• The crux comes with praxis M30 cranks and their thread fit bottom bracket.
• First step is to remove the cranks (easy) and that bb (easy but not trivial)
• You need a 12 notch tool to unthread the drive side
• Of course, their notches are proprietary, so is not like the threaded bb tools you have are going to work
• Praxis sells the tools in batches of two because you want to hold the non drive side in place while you unthread the drive side.
• Praxis includes a free water bottle with the order, they understand the pain
• So unthread the drive side, but then knock out the non drive side
• I have two of the three cup bearing removal tools Park makes
• Of course neither of my two will work for the praxis size
• So..., I am now the owner of all three cup/bearing removal tools park makes
• BTW, did I mention, the Praxis M30 spindle is 30 mm on the drive side and 28 mm on the non drive side. Why isn't it 30 mm all the way across? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ read the TLDR
• Ok praxis removed
• Now I need to install the dub BB 
• I realize quickly that the dub bb I have is too long -- it is 72mm for MTB, rather than 68mm for road
• No worries, all I need is to replace the little plastic tube between the two cups, this one is too wide, just need the road sized one
• Ilya explains something different via email, which I don't understand because it is not logical
• Turns out SRAM makes only one size of the little plastic tube, if you need a different size you need to change the full non drive cup (which includes the bearing). Why? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
• Oh wait wait... there's more... I have a cool Wheels Mfg press tool, that has all kind of cup/bearing drift sizes... except, you guessed it, not one for DUB
• the DUB spindle is not 30 mm, is not 29 mm, it is 28.99 mm, SRAM is not even shy about it, they did this so they would not get sued by who knows who -- yup that's right ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
• Wheels Mfg sells the drift sizes, I order them, they did not send a free water bottle
  
• To grease or not to grease or to loctite, that is a whole other rabbit hole
• Another challenge with press fit bottom brackets is that if you get lucky or unlucky the bb might or not fully fit your frame... so grease, or loctite need to be used, but literally there is no way to know which is better until the thing starts creaking while riding
• I use a tiny dab of Phil Wood grease
• ok press the thing in
• install the cranks
• not even gonna get into how SRAM adjusts the preload, at this point one is just happy it all works
• Crank looks awesome brand new
• SUCCESS
• go ride cunningham all rusty, omg I totally scuff the cranks up on their first ride, haha oh well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
• and if you actually read this, kudos, this post is worst than removing and installing bottom brackets

JohnPowell said:

I've been seeing those Winspace Hyper X wheels mentioned online quite a bit. I wrote them off for some time, but then Hambini comes out with wind tunnel testing numbers that position them as faster than some 80mm wheels from better known brands (Zipp, Enve, etc). I even read some mention that they could be the OEM supplier for brands like Hunt.

Hambini went on to rave about the build quality as well.

Anyone know much about them or know someone who has experience racing on them?

JohnPowell said:

I’m wondering the same thing. He published a very well researched test that he helped conduct on the aerodynamics of a wide range of wheels. His analysis of the results are extremely thorough and based on a clear understanding of fluid dynamics and aerodynamics. It’s a very no BS and rational paper.

The only people who didn’t like it were Flo and only because he showed that their data was extremely flawed.

Jules said:

I find him extremely transparent. Other than his over the top language he's been a breath of fresh air.

eloy said:

Hambini is a mysoginist prick. He might represent every thing wrong with cycling. Saying that some product from a big company is crap does not make him good. I am saddened to learn that anyone here enjoys his videos.

Because it is not worth anyone's time. This guy is an active jerk. He is part of what's wrong with the world, he is a troll, the best way to deal with trolls is to ignore them.

eloy said:

nobody has come back with evidence refuting him

Because it is not worth anyone's time. This guy is an active jerk. He is part of what's wrong with the world, he is a troll, the best way to deal with trolls is to ignore them.

• Plan is to drive to Baltimore on Friday, you know, a big national level race
• So... let's cut some tubes the afternoon before. What could go wrong?!?
• Consider, specially that I had this bicycle since 2019, with the stem chimney since ride one
• In any case, the aesthetics of my stem chimney had been getting to me lately
• I have all the necessary pieces, had them for years, a cool saw guide, and 32 tpi blades, etc...
• Ok, let's do it!
• The challenge, not often mentioned, is that on modern bikes, with internal routing and hydraulics brake lines, well, you can remove the fork from the frame, but you can't really detach the fork and frame, at least not without adding hours of unrelated cable routing and brake bleeds
• the solution for most bike shops and mechanics is to cut the fork in the frame
• Not great, but it totally can work
• About one hour is spent figuring out how to remove the specialized steerer expander plug... it is a head scratcher... 
• a youtube video has some tips, but somehow doesn't mention that if you follow their instructions, the bottom of the expander will end deep down in the fork
• whatever, I figure it out, remove the expander
• I do one thing very right: I measure like 20,000 times, leaving a little extra on top
• Set up outside so that carbon dust flies in the wind
• Set up and tape up a trash bag all around the frame and headset, so the carbon does not get anywhere in the frame or headset
• Similarly, some paper towel inside the fork steerer to catch any dust heading that way
• the fork is not as steady as it would be off the bike and in a clamp
• but the cut goes well, looks better than the factory cut. hotness.
• a little 320 sand paper to smooth it all out
• insert the expander back
• wait wait wut?
• the expander wont fit all the way back in!!
• it hits some imperfections at the bottom of the fork, past the headtube.. ugh
• freak out moment, as now I can't put any of this back together
• a long search in my parts bin, uncovers an FSA expander
• phew!
• it works, but, um, still concerned the FSA expander doesn't reinforce the fork like the specialized expander
• i am guessing the reinforcement is important, but oh well...
• this will have to do for charm city
• put it all back together
• this looks sharp
• let's go race bikes!
• the worst that can happen is that I break the fork, haha
• in any case, setup survives a weekend of hard core racing, and frankly it is probably ok forever
• still, to get this out of my head, Monday, post race, spent a few minutes cutting the specialized expander so it wont hit the bottom of the fork
• is not totally perfect, as the bottom plug doesn't sit inside the expander tube, still bites into it, so it is good for the needed application
• fit it all in, nice!
• my part bin had a super cheap carbon top cap that is like days lighter than the original specialized
• put it all back
• sharp!
• ok, not sure when yet, but let's go race bikes!!