Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

8105 comments · 108281 views
@GrantSeltzer since I dig rabbit holes, I was reminded of a conversation that I had with the guy who designs Litespeed bikes.  That sent me to Litespeed's site.  their Watia in the ML has less BB drop and less trail than the Lynskey, FWIW.  Still more BB drop than a CX bike though.  
There is quite a bit to dissect in your question, @GrantSeltzer , "geo compare to traditional cross frames"

A few quick reactions:
  • That Linskey looks great, it is not a cross bicycle
  • You LOVED the times you raced cross, much less so when we raced gravel - lean into that, lean into cyclocross -- you will be able to ride the cross bicycle in any setting
  • If you can push the budget I would buy a Crux. TODAY.
  • If you rather not do carbon I would buy 20 Ritchey Swiss Cross before almost any other metal bike, linskey or litespeeds, because those Ritchey bikes are sexy, and so is Ben Frederick and his little monsters -- he even shows how to get them in "Gravel Mode"
Else, in the less relevant dissection: The Linskey angles (not steep), bottom bracket height (crazy low), and wheelbase (supah long) suggest is it not a race bike.

SWISS CROSS BABY:


CRUX RIGHT NOW NOW:

Doing a lot of mulling over advice and thoughts still but as an aside, David Kirk bikes are by far the hottest hot in bike frames (I love metal, dont like carbon)

http://kirkframeworks.com/models-and-accessories/jks-cross/
Those Kirks look great. I would be mindful of the steel fork, and wonder if better with a carbon fork. Never seen a Kirk, but there are a few steel bikes on the CX circuit. These I see all the time (all use carbon forks):

Ritchey Swiss Cross! Just watch out for tire clearance, I think they reserve their gravel/adventure frame for 40mm+ tire clearance if that's on your list of requirements.
Ritchey Swiss Cross! Just watch out for tire clearance, I think they reserve their gravel/adventure frame for 40mm+ tire clearance if that's on your list of requirements.
From Ben's post linked above. This is his gravel mode for the Ritchey Swisscross -- using Challenge Gateway tires, which are only made 40mm or 45mm  

Ah yeah - I went down the rabbit hole of researching the Swiss Cross last month (ended up with an older variant that I'm rebuilding...) and seemed like 38-40mm was the upper limit depending on wheel/tire combo. Personally I think that's enough? But the trend seems to be really big tires right now so reviewers pointed to the Outback as the one to get if that's a requirement.


an update on my Stages Powermeter issue.

The airing out of the meter didn't do anything.  Stages offered to replace the Generation 1 electronics with the latest for $200.  I took a look at the website and they're blowing out Cannondale Hollowgram Stages arms for $199.99.  And if I do that, I don't have to pay to ship my arm back to them and don't have to wait.  



https://stagescycling.com/en_us/product/gen-3-stages-power-l-cannondale-si-power-meter

FWIW, Cannondale's Hollowgram arms combined with a BB30 bottom bracket is a super-light, very stiff setup.  The Hollowgram setup I had on my Cannondale CX bike stayed put without needing service through ten seasons.    

The only limiters are if you don't have BB30 or one of the few variations, PF-30, BB30a, it doesn't matter.  And the design is being discontinued, but the bearings will never be discontinued.  Cannondale makes a bunch of different spiders and direct mount rings for the design.  
Whoa that's an awesome deal. Any way to check if that's compatible with some older SRAM BB30 cranksets I have? When we got the Stages deal I had to put on GXP adapters and use a Rival crankset. But if this thing can pop onto my old SRAM carbon cranksets... 

edit, looks like outside of the bolt to tighten the arm onto the axle it should fit?

edit 2, ordered. YOLO and all that.


@David Yang LMK if you need a loaner of the Cannondale Hologram crank removal tool (KT013) to remove your old crank arm. If you have a newer model it might not be necessary, I think the newer designs self extract as you turn the nut in the center.

@David Yang

Never tried that before.  


If it doesn't work, you'd need a right arm like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/325727112542?hash=item4bd6d94d5e:g:ngcAAOSwiQtkrRjZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8PePMtOqILoyIKydTILD%2BfBVYwFGVxlBQUndKyy427u2ZpA6MvvlBe0STgd1qKjrv20cRFP7E0Ws9gXwTzAoS4Zd23Db89nRSC%2BkNTzIEOjbTagRDoevDrzLR9XET3LefLbONUKYyMhbN7q7%2Ftj8KkBUEGjJi2rsdWs%2FLMEcGlL9xphXT3j1tB3C9fr2miPNZpJEe2PegeD3WW3OoqNG5gMmXqfQWrnYDTGSfVCiz9jd7XbAPJNeZfzrpFRO8EMNmmRj7OhEnJ1N7%2Fkj4%2B6nUvvaBc1cl3jSLSVVDQ0tPg9EmJcwawBiQo2pup27bxsVvw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwrWT_fBi

A spindle like this https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=cannondale+bb30+bottom+bracket+spindle+road&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=cannondale+bb30+bottom+bracket+spindle&_osacat=0  

bearings, spacers, retaining clips like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/175891930797?hash=item28f3f9dead:g:zn4AAOSwrXBk-SVJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8E1EoquhefytXykMxh%2FRFreghYYsQWVInrc%2BSw8m8AqBzcFu7cJ1lgX092WNOMNWM9MqUnTwU2%2F15pKq0miUNjjBWauOJWjMDPcdtjbjzVThosNn4dG9bLOtpUilUEyBhcWUOzoObHZOvzMKjbG4gO%2FtN3gKRWoIHoWdquShnAvM3QB0%2B9HVJN9mp5FEHpvJci%2FjAv6incArEwdSBVp4wAHTlF8p6ZwM70y%2Fk3ghcX7vbnkAIHRhaVmFGAD%2BAa5%2BBfHnTK0ymHqueM%2FcoHqXXzLulrlpbKiR3tnWYV1sN5epfnHLskwkDvaKCDz1fTrh3g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_rMtv3wYg

And I do have both the crank puller and bearing press for this.
Yeah so I have 2 old sram bb30 cranks - one is a pro carbon model which has the spindle attached to the left arm so I'd need to get the spindle separately (thanks for the link JP). The Force set is like all the other groupset chainsets which have the spindle attached to the right. Anyway the bolt and the spindle 8 spline pattern on the Stages site look identical to the Force arm I have. The only difference is the Force arm uses a standard 10mm allen key while the Cannondale looks like a specific patterned tool? Will have to look that up.
I'm pretty sure I have an old Hollowtech spindle knocking around in the basement. If you need one just holler and I'll see if I can dig it out.

As far as tools required, I *think* the self-extracting crank might just require a regular 10mm hex key, and those four circular holes are to locate a pin spanner if you ever needed to remove the outer cap. That said I haven't worked with these cranks so could be totally wrong on that! JP?

This thread is also worth a read

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/how-to-install-remove-hollowgram-k22101-self-extracting-bolts-on-2021-and-newer-cranks.1213196/


Awesome thanks guys will let you know how I make out once it comes in!
And a 110mm spider

https://www.ebay.com/itm/195745674096?hash=item2d9359f370:g:2V4AAOSwV~hkU~Q0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Ab2A7bdx6Z0fLLuHqrLG%2B4DI5LFBKFTETEQ31m34LP3txUEy5cmiGlb9KJcyUysGa7%2BM8ntTI7C6jalefsvx8UIUq0mPRH7fuVTXWecnLNEmOHO6jiH1I1ohd2b5H5oosG1Mn4WcX2rmwJEocQ9Y6wgx%2FooGsXD48OCCNXOB5XFy5dO4a9ASf8Hl3MLcu%2BjeYpw%2F7927jf0Y2GseXzJ6eaH%2BUlbmv4BQJCOpki86LpvOmdRH3ZJp%2Fn4GTXybuR44hMUVUso4HA1Gpqh3Iqctx1y4b%2FsJpnP%2FZCwa1n6s%2FhevpXLEprgYuzOwXzffRmBxA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8TssIjxYg

lockring

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175968155200?hash=item28f884f640:g:TJMAAOSw3UplLZRM&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwDFS48e2tqfCJfYEIBOKrZ50yW3MaqJREltRDdaKdcwFOejj%2BIr2XUz3GakDSDlO6qJs6aNUx2XZlLkru5K3IONUQTCxEn4jPWuMzwfd1lVkgbNH9X7Om3422tLKNWAjG2xMEe9U87fO0MgCJayosrlXPt9qZX3mMVXwWwJZaXDRB%2B4dQWQlex6omHyB4KgO1qqS75oPFpYa84zt2DFy%2F0T8he7qz%2F9f2mWcR0AJTyetZSrv9GGipRVoINMDc3rrLA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6z_w4jxYg

I have a lockring tool as well.

I think the SRAM crank is self-extracting.  the Hollowgram not.
Rolled the dice and... so close. Same spline pattern, same mounting bolt... different orientation for SRAM.






"there are no standards" 

i do hope you put it all together, should be fun!
That is outrageous
The logical excuse is "we want to guarantee compatibility and safety" but you know if they all picked a standard...

Ordered a new/takeoff Cannondale "SISL2" One crankset for dirt cheap and the splines all match up so... odds are that I'll have yet another incompatible crankset laying around lol 🤘🤘
Okay! Yes the cannondale crankset works perfect with the hollowgram arm! But! Realized that I don't have the spindle spacers. I ordered a set and hopefully after replacing the bb bearings (curiously the drive side is granola crunchy, non drive is smooth as silk) I'll be all set. And now I get to repurpose the GXP stages for the Ritchey.
Okay, the deed is done and I'm so done with it. There's definitely some small size discrepancies so the spacers didn't quite add up perfectly. I ended up using an adjustable spacer from my SRAM crankset along with an odd combo and the crankset is now centered in the bottom bracket. Something funky is happening with the chainline though and seems like the 50x11 is pretty extreme. On top of that, my home mechanic skills just aren't up to snuff and the replacement bearing I pressed into frame seems way too snug and basically notchy. I may give in and take it to a shop and have them do everything over professionally.

Bikes are fun.

###

On another note: Anyone have a shop/mechanic recommendation who is good with steel frames? Looking to cold set/repair a steel fork which must have been bent in a crash and is misaligned. I can try at home, but see incompetencies with BB30 installation above.
I'd always be willing to trust Murray at Ride Brooklyn, if he's still there.
Dave, 
I would give King Kog a look.
+ 1 in king kog or sun & air 
@David Yang can you release some of the tension on bb bearing? — for the chain line, is there a way to move the ring outside (big ring style) or add some longer bolts w spacers?
Because it came up yesterday @ the championships, I'm posting here as well.

It's a good idea to have at least one spare derailleur hanger for your bike in your possession.  John Malcolmson suggested keeping it in your saddle bag.  I think having it in a drawer/box at home is sufficient.

While most hangers can be straightened, it typically takes either a specialized tool or good eye and a long wrench to fix.  Having a spare means you can get your bike working post ride and not having to wait for a shop to open or the time it takes to get it via online shopping.  
mugwump said:
Because it came up yesterday @ the championships, I'm posting here as well.

It's a good idea to have at least one spare derailleur hanger for your bike in your possession.  John Malcolmson suggested keeping it in your saddle bag.  I think having it in a drawer/box at home is sufficient.

While most hangers can be straightened, it typically takes either a specialized tool or good eye and a long wrench to fix.  Having a spare means you can get your bike working post ride and not having to wait for a shop to open or the time it takes to get it via online shopping.  
https://derailleurhanger.com/
Updates: Took the steel bike to King Kog and the tall British guy got the fork sorted out. I'm not sure if it is perfect but the wheel is centered and it rides well. I knew I was in the right shop when I saw nearly all the bikes on the floor were steel frames and they had loads of vintage stuff hanging on the walls.

The CAAD10 BB30 on the trainer fells "fine" though I know the bearings are notchy. Will be taking this one to Ride Brooklyn. I still think the chain line from big to small is extreme but it seems acceptable looking at the angles on the 1x setup I've got going on the other bikes.

Tubeless Tire test.

At last year's holiday party, I bought a pair of Specialized Turbo T2/T5 Tubeless Tires in 26mm width.  The tires measure 27mm on my rims.  

 here's the tire: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/s-works-turbo-t2t5/p/217965?color=350323-217965

The rear tire went on February 18 and stayed on til august 20.  I retired it because the casing was showing through, and I flatted with the casing showing, though I doubt that was the cause of the flat.  I had to install a tube to get home, and decided rather than put in new goo, I'd just pull the tire.

The front tire was intalled March 23 and came off after the ride today, December 21.  The tread is still there, and the little wear dots are still present. I wouldn't be surprised if I could get another month or two out of the front tire.

I think I might have had two flats each over this period.  The flats were, as it is with all tubeless flats, really annoying.  I think the tires actually performed pretty well overall.  and even the rear tire lasted a pretty long time for what is ostensibly a race tire.  I don't like having to pump up the tires every ride, but it's not terrible.  I think it's something like 5k miles on the rear and 7k on the front, with the front still having some life left.

However, I'm flying to California with my bike Saturday and I don't want to bring all the tools necessary to take care of tubeless flats--no Airshot, definitely no CO2, no goo.  That strikes me as too much complexity to travel with.  I'd rather fly with tubed tires, two spare tubes, and a patch kit.  Anyone travel with tubeless tires?  What stuff do you bring with you?    

BTW, the new tires are Vittoria Rubino Pro III with Graphene.  Tan sidewalls.  25mm width.  They measure a bit over 27mm wide on my 21mm internal width rims (they measure a teeny bit wider than the 26mm Specialized).  They were a bit under the advertised 250mm weight at 246g and 247g.  Weirdly, there's an arrow on the sidewall suggesting a directional tread.  Really liking the look of the tan sidewalls.

https://vittoria.com/products/rubino-pro-tube-type?variant=46921120448800 
Basically bring the same when traveling with tubeless.

You are doing the best for travel which is to bring new tires, which should avoid most issues, save bad luck. But basically if you get a flat during the trip, just put a tube in.

So no CO2, but a small hand pump and a larger hand pump, plus extra tubes. Leave around 15~18 psi on the tires, so they don't get off the rim while on the place. Maybe put a little extra sealant before packing the bike. 

I don't, but a plug thingie might not hurt, altho likely it will not work ;)