@eloy Mapdec Cycle Works

Is it ok to do this with carbon? 

JohnMalcolmson said:

Is it ok to do this with carbon? 

Are (aluminum) disc brake rims less robust than rim brake rims because they don't need to double as braking surfaces?

I've bent 3 rims riding "gravel" this year (Rasputitsa and Crossbay Roubaix) on my new to me Ritchey Swiss Cross with disc brakes. Rasputitsa may be an extreme case since I was bombing down some really rocky hills, but Crossbay Roubaix maybe only the first section was kind of rough and everything else was very mellow gravel, dirt, grass or sand.

Rims bent are Ritchey WCS 2024 edition and Stan's Crest Mk4.

Perhaps I need to be more careful riding, but I've never bent a rim on my canti rim brake bike at Cunningham or even at two previous trips to Rasputitsa. I've flatted hard, broken spokes, had them go wildly out of true but never bent a rim.

Owner/wheelbuilder of my local MTB focused shop says they're cool to ride on as long as they hold air, but never a happy feeling when your shiny new gear gets bunged up this much.

So yeah, am I just riding it wrong or are disc brake rims actually more delicate than rim brake equivalents?

My guess is just stupid bad luck. My DT Swiss R470 (their utilitarian aluminum rim) needs a new bearing, a few spokes have been replaced and they've come un-true but they've held up pretty well despite abusing them pretty consistently

@David Yang

I guess it depends on the design.  Many rotor-disc only rims have shorter sidewalls than a rim-disc, which needs ot ahve sidewalls that are not only thicker but taller.  My guess is that the Ritchey and Stans rims have shorter sidewalls, which, in itself is lighter.  I don't know if they made them thinner because the rims dont need to deal with the force of being squeezed by brake pads.

I would think it comes down to the rim & spoke count more than the disks... I knackered a few rim brake wheels riding gravel. Speaking of which, the views were pretty good here yesterday, although it might be time for an updated jersey

Calling on the KCC hive mind. When I'm out of the saddle and pushing pretty hard through full sprint effort, I get a creak. There's no creak during hard seated efforts, so I'm thinking it's from the headset/handlebar. I've check all the bolts and tightened everything to spec, and my headset feels smooth with no play. Does anyone have any ideas where I should look next? I'm going slightly crazy trying to figure this out

A friend of mine went crazy from this as well and then figured out his shoes were making the sound. 

I didn't even think of my cleats. Easy and pretty inexpensive place to look next. Thanks for the idea!

spokes ?

Check the seat post and BB for good measure. I've experienced the opposite (creaking when seated), but when in doubt check everything that moves.

Also, to start, try the efforts off the bike, barefoot, and see if anything creaks.

@David Yang Those were my first to instincts and everything is greased and tightened to spec so I think those are okay at this point

@Mark Taylor I'll give some lube on the crossovers a shot

@eloy can confirm, everything creaks and cracks off the bike all the time lol

@Matt Budofsky

You could also put a little PTFE lube on your cleats and pedals.  drip it on, wipe across the surfaces and contact points and let dry.  

Check your bottle cages.

That is the worst generative AI rendering. They somehow managed to add in a 6th finger without any hands.

Matt. 
Check your helmet cage, it may be creaking when you get out of the saddle.

I had a similar issue when I got out of the saddle, thought it was my bottom bracket, but turned out my back wheel was slightly rubbing on too-tight brake pads.

I stopped into Piermont yesterday to see if they saw anything obvious and the most they noticed was that my free hub was a touch dry so I regreased that today before my ride and no dice still creaking. Out of desperation (and going slightly crazy from the creak) when I got home I took my bottom bracket out, cleaned, regreased, reinstalled and wouldn't you know it, no more creak. The old grease I cleaned out was slightly gritty (the cups are metal and the grit was non-metallic so no worries there) so that was likely the culprit

Matt Budofsky said:

I stopped into Piermont yesterday to see if they saw anything obvious and the most they noticed was that my free hub was a touch dry so I regreased that today before my ride and no dice still creaking. Out of desperation (and going slightly crazy from the creak) when I got home I took my bottom bracket out, cleaned, regreased, reinstalled and wouldn't you know it, no more creak. The old grease I cleaned out was slightly gritty (the cups are metal and the grit was non-metallic so no worries there) so that was likely the culprit

https://forum-archive.kissenacycling.com/discussion/87-p256.html#Comment_123025

Glad you found it and fixed it!! -- I bet it wasn't even that gritty, just the mere act of removing and reinstalling probably did it.

I'll match Dave's post:
https://forum-archive.kissenacycling.com/discussion/87-p234.html#Comment_115697

You can add "rim brakes are just fine there was no reason to switch" to the bonfire.

Disc brakes are undeniably better at stopping in the wet. Dry braking? Eh, (alloy) rim brakes work totally fine.

Road tubeless though, don't get me started.

Luckily it's a T47A bottom bracket so it's as simple as unscrewing it/re-screwing it. Obviously that would be too easy so of course, the drive side has a different standard than the non-drive side and you need two BB tools to take out both sides -__-

Love the creativity here, NFW would I trust a fdm print under a trainer though…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C84n0GVA5jY/?igsh=ajd5MWp2YWIxbmIz

David Yang said:

Disc brakes are undeniably better at stopping in the wet. Dry braking? Eh, (alloy) rim brakes work totally fine.

Road tubeless though, don't get me started.

Also , good luck getting 30mm tires on a rim brake set up