What length stem?

Illya is famous for putting people on the shortest stems you've even seen. It got to the point where anytime I saw someone with a tiny stem I'd ask if Redbeard did their fit.

Honestly a second opinion will be a lot cheaper than a new frame.

Also, a few weeks/months of stretching is a lot cheaper than a new frame

Blake

in response to your question, I’ll talk to Pete about setting up another bike buying window. Anyone who is on the market should reach out to me on Slack so we have an idea of potential interest. 

Patrick, I did do myvelofit. I should do it again, I think I paid for a year when I signed up… ironically they told me to go for a longer stem back then, this was in February. I didn’t know that it suggests other bikes, that’s a great shout. 

Another resource is geometrygeeks.bike  The free search is by bike model, but the paid search let's you search by frame measurements.  I think it's like $5 for a month, so you can just sign up for 1 month at a time when you're in the market for a new bike.

BlakeFoster said:

Patrick, I did do myvelofit. I should do it again, I think I paid for a year when I signed up… ironically they told me to go for a longer stem back then, this was in February. I didn’t know that it suggests other bikes, that’s a great shout. 

Will cue it up this week. I’ll write a report for this group when I’m done 🤠 

@Mark Taylor the canyon integrated stem is 100mm on the medium size. 

Got it , but that T piece is also available in a 70mm 
And increasing in 10mm increments , a medium canyon should be plenty adaptable 
please reach out to Acme for a second opinion , I know it’s a lot of money , but as Jules said , cheaper than a new bike 

This doesn’t look like someone over stretched 
IMHO
@mugwump take on this 

It’s also worth mentioning that if you want to go fast, aerodynamics are king. You just have to be low, even if you make less power doing it.
#ymmv

I tried finding a few photos/vids from LA training camp and your fit doesn't look wildly out of norm - maybe a little straight armed in the shots I have, which might be from fatigue? I mean we're all backseat speculating here on the forum as enthusiasts so obviously you should review the final recommendation with the professional. I'd ask (again?) if stuff like seat post, cranks, stem & bar swaps are feasible first and then move on to finding a whole new, possibly custom, bike.

Unless you have some very unusual proportions or range of movement limitations a fitter who says "you need a new bike" should raise some red flags, imho.

GregHoge said:

Another resource is geometrygeeks.bike  The free search is by bike model, but the paid search lets you search by frame measurements.  I think it's like $5 for a month, so you can just sign up for 1 month at a time when you're in the market for a new bike.

Excellent shout, thank you

I do appreciate all the crowd sourced feedback (was my hope, so truly thanks). I’ll share the geo when I get it… Jules I agree, it did raise a flag. Also $450 to not make any adjustments to my current bike? He didn’t realize my bars weren’t as narrow as they could be, too. I was a bit surprised in the moment, but he assured me we recap with the measurements. He also didn’t take video, and I didn’t think/know to ask him too. Rookie move… 

Mark Taylor said:

https://www.canyon.com/en-us/gear/components/contact-points/handlebars-and-stems/canyon-pace-t-bar/9102266.html?dwvar_9102266_pv_vorbaulaenge=70 mm

These are the aero bars , have a bit of flair, but would get you narrower at the hoods

Width: 350 – 400 mm

https://www.canyon.com/en-us/gear/components/contact-points/handlebars-and-stems/canyon-pace-aero-drops/10014134.html

Only the CP0018 integrated bars are
compatible with my frame  

I’m getting pretty frustrated with how gross my chainring gets using even high quality lube, especially how just glancing my white socks against the chainring ruins those socks. I’m considering moving to wax. Does anyone have any strong opinions on wax chains? Am I missing a way to keep my lubed chain cleaner?

Everybody I know who uses it swears by it

I've been waxing for years at this point.  It lives up to the hype.  After starting with Squirt, then trying to make my own, I landed on Silca's wax system which they've been refining the last few years.  The only downside is that it doesn't last as long, but it's become habit for me to drip wax on my chain after just about every ride.

DavidVibert said:

I’m getting pretty frustrated with how gross my chainring gets using even high quality lube, especially how just glancing my white socks against the chainring ruins those socks. I’m considering moving to wax. Does anyone have any strong opinions on wax chains? Am I missing a way to keep my lubed chain cleaner?

Black socks

@DavidVibert

Lots of opinions.  oil-based lubes, even the thinnest, are always messier than PTFE or wax-based lubes.  The cleanest oil-based I've worked with is Boeshield.  In terms of PTFE, I like Rock n Roll Absolute Gold.    

Wax is certainly the cleanest, but takes more work.

For the past several years, I've been both waxing chains and then using a wax-based lube in between waxings.  Right now, in the non-racing months, I use Squirt between waxing.  In the racing months, I use Silca.

In terms of waxing, while the various fancy bike-company formulations are probably faster than pure paraffin, paraffin is cheap and easy to work with, and the pricy formulations are only marginally faster--there's a bigger jump between wax and non-wax, than wax and wax with additives.  I bought a small brick for $5 probably 12 years ago, and maybe four years ago, I bought my second, which I think was around $9.  

I even made a video on how to wax a chain.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tv4dMOwAP7w

DavidVibert said:

I’m getting pretty frustrated with how gross my chainring gets using even high quality lube, especially how just glancing my white socks against the chainring ruins those socks. I’m considering moving to wax. Does anyone have any strong opinions on wax chains? Am I missing a way to keep my lubed chain cleaner?

I've recently switched to Ceramic speed UFO drip, pretty happy with it, seems like it's a good option if you don't want to use the hotwax technique, I use their chain degreaser along with it, my socks are still white 

I'd forgotten this excellent video. One step suggested by (I think) Kissena Alum Adam Naguib was to follow the ultrasonic water cleaning with immersion in isopropyl alcohol to drive all the water out from inside. His day job is trying to cure cancer, so I'm inclined to think that's probably a good idea

PS I couldn't find it but he did run a cycling blog called "Kensington Cycling Club" (yes, he was honoring his roots) where among other things he detailed his quest to ride 300 watts for 100 miles solo. Not even joking.

Jules said:

he detailed his quest to ride 300 watts for 100 miles solo. Not even joking.

My eyes are bleeding just reading this!

Pretty sure Adam once declared he's not above ordinary and said people just needed to pedal harder lol. He is on another level

+1 for T9 Boeshield which definitely keeps things cleaner than most wet lubes but reapplication intervals is on the shorter end of the scale.

I just caved and ordered a cheap crockpot, ultrasonic cleaner and Silca wax. RIP my free time.

Thank you for all the points and advice! A lot to consider! 

Dave the cheapest route is JPs method above - looks like a block of good paraffin wax is under $10, and a very nice larger ultrasonic cleaner is around $50 and small ones are $30ish new. Only other thing to invest in is maybe a connex link - $15. I've had bad luck reusing the sram quick links - snapped one during an easy charity ride.

The only thing that seems mysterious to me is cleaning protocols before adding emulsified drip wax to top off. Silca guidance says you just need  to wipe down with a rag, but I'd think the dust and dirt that wormed into the inner rollers would get trapped with the drip and after the wax dries? And they explicitly say don't wash the chain with soap when you wash your bike.

I'm sure I'm overthinking but in really gross weather Silca says to just use oil and then strip the entire chain again when you get home which seems like a giant penalty for riding in the rain? Wax seems perfect for cross or muddy gravel since the grossness wouldn't get mixed in like with chain oil, but this seems kinda onerous.

If waxed correctly not a lot of dust and dirt should get into the inner rollers (that's kinda the point, wax takes up that space)

The place where wax is less recommended is wet muddy cross or gravel. Oil works better here, as it repeals water and wax does not. The frequent cleaning of cross bikes also makes oil easier and faster to maintain.

I've heard some recommend multiple chains... so if one gets wet, you change it, and redo the wax on the wet one, etc... but I have never met anyone that has that kinda of time.

David Yang said:

Pretty sure Adam once declared he's not above ordinary and said people just needed to pedal harder lol. He is on another level

He's not super human. We trained about the same volume for a few years and iir I finished ahead of him most of the time. He moved to CA and rode 20 hours a week for almost 10 years without a winter lull before he did that. No kids, no wife, no cellphone, not even a home computer. World and riding were his life.

To me the big lesson is how powerful consistent high volume is when you stack it year on year.