if necessary, go with tubed.

I'd recommend something in the 38-50mm depth.   My cursory look is that it will be tough to find carbon clinchers at the price you want unless you can find a way to get it below retail.  


I had to surf around for a while, but I found a pair of Reynolds Attack wheelset (carbon/tubeless ready) on ebay for about $850 after taxes and fees. It looks like Reynolds is the most affordable, second hand top brand out there. I think in part because some direct to consumer bikes come with them stock and people usually swap them out right away. I got these because they are very light and good enough for any fast group ride but can also take a 33c CX tubeless tire if/when cross comes back. They also came with a new pair of 28c Specialized tubeless road tires which saved me $100+. 

I was going to go the LightBicycle route too as they seem to have decent reviews for budget carbon.

Also, I may be wrong, but I think the SuperX has funky spacing in the rear that requires wheels to be dished slightly differently? Just something to keep in mind when tallying up the cost. 
Go ask Ilya at Redbeard. They'll hook you up.
@mugwump Re: tubeless vs tubed, what's your reasoning behind defaulting to tubed?

Regardless, thanks all! I'll hopefully have a new wheels day post for ya in the near future
3 spoke tri in the front and disc in the back. Gravel time trials are a thing. 
If you can stretch your budget a little further, heard only good things about Hunt wheels...

https://us.huntbikewheels.com/collections/road-wheels


They just put out an interesting set of alloy wheels. They're not super light, but looks like they put some work into the aerodynamics of them: 

https://cyclingtips.com/2020/10/hunt-34-aero-wide-disc-alloy-wheelset-review/
FYI , most of their wheels seem to be pre order for early next year 
@mugwump Re: tubeless vs tubed, what's your reasoning behind defaulting to tubed?

Regardless, thanks all! I'll hopefully have a new wheels day post for ya in the near future
My concern is that some of the latest-generation tubeless are also hookless.  Hookless rims for tires in the 23-30mm range are currently very limited in what tires they can take.  I should have mentioned that.  I'd make sure to have a  hooked (technically, it's crochet) rim for more flexibility.  

I should also point out that many road tires, particularly road tubeless, have really tight beads these days.  It's lawsuit avoidance tech as well as a standard in desperate need of updating.  

Road tubeless, while I know it has followers, is a tough proposition.  High pressure and low volume makes any burp potentially catastrophic.  Furthermore, rolling resistance, while better in a few road tubeless, is generally lower in tubed.  I also generally feel that the risk of getting flats is about the same as the risk of the sealant drying out.  Both can and will occur, the former is a drag when it happens on the road, the latter is often more work.    
FYI , most of their wheels seem to be pre order for early next year 
Time to save up...
This 12spd upgrade kit is kind of intriguing! I don't think many of us NEED 12 speeds on the road or on gravel, but I love that these little companies are doing things to fill the gaps intentionally created by the groupset manufacturers. I'm not sure i'd be comfortable doing it on my own, but the tutorial looks very thorough and p easy to follow. 

https://ratiotechnology.com/product/12-speed-upgrade-kit/

12 SPEED UPGRADE KIT

£49.50

This upgrade kit allows you to pair 11 speed mechanical Sram® shifters with a 12 speed Eagle™ derailleur and cassette. This is the neatest solution on the market to gaining all the performance advantages of a wide-range 1×12 drivetrain on a gravel, road or touring bike without the expense of electronic shifting.

Does anyone know a local NYC shop that can repair a bent steel frame?
What and how bent? Might be able to DIY it at home.