Another way to look at building it up is that you can spread the cost out over time.  Buy the frame one month, wheels another, etc.  If you really hunt, you can get good deals on new or take offs.

Some quick thoughts

• Greg's idea above is good.
• Greg's idea also works if you buy a stock bicycle, you can replace parts over time. Most of us do.
• If you buy a stock bike, buy from a bike shop, and specifically from Ride Brooklyn, our sponsor, who gives us a great discount on Giant bikes
• As Dave stated, when you buy from a shop, replacing some fit related parts, notably: cranks, stems, & bars almost always can be done for free or at a deep discount. 
• Be sure to discuss it ahead of time, even if labor is free, tip the mechanic, more if the bar/stem is integrated
• Using a tool like Velofit, which we also get a discount for via Basecamp, can tell you which stock bike model and size could be a good fit for you. 
• While smaller cranks are getting more popular, 165 mm cranks are still unusual and  hard to find, so plan accordingly. Starting with a 170 and eventually changing it could be a way to go. 
• Whenever I get a new bike, I generally expect I will change the stem, saddle and maybe the bars. Offerings like Canyon are specially frustrating, as they can't swap the integrated bar/stem. Some other competitors do. But again, this is why you buy from Ride Brooklyn.

All the bike build videos I've seen that are with bikes with integrated bars show them routing the cables and such during the build.  If you know up front what cockpit you want it shouldn't be any extra to have the bike built up with your desired cockpit.

For stock bikes with integrated bars, they will be set and built from the factory, which is why Canyon doesn't allow for swaps.

GregHoge said:

Another way to look at building it up is that you can spread the cost out over time.  Buy the frame one month, wheels another, etc.  If you really hunt, you can get good deals on new or take offs.

This is key.

Also obviously you'll need tools and some basic skills to put everything together. You can probably borrow a lot of tools but buying for long term maintenance usually makes a lot of sense. And even if you think you've got everything bike standards are weird and you'll have to buy very specific ones for your new bike with new standards so that adds to the overall cost.

Does anyone use and love a particular stem/outfront computer mount?

I've been using KOM mounts. they are easy to find on amazon, and relatively cheap, on occasion if a crash for example, they might break, so easy to replace. Easy too to move them from Wahoo to Garmin. They don't center the computer. I imagine there are much better options out there.

In the past I've used some after market ones, but right now I've just got the stock garmin that came with the device.

I bought a used Wahoo Kickr (v3. 2017) from Rob Mullen a few years back. I have it set up for quick release. I am playing around with myvelofit to get feedback on my bike fit and wanted to get my thru axle bikes (cx and mountain) on there. I don't have the thru axle adapters and Wahoo seems to be out of stock. Anyone have some extras lying around I can buy?

I have an extra set.

Another reason this club is awesome.

Thanks Jules, I'll message you

David Yang said:

Does anyone use and love a particular stem/outfront computer mount?

I tested out a first-generation K-Edge for my Garmin 500 years ago.  I really liked it--it sat low, it was adjustable fore-aft, so I moved it as close as I could to the stem plate.  But, it was all metal, which probably meant it would eventually wear out the Garmin's plastic.

When I switched to the Elemnt Bolt, I went with the Wahoo outfront mount.  It works, it puts the Bolt in a good position, low and centered, though the clamp is a but chunkier than I'd like.

I am now using the K-Edge mount.  I like that it now has a plastic interface.  It is similarly low as the Wahoo and has a seamless look to it in front. I also like that the clamp is slimmer on the bars.  I set an alert on eBay and waited until one showed up at the price I wanted.

JP funny you should mention K Edge - before they updated to the plastic interface, the one I had with the metal tabs indeed messed up the plastic tabs on my Garmin. At battenkill when my group hit the first woods/mud/dirt hill section the garmin rattled right off the k edge because the tabs were so worn. Some months later someone riding the course found it and emailed the club because I was smart enough to sharpie "kissena yang" on it. They mailed it back to me and it was still working after a charge.

David Yang said:

JP funny you should mention K Edge - before they updated to the plastic interface, the one I had with the metal tabs indeed messed up the plastic tabs on my Garmin. At battenkill when my group hit the first woods/mud/dirt hill section the garmin rattled right off the k edge because the tabs were so worn. Some months later someone riding the course found it and emailed the club because I was smart enough to sharpie "kissena yang" on it. They mailed it back to me and it was still working after a charge.

Ever since then I write "Kissena Yang" on all my bike computers.

Gravel/MTN bike convergence is upon us... https://velo.outsideonline.com/gravel/gravel-gear/ks-announce-40mm-travel-suspension-fork-for-gravel-bikes/

Sooner or later these hybrid gravel/suspension bikes are going to evolve into full squish frames and someone will have the brilliant idea of adding wide flat bars thus completing the seventh seal and the singularity will be upon us.

@David Yang I've had a K-Edge mount which worked well with my Edge 520. Then I upgraded to the Edge 540 which is larger and didn't work great with the K-Edge (... it held the computer too close to the handlebars.) I've switched to the stock Garmin mount which is a little ugly but the right proportions.  So anyhoo just check you get the right length mount for whatever computer you have / plan to use.

I’m using the our front mount that came with my Hammerhead Karoo 2 bike computer. I’d really like to get one of those sleek aero semi integrated looking mounts but I haven’t seen any stock or after market ones for the Karoo and I don’t want to bother with a garmin adapter 

After stopping for a coke at a gas station on 9W outside of Nyack, my derailleur was acting a bit funky.  I was thinking I should stop and check it.  But then, my derailleur had a better idea.  It snapped at the mounting bolt.  

Now I'm trying to figure out how to turn two broken Campy Record 11 speed rear derailleurs into one working derailleur.  Swapping the mounting bolt appears to be off the table possibly because the bolt-in-bolt setup seems frozen into place on the older broken derailleur.  Swapping the cage is also problemmatic as the spring in the newer broken derailleur isn't coming out.  Yet.  

Wondering if anyone has experience with this.  Or knows of any NYC shop (or any shop I guess) that has Campy small parts.

Here's the broken mounting bolt.  Older (and perhaps newer) iterations of Campy rear derailleurs use a circlip to hold this bolt to the derailleur body.  This seems to have two T25 bolts that screw into each other.  I'm thinking the smaller bolt might be titanium and that there is some galvanic corrosion that occurred.


Heare are the two derailleurs.  The lower left is the newly broken one, and that lower left spring probably should be able to come out.  But isn't budging.  IF it can, I'll stick it in the opening you see on the derailleur on the right.  

How'd you get home?

Someone out on the inter webs must have solved this and posted a solution, no?

Jules said:

How'd you get home?

Marc Bertucco was right behind me.  He had a phone and immediately called his wife.  She seemed to be happy to come get us at the Runcible Spoon.  I walked down the hill to get there, and had time for a hot chocolate.  Not very crowded there when it's below 40f.

If Marc hadn't been there or if she hadn't been in it would have been a bit tougher.

I have a friend in Nyack, not close enough that I know his address, but I would have called home to get his number.  And perhaps get a ride to the nearest train station
If that failed, I have a friend in Pearl River.  I would have called her.
If that failed, maybe call Glenn in Piermont?
If that failed, I could have removed the rear derailleur and shortened the chain and ridden home, probably slowly, with a single-speed.  I carry a chain tool and spare master link

JP, I still have the 10s Centaur groupo including the RD you're welcome to. I know campy is quirky but maybe the pull ratio can still work on 11s?

David Yang said:

JP, I still have the 10s Centaur groupo including the RD you're welcome to. I know campy is quirky but maybe the pull ratio can still work on 11s?

I'm still interested.

So i'm rebuilding my old Venge with mechanical 105 as a fun littler project. I got all the cables and hoses run yesterday pretty easily and figured I could wrap up the build within another hour or two, then realized Specialized did Specialized things and the hole in the frame for the rear derailleur cable needs a specific plastic insert, not just the standard Shimano cap on the cable outer. Went searching for the manual online. Not on Specialized's website. Do a google search and find the manual for the last generation of the Venge. Keep searching and eventually find the right manual and the part number I needed. The plastic insert ended up being $15 and will take anywhere from 7-14 days to arrive.

Bikes are pain

Speaking of tubeless! (said nobody since 2017) for the luddites like me with old gear looking for a weekend project...

I've successfully converted a few old clincher wheel sets to tubeless using Scotch film strapping tape - the 24mm size covered rim beds from wall to wall that are internally 17-19mm wide. Works great and $20 gets you 55m of the stuff so should last quite a few wheels.

Rehook Tyre Gliders are magical and can fit the most insanely tight tire/rim combos. I'm a believer and keeping one in the saddle bag from now on.

Certain tubeless tires like the Conti GP5k AS TLR hold air like champs even without any sealant. The few other tubeless specific tires I've tried (Ritchey WCS Megabite, Pirelli Gravel M, and Vittoria Corsa Pro 2s) did not hold air for more than a day or two without sealant while the Contis have held the same PSI for a week and a 20min ride around the neighborhood as a test. 

Muc-Off valve stems seated and sealed up nicely where "standard" Stan's ones that came in a tubeless kit did not. Plus they are anodized in fun colors, bonus.

I'm going to try for a few other sets - worst case scenario I have to run tubes which costs me the 30 mins of prep time. Best case scenario, I've added extra pit wheels for CX races!

New Giant TCRs announced today:
NEW Giant TCR Advanced SL: details, ride impressions, inside the factory
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydrtNGznpnc

On their website with the "new" flag, looks competitively priced compare to similarly specs from other brands. Most noticeable change are the hidden cables.  

Nice!  Hidden cables were expected given the Propel and Defy.  Honestly, I couldn't care less about the other stuff.  I'm skeptical of those aero gains as well.  You won't feel 2 watts and it was likely only due to hiding the cables.

Over the past few releases, it feels like the TCR has steadily fallen behind competitors like the SuperSix Evo, Scott Addict RC, Tarmac, Emonda, etc. and I was hoping this one would help close some of that gap a bit, but it generally seems like a very marginal update of very few marginal gains