I actually tried really hard to make these shoes work but I couldn't get the right fit. One size was too small and the next size up was too big. They don't make half sizes for these so I was a bit out of luck. My feet are kind of wide though so this could be n=1. If they fit, they seemed like really cool shoes. Very stiff like a road shoe but with some rubber on the sole.

The only other concern I had with them is that there is some exposed carbon on the soul. So 'cross dismounts might be a lil hairy. I really like the Specialized Recon 3's that I ended up in though. They're stiffer than my last mtb shoes, decently light and racey, and they're sometimes on sale on the specialized site. I gather they're a lot like the S-Works version but with cheaper, heavier materials (but also ~$200 cheaper). 

Nathaniel Picard Busky said:

How often are y'all replacing your cycling shoes? I've got over 3k miles on my Giro Privateer mtb shoes and they make awful noises on the trainer but visually seem fine.

There are a few different issues here.

But the short answer is 3,000 miles is nothing.  

Back in the days of Velcro, I'd pretty much use a pair of shoes  until the Velcro went.  I tried getting replacement velcro, but it was never as good.

Since I got into S-works road shoes, with replaceable dials, I get 3-4 years out of my road shoes before replacing them.  So that's in the range of 24-32,000 miles.  I think I'm on my fifth pair now, and the first pair broke in a crash after a year.

With MTB shoes, now I've got shoes with dials, so they're probably four years old now.  But with MTB shoes, I've had uppers de-laminate and tread lugs wear out, so once that starts happening, it's time to get some new shoes.

Switching shoes generally sucks--cleat placement, getting used to the upper, etc--so I generally don't like switching unless I have to.  And different shoes have different lasts, so don't assume that a shoe you like the look of fits.  This is why people often stick with the same brand of shoe, even the same model; so they know it will (pretty much) work with their feet.  As an example, I'm pretty sure the S-works last is different than the Recon last.  

The noises, however, you should look into.  It could be the shoes, the cleats, the pedals, the cranks, etc.  Basically don't assume it's the shoes.  But start there.  Clean the cleats, try to determine if they're worn out, lube them with a dry lube.  IF the noise persists, clean the pedals, and lube the retention system.  

Oh wait, you use Eggbeaters right? Mine make an awful clicking and creaking noise which I read has to do with the clear interface not siting properly in the retention system? Something about there being too much play. This thread also seems to think that is a sign of impending doom, but I haven't hit that yet.

I thought it was my bottom bracket or something but I couldn't receate the noise when off the bike. When I changed shoes, the clicking reduced significantly but is still there (and only exists on my cross bike, not my mtb with the same cleats/ shoes/ pedal model). 

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/crank-bros-pedal-annoying-click-when-pushed-down-hard-and-clipped-in/ 

I have a 2 pairs of shimanos ,and i love them

my eggbeaters currently make that squishy squeak/click, too. tread contact sleave or pedal refresh kit is supposed to do the trick. i've used them since aug '19 and still really like these pedals. hope it works.

My road shoes are about 5 seasons old, easily over 30K miles. My CX/off road shoes last 2 ~3 seasons, but CX puts then thru quite a bit. Generally your shoes will become ugly and scoffed way before they are not functional. 

If you need new shoes, Shimano, Giro or other brands. Check with Redbeard bikes, they'll hook you up.

Bottom Bracket question. I am in the process of installing a new custom solid bottom bracket from Hambini (see below) and it requires some non-standard BB30 spacers. Typical T47 BB30 have only about 1mm protruding from the frame.

I am assuming that the total spacing distance on each side should be equal but the drive side and the non-drive side of the crank make that calculation rather tricky.

The drive side has a negative cavity where spacers typically go. How deep is that, exactly?

@Jules

Dipping a toe into the profit-making side of Hambini.  Most interesting that he doesn't include spacers or advice.  I tried to figure out what BB this is to better understand, but I see nothing in the T47 category.

Is this a shell that adapts a T47 to work with BB30 cranks?  

Maybe some of these spacers are the answer?
https://cannondaleexperts.com/collections/bb30-pf30-wave-washers-shields-shims-spacers

OR a more complete listing from Wheels?
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/bottom-bracket-parts/spindle-spacers.html

Do you have a set of Vernier calipers to measure depth here?  While I have a digital set, the old-fashioned kind probably could be sufficient?

"Most interesting that he doesn't include spacers or advice."
 Exactly my thought

He's been super attentive via email regarding spacers and general "wtf am I doing" questions.

Per Mr. H "The tolerance for left to right is +/-3mm, that’s not my tolerance, that is the tolerance stackup if you add the frame and groupsets together. I doubt you would notice it. You can meddle with the spacers to try and centre things up but this is the problematic reason and I suggest everyone uses a shimano crankset."

He's also offered to custom mill me (free of charge) the exact spacer I need.

It should be noted mine is a prototype which is why there is no mention of it yet on the website.

I think I've got everything working - going to head out for a spin after lunch and I'll report back.

As for the calipers - I have them but the inside of the drive train side is bowl-shaped so there is nothing that makes things easy to measure.

Smooth as butter!

I put Shimano brake pads on my road bike in January.  this is the first time I've used Shimano pads since perhaps the'80s.  The rear pads are pretty close to done.  The front pads show major wear.  

This seems way faster wear than the SwissStop and KoolStop pads I've used over the years.  Can't say I've notice any difference in performance one way or another.  The bike stops when I want it to.

Is this pace of wear typical for Shimano pads?

I had similar issues on my commuter , i switched to the blue swiss stops , much better

#hotness!

To be honest I never thought Durian Rider had this in him

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nC3R7WdUc7I

@Jules

To be honest, I didn't know you bothered with Durian Rider.

mugwump said:

@Jules

To be honest, I didn't know you bothered with Durian Rider.

Ha! I don't but when searching for un-viewed Hambini videos this one came up; along with an "independent real engineer" review of one of his bottom brackets. TLDR on that one was pretty impressive. 0.02mm out of true on the 'worst' side.

I Watched my first Hambini video today , what ever his engineering props are I wouldn't know ,
but some of his humor is pretty out of line,

I agree; he seems to have toned it down quite a but recently

Can we remove the durian video. He is everything that is wrong.

gotta be honest, I understand Hambini's appeal, personally, however, I find his videos terribly boring.

The only one I watched , he said “ did you hear that I was trying to talk like a fairy,

Mark Taylor said:

The only one I watched , he said “ did you hear that I was trying to talk like a fairy,

Jesus that guy... I just sent him a note about a xylon b joke he cracked. 

Jules said:

Mark Taylor said:

The only one I watched , he said “ did you hear that I was trying to talk like a fairy,

Jesus that guy... I just sent him a note about a xylon b joke he cracked. 

haha how could this possibly come up in a bike tech video? 

Unrelated, I have been lucky enough to save up some money this year and decided to splurge a bit when I saw the right deal. I basically did what I said about when we’re talking about group set compatibility. I picked up a NIB SRAM AXS RD from Facebook market place for $400 w battery and charger and then snagged the controller from Brands with a discount. Also shopped around for a new cassette (non xd because for some goddamn reason Scott specs this bike with SRAM Eagle SX and Shimano hubs???) and found a good deal on a GX crankset. Considered splurging for the carbon one but figured the alloy one would be just fine and the price difference didn’t feel worth it. All in all a full group set upgrade from SRAM’s lowest tier Eagle group to a mix of their mid tier stuff and top of the line stuff for around $800 🤷‍♂️ 

Tan sidewalls are fiyah

eggbeaters on everything!!!

RobertMullen said:

Jules said:

Mark Taylor said:

The only one I watched , he said “ did you hear that I was trying to talk like a fairy,

Jesus that guy... I just sent him a note about a xylon b joke he cracked. 

haha how could this possibly come up in a bike tech video? 

Apparently he’s a big fan of Zylon, a Finnish death metal band. That dude seriously needs some better friends around him.